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Projects Giant speedster project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by yonahrr, Apr 25, 2010.

  1. CoolHand
    Joined: Aug 31, 2007
    Posts: 1,929

    CoolHand
    Alliance Vendor

    Speedway sells 11/16" fine thread nuts.

    Or, you can source a castleated version off the top of a Moog K727 ball joint, or any early Ford tie rod end.

    Finding a die might be a bit expensive, but you could always single point the threads before you bend the rod.
     
  2. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 316

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    Jerry,
    I've been watching this build for awhile now....love it!
    McMaster-Carr has 11/16 x 24 stainless nuts for $17 each ( 9562A70Q) and a die for 11/16 x 24 runs $75 (26005A17)

    Good luck,
    Bruce
     
  3. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    17 bucks a nut!?

    I think I forgot to say this is a low budget build. No offense, but 5/8 nuts are 25 cents. I wasn't happy with my first front fender support. I kinda jumped the gun. ( What does that mean anyway?) So I cut a new rod then turned it down the rod in the lathe and threaded it to 5/8. Luckily I had some oversized 5/8 nuts I ordered for something. I drilled out one of the nuts and welded it in place as a stop and turned it down too. After some precise measuring I fired up the torch and made some precise bends. This fender support came out so good I made another like it for the other side.

    Jerry
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Jack Innes
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 178

    Jack Innes
    Member


    jump the gun
    to do something too soon, especially without thinking carefully about it Usage notes: If someone running in a race jumps the gun, they start running before the gun has been fired to start the race.
     
  5. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,958

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    something basket shaped with lacework like on Mississippi riverboats.
     
  6. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 316

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    Jerry,
    I was thinking the same thing when I found them! But thought maybe you were dead set on the 11/16 size. I think your end result is the best solution to the issue.

    (slipping back into the peanut gallery)
    CBB
     
  7. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,726

    George
    Member

    Had an oil pan drain plug(missing) in that size, welded a nut inside to solve the oddball bolt size problem.
     
  8. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Jumped the gun. False start. I should have known. I was thinking something from the civil war. "Damn the torpedoes, men, but don't jump the gun!" Turns out nothing so dramatic.

    Today I still wasn't happy with the fender height of 45.75". It looked too high. Who knew this fender thing would be such a pain? I cut the supports in half, shortened some and added to others. I'm finally satisfied--for now. 44.5" It's a little thing but aesthetically it seems to make all the difference. Weird! Tomorrow I make up one final support then begin banging out the pieces between the supports and the fenders. What do you call them? Fender support to fender connective piece?
     
  9. Aprons? Splash shields? Wings? (for the Brits) ;)
     
  10. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,659

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Just paint it with cheap enamel paint and wait 20 or 30 years. No kidding. Use straight enamel like they used in 1910. Rustoleum or possibly yacht paint. Maintain it or don't maintain it just as you please. It will develop its natural patina in good time. Don't try to fake it who needs another cheesy looking fake.
     
  11. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,672

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Fender support mounting brackets?

    My $.02 worth on paint...Single stage, epoxy enamel. No clear. No faux patina.
     
  12. Dapostman
    Joined: Apr 24, 2011
    Posts: 294

    Dapostman
    Member

    I agree, a good oil based paint will look right. It's slow to apply, but it will not look "plasticy".
     
  13. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    "Don't try to fake it who needs another cheesy looking fake."

    You haven't seen the the Mercer Raceabout at Hershey. I assure you , it's no cheesey looking fake. :)

    Jerry
     
  14. leaving some parts in a natural state just well oiled down after installing and let it become "good quality steel rust"
     
  15. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    I'm afraid the speedster will have so much natural shop rot on it by the time it's done there will be no need of faux patina. Plus my painting ability is marginal therefore it will look like it was restored thirty years ago. Hey, I made the final support and got started smoothing up the welds on the other fender supports. I need to the roll the bumps out of the fenders before I make up the fender to support pieces. For this I need someone to help hold the fenders as I guide them through the E. wheel as they are so long. Any volunteers?

