Working on my 28 sedan using Keep It Clean harness Have generic keyed switch Positions marked Batt-red Acc-brn Ign-orange St-violet My question is where does the pink coil wire go that is in the teering column group go? I am using a ballast resistor and have it set up for points and this part should be ok Also have generic headlight switch Positions marked A B R H These really throw me ..what goes where? Thanks for help on this.
I already have everything done around that...what I am asking is about the ping wire at the ignition ....which terminal does it goto?
Ok. Now I see what you are saying. Does the coil wire go through the fuse panel and have a seperate fuse? If not, fuse that wire with an inline fuse. place the coil wire to where the orange wire is on your ignition switch. But cycle your key and be sure that when you turn the key ALL THE WAY to start, that the post you are using for the orange IGN wire, still has power. Otherwise you have to wire it so that it has constant power while the key is in the run AND start positions. otherwise you could have some long start times.
I'm not sure what your asking.... But you want your coil hot when key is in run position. That should be ignition terminal on the switch. On the starter there is an I terminal,that also provided power to the coil when cranking
Well it sounds like the pink coil wire gets attached to the ignition where the orange ignition wire is....two wires on one terminal?.....
Your harness should have (2) different pink wires, one that goes to the ing terminal on the switch, the other needs to go to one side of your ballast resistor, then to the + side of the coil. If you are running say a SBC, you will also need a start wire to the starter, and from the starter you would possibly want a wire from the switched side of the starter, with an in-line diode to the + side of the coil (to supply a full 12 volts to the starter when starting)...hope this makes sense... Tom
I am running points so I have run a pink coil wire from the harness to a ballast resistor. On the other terminal of the resistor I went to the posative side of the coil and also A wire from from that same spot to the starter. The alt is a one wire so I have run a red wire directly to the starter that is hot What I struggle with is the coil wire that is part of the steering column group. I think it goes to the Spot marked ignition?
You are pretty close here... you will need a diode in the wire that goes to the starter if you are using one of the later model starters... if you go to the switched side of the starter with power it will back-feed (if you have one of the old solenoids you may be OK) You do need the coil hot when the switch is in the run position. If in doubt, just use an ohm meter to determine which position that is on your switch. On mine I have bat, access, and ignition.. only (2) are hot in one position, (3) hot in the 2nd position...
Yes. Especially with a generic switch. The ign wire that is orange is for the fuse panel. Provides key on ONLY power to the harness. The same post can be used for the coil with no worry. But again, I would fuse that wire.
Their support sucks....Not like ez wire or painless. Its more about the guy on the tech line than the customer. I asked him about a balast resistor for points and he siad he knows nothing about it. Just HEI. Well thanks to him anyway. They have no schematic on line and one was not included just some scant info brochure.
like a fusable link or inline fuse? I think it goes back to the box already and should be already fused??? by the way thanks for the help everyone.
Your coil wire should be fused at the fuse box from the switch.. don't think you will need one from the switch to the ballast...at least I've never run one... I know I installed a maxi-fuse on the main power wire to the starter, and on the alternator to the starter (you could also use a fusible link). but no other maxi fuses or fusible links...
ok thanks team i now have the confidence to go out and finish it up. I will keep the fire extinguisher near by
Good luck dude... if you see an arc, and get a quick whiff of ozone, you know to hook it up different.... Tom
Double up the Brown and Orange on the Acc post and move the pink wire to the Ign post. Your red and purple wires are correct.
I know you are the wire king but the brown wire is labeled ign. Why then take it to the acc post? What will it do differently?
This is why I asked if the wire was already fused or not earlier. I am sure you will figure it out. And the fuse between the fuse panel and main lead, should already be there? At lease every kit I have installed did/ But either way, great advice.
I used their kit and everything you need to know is in their diagrams. Wired my car and fired it. Was simple and straight forward
Those switches don't really follow the same lingo that you or I use in regards to the wires we're hooking up to them. Your coil wire you want to stand alone on the IGN post with no other interference from other circuits. Where your Orange "Ignition Hot" wire and Brown Accessory wire are running just that, Accessories (as your smaller 12/14 circuit harnesses will only have the Orange Ign wire) such as your radio, heat and including components you only want on with your ignition switch such as electric fan, fuel pump, wipers (all wired to the orange Ign wire circuit). If you have a key on the column setup, then all of these are usually seperated with the Orange Ign wire and Brown Acc wire getting their own posts.
GM ignition switches pretty much haven't changed color wise (unless your talking about newer than 06) Pink is ignition, on with key and crank. Orange energizes everything associated with heating and cooling, on with key not during crank. Brown is usually audio and everything else. Yellow or Purple is starter. Two reds are battery, sometimes one has a white stripe.
Heres where a test light comes in handy and a couple of jumper wires. If I were a betting man Id say B is battery. I would bench test it first. Ground your testlight and run a hot lead to B. and operate the switch. When you pull out the switch to the first spot thats running/parking lights, you probably will have two power up. Pull it all the way out and the last should power up, that goes to your dimmer switch. Now on some of the 50s cars the front running/parking lights go out when you turn on the headlights so make sure you check for that. If B isn't your battery feed usually one of the terminals will look like its heavier duty than the rest thatwould be my next guess but on a bench with a test light eventually you'll figure it out.
The Jalopy Journal
