Chevy 235 Alternator Wiring

I'm looking to convert my truck a 53 chevy 3100 from generator to alternator. I got a Hitachi alternator in my shed that i would like to see if i can use it. The alternator fits perfect with original strap bracket from the generator. I have a good idea how to hook it up from research just my situation is different since im not sure what the output S, L, E, BATT mean. How do i wire it? Thanks in advance.

 

This should help: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=II-WP6sBCXU

I personally like the GM si alternators.

Godd luck, Todd

 

Won't help him figure out the wiring on the funky Japanese alternator, though...

I also suggest using a GM alternator, it makes life easy. They don't cost much

 

If I were to guess, I would say that S is sense, L is idiot lamp, E is excitation, and BATT is battree. But those are just guesses.

Google the Hitachi alternator using the model no. and go from there.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tractor-6-v...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4d0410f459

It doesn't get any easier than this. I have one on a 56/235 engine . They make them in several output ranges . One wire and forget about it.

 

The Alternator is just temporary while i get a gm one. I just thought i could use it since it fits ok. I plan of taking off the hitachi sticker when i install it on the 235. Also plan on throwing away my monitor since its made somewhere else.

 

yeah toss the HITACHI sticker & you'd be OK

 

With a tyical GM si alt. you connect 2 wires off the batt. connection, 1 short wire to the "S" on the alt. & 1 to the batt.

Try that on the HITACHI

 

If the hitachi has an internal regulator, then you can probably make it work once you figure out the wiring (hint: use google images to search for hitachi alternator wiring diagrams). If it requires an external regulator, you'd probably bet better off just going to a GM alternator now.

 

Need to know if it has a round 3 wire plug or 2 wire that looks like l l or T.

 

Looks like an L shape and has S L on the sides of each output. It is internally regulated.

 

google sez....









Probably just adds more confusion...which is why I suggest the GM alternator. At least we understand it.

 

Get a GM 10SI two wire alternator. I picked up a reman at O'Reilly's for $50 with a lifetime warranty. Wiring is super easy, I did a diagram in the following post:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=689017

FYI, your better with a two wire over a 1 wire. A 1 wire is internally excited and may not charge at low idle, a two wire is externally excited and will.[/FONT]

 

Thanks, Hussey your info really help out alot. The Hitachi is long gone i got a ac delco from local auto parts store and it went out as a core exchange. The alternator is already hooked up and running. Although i left the battery hooked up over night and today i tried to start the truck and battery was dead. Why is that happening?

 

I don't think there would be any parasitic drain from the alternator or anything you would have done to hook it up unless possibly your excite circuit is not keyed with the ignitinon, meaning it's alawys on.

Do you have an ammeter? If so, disconnect your battery and put it in series and see how much of a parasitic drain you have. Moder cars with computers can have quite a bit but an old car should have practially nothing. I would also double check light, (glove box, dome, possibly back-up) and the state of the battery.

Good luck!

 

Do i need a diode for the alternator? I did not install one. From what i read that is probably the problem. I hooked up the exciter on the accessory terminal of the ignition switch.

 

Either connected wrong. or bad alternator. been there.

 

Yes you need a diode in the exciter wire. Most of us who have swapped over to alternators have run into that one at some time or other.

Usually what happens though is the alternator feeds back to the ignition after you turn the engine off and the engine keeps on running. You might have the exciter wire tied into a hot all the time connection rather than a hot when the key is on connection. That would cause a drain with the engine off.

 

If you have an accessory terminal in your ignition switch and it is isolated from the ignition feed then you don't need a diode. If it IS NOT isolated from the ignition, then as stated, the excitor will feedback through the ignition switch to your coil and will not allow you to shut off your car. If your alternator is charging and your car will shut off then you don't need a diode.

As for the battery drain. Hook a test light to the negative (-) terminal of your battery and check for power on the red wire of the DA plug, this should alawys be lit if wired like mine. The yellow wire, the excitation wire, will only be lit with the key on. Make sure this isn't it with the key of. If this has power with the key off this would drain your battery.

 

Thanks, I figured out the problem. My truck has an aftermarket switch that has 3 positions for the key to move. I'm guessing its; on-off-run. In order for me to remove the key from the ignition the key needs to be in the "off" position which happens to be in the middle position. My battery was being drained because when i parked and turn off the truck i turn the key left to the "on" position. I confirmed this by leaving it overnight. Thanks again.