So most of my hobby wrenching has been on late model front wheel drive car, I've never really dealt with front A arm suspension, and I've been sleeping under my Shoe while figuring out the proper way to remove the coil springs. I know I could just dive in and do it, but I want to be able to do it right the first time and not break anything. Thanks in advance. David
Borrow a spring compressor tool from one of the auto parts stores. I have pulled springs by using a jack on the lower a-arm and disconnecting everything, then lowering it. I wouldn't recommend it if you want to keep things in your body unbroken.
Thanks for the insight on the coil, but I am also looking for the steps to get the coil out for example do I just need to lower the lower a arm any tricks to taking the coil out without removing alot of components Thanks
Moog used to offer this clip shaped like a "C". It was about 1.5" wide, 1/2" thick steel and maybe 6" long. We would hook this up on the inside of the spring (between as many coils as it would grab) while it was compressed (jack under the lower a-arm). Once the jack was let down, the spring would curve and the spring safely came out. To get the clip out, the spring had to be compressed. Bob
How did you find this on youtube? I searched youtube and I searched google for youtube and got a lot of stuff unrelated to 1950 Ford coil springs
<table id="post6557011" class="tborder" align="center" border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="thead" style="font-weight:normal; border: 1px solid #e5e5e5; border-right: 0px"> 05-16-2011, 06:50 PM </td> <td class="thead" style="font-weight:normal; border: 1px solid #e5e5e5; border-left: 0px" align="right"> #184 </td> </tr> <tr valign="top"> <td class="alt2" style="border: 1px solid #e5e5e5; border-top: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" width="175"> olosipu FNG Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Utah Posts: 25 </td> <td class="alt1" id="td_post_6557011" style="border-right: 1px solid #e5e5e5"> Re: CHEAP and Great Alternative Coil Springs '49 thru '59 Ford and Merc <hr style="color:#e5e5e5; background-color:#e5e5e5" size="1"> For safety's sake, do I need a spring compressor when replacing the original front coil springs on my 1950 ford? I read the green bible which says nothing about a spring compressor, so can I assume that when I lower the lower A-arm with a jack, that the spring fully decompresses? Any significant chance of the spring jumping out under pressure? </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="alt2" style="border: 1px solid #e5e5e5; border-top: 0px"> </td> <td class="alt1" style="border: 1px solid #e5e5e5; border-left: 0px; border-top: 0px" align="right"> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table id="post6557209" class="tborder" align="center" border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr> <td class="thead" style="font-weight:normal; border: 1px solid #e5e5e5; border-right: 0px"> 05-16-2011, 07:36 PM </td> <td class="thead" style="font-weight:normal; border: 1px solid #e5e5e5; border-left: 0px" align="right"> #185 </td> </tr> <tr valign="top"> <td class="alt2" style="border: 1px solid #e5e5e5; border-top: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" width="175"> rafael Grenade Inspector Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Moody AFB Posts: 193 </td> <td class="alt1" id="td_post_6557209" style="border-right: 1px solid #e5e5e5"> Re: CHEAP and Great Alternative Coil Springs '49 thru '59 Ford and Merc <hr style="color:#e5e5e5; background-color:#e5e5e5" size="1"> nah you'll be fine... just put the car on jack stands and place the jack under it and slowly release the pressure. </td></tr></tbody></table>
I've done Merc and Ford coil springs and never needed a compressor or chains or anything else. The springs aren't "pre-loaded" like they are in some cars. The lower control arms can drop enough to release the spring. The key is to jack the front of the car high enough so the LCA can drop far enough down. Jack it up and put your jackstands uner the frame rails. Make sure car is as high or higher than the lower control arm length. Pull tires. Put a jack under LCA and slightly compress spring (just 1/4" or so to take some weight). Remove sway bar mounts. Unbolt big lower spindle bolt and remove bolt completely. Lower jack slowly until spring falls out. Edit: Forgot to mention shock absorber removal, which you have to do before jacking LCA.
The proper procedure is as Mike51Merc states: but there have been accidents when car is on stands and spring tension is increased by jacking the lower A frame pan with a floor jack. Best solution is to place jackstands under the frame rails just behind the front 'A' pillars. Also place jackstands under the REAR bumper; this way, the car is stabilized when jacking the springs to a compressed state. (you are attempting to lift all the car's weight, rather than 'see-sawing' at the rear axle centerline) I don't need to say that the floor jack should be rolled in from the sides, so it rolls with the direction of the hinging lower control arm.
http://youtu.be/Rj0CvTqODuk Do you need the same advice? Why did you search for it? Did you read my post 'a basic coil spring removal clip' will give him a visual understanding of what lies ahead.
