I was back at it yesterday and today since the weather is cool again. I drilled the plates yesterday, locating the holes and then clamping and pinning while I drilled pilot holes. Then I drilled all the holes without the diff in. I pinned the top hole of each plate and clamped it to the pattern after a light dusting of sliver spay paint so I would know it was where it should be. After drilling the bottom three holes 3/8th inch I inserted old Rod bolts from the poly engine project as alignment dowels then with all three in the bottom three holes I drilled the last one at the top where the pin had been on each plate there by making sure all holes line up perfectly. The rod bolts make great pins for this type of work lining up parts as they have a tapered shoulder on them. I then put the diff with the shop wheels back in place and bolted the diff plates to the chassis plates. I measured and fitted till I was sure all was well working from the centre of the chassis at the rear to each axle housing flange. When both meaured 41 inches I leveled the diff with a piece of tubing and some wood blocks, rechecked and then tacked the plates to the diff fairly securely. I then removed all supports and here it is up on all four wheels for the frst time. It might seem like nothing but it is a big deal here. I know now it is a car, not a pile of tubing and so it willl get done. I even took a drivers view from under the temporary roll bar hoop. Jackstand occupies the space where the 318 Poly will sit. Senior dragster sits beside it showing the new rail its "competitors view". I poke way at stuff now. I make less mistakes that way and am always fresher. I work on these projects one or two hours but I always work on something anytime I go to the shop. That way I get done regardless but I dont get frustrated or tired or in a hurry but i am always making progress. If I need to think I switch to the engine or another project and give myself time to think. Tis amazing how problems sort themselves out with this method. It beats re-doing stuff. I have quit for the day and will double check everything tomorrow. Not in the mood for critical thinking now. Tomorrow is another day. Don
At cruisenight tonight it was "junk in your trunk night." Guy accross from me set out a Corvair steering box complete with shaft and coupler. $20 later it was mine. I had a Ford truck box for the rail but a Corvair will save a bit of weight and also is smaller. It is ok .It was from a pre 1962 Corvair :>) Don
Since the rail was designed originally to take a Jag six. I was concerned that I would have trouble fitting the 318 and trans. I did some minor mods to the design. removed all the bracketry from the trans and cut off one boss intended for 60s style kickdown linkage and it now fits with even a bit of wiggle room. The starter (which is always a hassle on a V8 Mopar rail ) sits ahead of the upright right out in the open and should be no trouble in looks, service or operation. The block is about 3/4" narrower then the trans bellhousing and the rails have enuf linear distance at that width I believe it will fit with no further mods. I will try it soon. My Roll bar bender guy just phoned . He has all my hoops done and the ones over and under the trans too so I can have a good solid foot box as well. $10 per bend, which is fine with me. Don
Hi Don one of my buddies at work keeps telling me about a short tailshaft houseing he has for a 727 says if I want I can have it, Is this someting you could use, if so I'll tell him I'll take it, Tim Jones
I would have to build a different chassis I think. This just works, However I discovered something building with full length trans and reasonable power. It keeps the front end down in a short wheel base car and I still get good bite even wth 10.5 slicks. I have no spare gold these days as I used to make my entire living from the stock markets for the last 15years. Hasnt been good the last three so i havent a dime to spare for extras. But that is ok. it is in te squeaky time creativity isat is best ou of pure necesity. Thanks for thinking of me though. I had considered shortening it beforei discovered it would work in this chassis as is. Two methods I know of are a 4WD trans which has a much shorter stub shaft to the transfer case or a 68 to 70s motorhome Loadflight trans which is SHORT!!!!! Don
Ah come on Don use the short shaft and put em in the air!!!!............. it raises your adrenalin level lookin kool so far Don...........