    Jerry
     
  16. I might be able to pop up after Brad's swap next Saturday?
     
  17. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Is that on the 6th? I plan to be there. Cool! Come on by.

    Today I began by running the rear fenders through the E wheel but found the wheel wasn't high enough for the full curve of the fenders. I had to put the thing up on blocks. Next I smoothed up the front fenders by hanging them from wires and running them through the E wheel. After that, Neil my buddy from Scotland came by and helped me with the curved part. About an hour later I think I'd about smoothed all the sheet metal I could without making it worse. A little metal prep and primer and I'm ready for fender to fender support pieces. Unfortunately (or furtunately money wise) I rented out the unit I had with the spray booth so I guess I'll be priming the fenders outside. No matter, as Neil says: "Let yer wind blow free where ere ye be for holdin it in'll be the death of ye."

    Jerry
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Is it too late to vote "no fenders ' oops add smily :)

    gogogogogogo
     
  19. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Round peg in a square hole

    Filing round holes square--no fun. There is a certain Zen to it, though. Whatever that means. They probably make some broach or punch that turns a round hole square in nothing flat but all I have is a Chinese file. I calculated 34 holes for all the fender supports. I'm sure this is what apprentices are for. BTW, I looked into step bolts. The heads are really big--1 1/4 for 1/4 inch bolts. Lots of variation in diameter too. So I decided to turn down common carriage bolts to an acceptable size. What the hell, I've got the time. It's faster than making a round hole square. ps. I ordered square nuts for under the fenders.

    Jerry
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 4, 2012
  20. Fishtail8
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 366

    Fishtail8
    Member

  21. nice ... leave a couple of these bolts out and replace with eye bolts so squirrels can be tied tightly in place
     
  22. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Support Report:
    26 holes squared leaving only 8 left--4 each on the left and right lower front fender supports. The front fenders are pretty stiff without the lower supports so I'm contemplating leaving them out. The big problem now is where to prime the fenders, brackets and supports. Cold weather is setting in and I have nowhere to paint except outside. Mmmm. Pictures coming.

    Jerry
     
  23. gogogogo yer doing just fine pay no attention to the guy behind the curtain
     
  24. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Getting ready for primer

    After welding up some last minute seams and what not, I started the paint prep on the fenders. I'm not a big fan of priming and body work and painting. It's seems to make a lot of dust and you never quite know when to stop. You just sort of give up after a while and paint the damn thing! So I dribbled some metal prep into the bead around the edge of the fenders then sanded off the bits of rust here and there and popped a few tiny dimples out and on and on. When I got out my direct to metal primer I discovered I didn't have any more activator. I had activator for a lot of other kinds of paint and primer. So what is the big difference anyway? You have to be a chemist? I made a few test spots with various activators and primer. Maybe one of them will get hard overnight. Should I take a chance? Or drive to Gainesville in the morning and buy some new primer and activator? PS. Who needs a good rabbit? I'm afraid my son might eat him.

    Jerry
     

    Attached Files:

  25. Mmmm, rabbit is GOOD eating :)
     
  26. fur biscuit
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,831

    fur biscuit
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    stewed rabbit is rather tasty. :D
     
  27. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,310

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D BBQ`ed on the grille ain`t bad either.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  28. you could use one of them feet .... oops it's a pet ok picture of one foot
     
  29. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Checked my primer test spots. None of them got hard. Tomorrow I go to search for the correct activator or find some new primer. Alex went off with the Boy Scouts to camp in the Okeefenokee Swamp. I'll hide the rabbit before he gets back.
     
  30. Stewed!? Sacrilege!!!

    Marinated in buttermilk for 24 hours, then pan-seared and into the oven- makes one look at Flopsy, Mopsy, and Cottontail in a whole new light :)
     

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