Get yourself a 2' piece of 3/8's all thread. Weld a 4" long cross bar on one end to make a T. Remove the shock absorber. Insert the all thread up from the bottom, where you just removed the shock, through the top hat. Add a washer, then a 3/8 nut on the top. Snug. Follow the earlier instructions on this thread for using jack stands and a jack under the A-arm. The all thread will stop the spring from popping out. Just back off the top nut on the all thread and the bottom A-arm will release slowly until any existing pressure on the spring is gone.
Just did it. You don't need the spring compressor, but it's not a bad idea to run a chain loosely through the spring and chain it to the frame. Just in case. Let the lower a-arm down slowly and you should have no problems. Tom
This video clip doesn't help. This guy compressed the spring and removed the entire LCA which is unnecessary on Ford suspensions.
http://youtu.be/c1akqSJE0ss Again, 'basic' coil spring removal. How does it not help? It again gives a visual of what takes place.
I've used many different methods to remove coil springs and if there's not enough threads left with a removal tool a spring will have to be unsprung at some point anyway. Better chained to the car and using a long crowbar from a safe distance than clamped in a bench vise at groin level. That's only in the case it doesn't simply fall right out, of course.
You have to disconnect the upright (or spindle), then you drop the lower controll arm as low as possible, you will probably have to disconnect the brake line if you disconnect the upright at the top. Then take the spring compressor and squash the spring as much as it takes to remove it.
It doesn't help because: 1. The Ford has no balljoints 2. The Ford doesn't require the "hinge" side of A-arm to be touched. 3. The Ford's springs don't have to be compressed. An lastly, it doesn't help because it doesn't show the way to do it on a Ford and confuses the viewer with unnecessary issues.
Like most have said, just use a jack. Here is a pic from when I first dropped out my stock coils. I was paranoid at first, but once I dropped it I realized it was a cake walk. With your Shoe on jack stands, remove the wheel, support the a-arm with a hydraulic jack, remove the shock, then remove the lower a-arm bolt and support the spindle and drum assembly, then SLOWLY lower the a-arm down. When you put drop springs back in it will be even easier since they are shorter. Good luck. Here's a pic:
The best method (as stated in the shop manual) is to remove the sway bar and shocks, use a wheeled floor jack from the side and placed under the spring cup, remove the 4 lower arm-to-frame bolts, and lower the arm. The spring will come out safely and without cables, all-thread or a compressor, as the spindle/king pin assembly will keep the spring inboard.
Oooh... I forgot about the sway bar. I removed mine the same time I removed the coils to install a beefier sway bar. But removing the OEM sway bar is pretty straight forward.
I have to disagree with removing the "hinge" side with the 4 bolts. If you do that, then the LCA is only held by the spindle, which is too wobbly to control, especially when reinstalling the new spring by jacking it back up. If you disconnect on the spindle side, the LCA is held in a stable position.
[/QUOTE] Sorry for this, but your jack stands made the hair on the back of my neck stand up. You should turn them 90 degrees and put them behind the firewall on the rails.
Mike, I've removed several springs from my '51 and never had any control problems using a 3-ton floor jack. A little movement with the handle easily re-positions the LCA back to the frame, with no wobble.
I've done it both ways. The first time I followed the manual. I thought it was a bit hard to jack up the LCA (which is on an angle) with a floor jack that was parallel to the floor. Once you have spring compression fighting you, it's almost impossible to line up the 4 bolt holes without letting the jack back down and starting over.
Sorry for this, but your jack stands made the hair on the back of my neck stand up. You should turn them 90 degrees and put them behind the firewall on the rails.[/QUOTE] Whoa! You can't see them, but there are a second set of jack stands under the frame behind the firewall. The front stands were just overkill/back up in case the coils ejected. Fear not. I'm pretty safe.
Whoa! You can't see them, but there are a second set of jack stands under the frame behind the firewall. The front stands were just overkill/back up in case the coils ejected. Fear not. I'm pretty safe.[/QUOTE] Very good, and too many assumptions are flying about. How's it feel doing your 1st coil spring removal?
I got the body off the frame thn tryd to take out the coil springs. was alil hard cause of no body wght to help hold the frame down. Lil scary...any advice on putn the new areostar coil springs in??
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