Exactly , 3" in reference to what ? Is that bumper to bumper or cl front axel to cl rear axle or what ? Ask 10 different people and you're going to get 10 different ideas on what reference points are correct. Yet you could measure the rake and be exact for every single one. I'm quite certain an angle finder used for pinion and caster angles would give a very close idea of the rake. Place it against the frame and or running boards or body line and read the gauge. Also changing the rake will change your caster and pinion angles. keep that in mind if your car started handling weird or developed a vibration after a suspension change
"I'm quite certain an angle finder used for pinion and caster angles would give a very close idea of the rake. Place it against the frame and or running boards or body line and read the gauge." Thanks. I wrote all that crap and what you wrote was what I meant.
Exactly. When i built my chassis, i set my front frame horns 8.5" off the ground at lower edge at the very front, then used an angle finder on the flat section where the body mounts to set 2 degrees of chassis angle. Then built legs to hold it off the ground and built everything to fit...I welded my front cross member in at an additional 5 degree's so the caster was a total of 7. Hope that all makes sense. haha I wrote 5 in my first post, but goofed and was thinking of my front crossmember. Tony
I was basically talking about the front and rear bumper when I said 2", 3" 6"..etc.......It's kinda like when we raced stock cars...drivers from the north would say the car was tight...we would say it was pushing....meant the same thing...it didn't want to turn.......I agree on degrees and inches...they'll both work...it was just an opinion and we know how those are............
Ok.............for all you technical guys...My 32 is 4 degrees checked off the bottom of the frame at the rear of the door and my 29 is 3.5 degrees checked sitting on the running board..........
Me toooooooo.........I love this 3 Window all black.........."THATS A HOT ROD"......only thing I don't like is the title is not in my name...hehehe
Now THIS is helpful..... "My 32 is 4 degrees checked off the bottom of the frame at the rear of the door and my 29 is 3.5 degrees checked sitting on the running board." ....and THIS is not! "So sick of this question/disscusion. Everyone as different tastes, every style as different looks. Build what you like or thinks looks cool."
My tub sits with 1 degree down rake on the top of the frame. 4 degrees down at the door tops and 5 degrees down on the hood top. 26" tire front; 31" tire back.
If you are doing a highboy build then I think the perfect rake is determined by the front section of the Duce frame. The bottom flange of the frame begins to slant up at approx the point where the frame revel starts. I think the perfect rake is to make this section of the frame parallel to the ground, and the lower the better. This is the rake on my 28 rpu on Duce rails and I think it looks perfect. Rex
To get the right stance, I have to admit that I've never used a protractor or angle finder. I just do my home work, take lots of notes, add a dash of this and a pinch of that, and when it's all together, I stand back and do about 20 laps around the vehicle looking at it from every angle and distance. Sometimes, you get it right on the first try. Other times, you keep tweaking it until you get it where you want it. In my opinion, stance can make or break a car, and it's essential to spend the extra time to get it right. There's nothing wrong with studying springs, axle drops, and tire heights. You have to, it's part of the process. When you finally get your ride at the stance you been envisioning in your head for the last 6 months, you'll know it.
I like mine. 155s up front with a 4"dropped axel and 255s out back, I think this gives a nice rubber rake and fills the rear fenders up real nice.
I agree that it's a "look and feel" thing, not a science. The talk of protractors and angles reminds me of the old thread where a guy was comparing the shape of a deuce grill shell to the shape of the Mona Lisa's face. When I'm working of a build I spend hours and hours just looking at from every angle. My painter calls it "mind f*cking" the car. Whatever you want to call it, it has to be part of the process. Stance is crucial to a cool car. Or you could just buy all the parts out a catalog and bolt them together and call it a hot rod. .
I guarantee you there is more math and science involved than you know. Visual proportions, ratios, lines of sight, measurements, are all expressed in mathematical notation. The human eye (some anyway) can be fooled by science - good and bad. Like a perfectly flat panel appears concave, slight crown appears straight or convex. I can go on and on as to why some things look better but I don't think it would help.
No, but there is another fresh Built 0range Model A Truck running around...it had Creme Color Wire Wheels when I last saw it..........SUPER, SUPER NICE TRUCK.....My truck is not that nice......but I drive it regular....some weeks I may work out of it doing Pinstripes or delivering small signs 3 -5 days...the last 3 weeks it has set in the shop......I haven't even cranked it up.....I've needed my regular truck here lately....It's one of those trucks you check the oil, fill it up with gas and drive anywhere.....and I do...............
I thought the one I saw did not have signs on the doors but the color is close. Yes, its a super nice truck.
The deuce chassis that come out of my shop are usually from 3-4 degrees depending on the tire size used.
On a fenderless car, the rear wheel arch basicly sets the rear height, well atleast for me, there should be the same amount of reveal around the whole tire regaurdless of diameter. I kind of like a heavy rake (jack rabbit like) it kind of makes the big little tire contrast more prounced. We all have diferent tastes and to quote a saying I have seen posted here a few times "how long is a rope" there is no PERFECT rake. Here are a few pics that I think are a good rake.
32 full fender truck , My rails should be here on monday. Im really thinking 4 degrees, but im gonna mock it up with the frtsection level and see what angle the rails are on. By jigging my rails at a angle I can set my frt c-member for my caster angle and "build in" my tire size on the table, Alot of frames get built level then get jacked up in rear and dumped up front ,then the the caster goes to shit and the car takes two lanes to go over 35mph. In spite of some of the grumpier member the input from you guys is really helping Thanks elroy
Heres a pic of the old roadster I built a couple years ago, and the coupe I finished this spring, I know the coupe is an A but its on a deuce frame. I always use 145/15 on the front aprrox. 24.5" tall and either 265/75/15 or 235/85/16 approx 29" tall I usually consider a 4 inch rake due to tire sizes, never bothered with a protractor, I just set them where I like it then adjust the springs until its another 1 inch lower. Its a little off topic but most aftermarket chassis seem to be jigged dead level and they place the front and rear cross members at 3 degrees, then everyone puts the cars on a rake and takes the front crossmember back to 0 degrees, which then puts everything in a bind, and this is why the aftermarket sellls so many adjustable perch bolts, if the frames were jigged with 4inches of rake it would make everything fit so much better, take a look at the front spring on just about any highboy and its very likely the spring is twisting against the shackels if the perch bolts are'nt adjustable. Not sure if any of this helps, just wanted to rant a bit!!!!
The Jalopy Journal