Been there done that. Been so high I smacked the tail of the rail on the pavement when I run the short 28 inch tires on a sprayed track. Mostly I like just a gentle lift and settle down about 10 to fifteen feet out. Like my Youtube. "Senior Dragsters Third Weelie" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RrGDPXOQtI&feature=plcp. That is for me an ideal leave. I am not as brave as you fellows anyway. I was working on it today. tacked a few in. May change one but I am thinking. Don
No Problem Don, I'll get it from him anyway just incase you decide to build a longer chassis, Tim Jones
today because we were rained out two of my pals came over and worked on the rail while i flogged a piece for one pals engine.They popped the block between the chassis, dumied up the heads and intake. Everything lines up. Might need a 1/2 wiggle or something but pretty good. Headers will just clear the frame rails about about 3/4" . Trans output lines up directly with the Diff driveshaft flange. Everything close but nothing tight. Good pals because I cant manhandle this stuff anymore. It is a great day when everyone wins. I am liking the basic look. Don
I was just back out there using my digital scale for a minute. It is incredibly motivating to see it sitting with an engine in it. Back at it tomorrow. Will be using my Unbender invention to tweak the roll bars. Also have to find a starter and try it on for size. If it fits good we are away. Don
Don, I always learn something from your posts, your axle splining method is great, I'm like you; sort of self-taught on machine tools, but some day if I get a mill I want to try that out. I'm eager to see how your Poly runs, I like those engines too!
Thanks for all the encouragement. Mike, I have no machinst skill in that department, I am an automotive machinist which is quite a different thing. This stuff is all trial and error. Self taught too. mostly because explaining to someone what you want takes longer then doing it yourself mistakes or errors included. TODAY, I made the trans crossmember, Removed a siezed bolt from the Corvair steering box (Probaby why it was so cheap) And I made the steering box mount. Don
I make some pics tomorrow but it is mounted low, the same as yours and will have the two U joints. Gotta source the Jonts. (probably Speedway) and find an old Steering arm to rework. Not much to see. I now need two Ujoints to complete two moderate angles and the Steering wheel will be in the right place. Box is as recieved. my apologies for its smutzig appearance but this is just a fitting and tacking. Don
I am joining the 318 Poly build with this thread so am not keeping too many going. I got the reground cam back today. 270 Duration at .050" .583 int lift and .556" exhaus,et lift. Cam despite the relativly huge grind compared to stock did not need undercutting anywhere. John said he removed .300" from the base circle when all was said and done. Cam is also Parkerized. Don
What's still needed to get the motor running? Looking good so far. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Don, I am using your electrolysis method on some Y-block heads, R-U-S-T-Y, they are still in the tank, but man this works, it started showing signs of cleaning less than 30 minutes last night!! Thanks for sharing!
That's great Mike. Raising the voltage to above 14V seem to help big time. I have been pleased with my success. I found it on the Nova Scotia Antique Tractor club site. Don
With the big airfield race behind me I am back at the new FED. I spent this afternoon and part of yesterday working on the roll bar. First I made a cardboard me from an old box. I made sure he fit the Sr Dragster first then installed him in the new FED and began final fit and cut of the roll bar. I have the back bar and the rear hoop in. I should have the front hoop done by tomorrow. Since I lay down a bit in this car the wind profile will be lower. Pics tomorrow. Don
So far. I ve been doing a bit of body mockup too, before I get anything fully welded. At this point I am liking it. Mrs D gave it the ok as well (said it was cute) but asked "Are you sure you can get in there?" Somehow I know she wasnt referring to my height. I think I can. I can get in the jeep and it is the same dimensions widthwise. Once I get the lower braces in I will scab up a seat and make sure before pushng on. The long cardboard box a.k.a. "Igor, The Magnificent" is exactly the same dimensions as my torso length. The bar conforms to the helmut rule for depth. (I checked it with my helmut.) I have to get some helmut bar steel next trip out. Don
It's shaping up, "Viva Igor", LOL, are you going to use the chromies or are they just for mock-up? You know whitewall Bruce slicks and chromies would look good! How's the weather?
The Chromies and whitewalls are on loan from Mike Sietsma so I can mock up and move it around. I did think the same though. Hard look to resist. The weather has been great till now. Going down to 34F tonite the TV says. This will be the first cold nite for where I am although a bit north of us they have had frost already overnite. This is our Thanksgiving , this weekend so not too unusual. I have one more thing to do on the Sr dragster before I put it to bed for winter. I will probably do it Monday (which is a holiday here ) I am having fun on the new FED build. Nice just pokin away at it. Don
Looks good Don, athough your gonna have to feed Igor more to fill out the cage ,He looks alittle thin sittin in there Tim Jones
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