Okay, so I got his low mileage (46,000) 351w 2 bbl out of a '78 Cougar. It's clean, ran good, and is bone stock. I want to use it in my '58 Ranch Wagon. How do I unsmog and undo all the detuning that Ford did to these great motors? What are the best improvements I could do WITHOUT tearing it all down to the block? What heads and intake/carb combo would be best? Cams? I want a budget build, otherwise I could just go buy the Edelbrock RPM Power Package. Any advice would be great.
Check the Edelbrock catalog. If I recall correctly, the later 351's have a different head than the earlier ones. Make sure it is not a 400M. An Edelbrock Performer combo should do the trick.
The 69 heads came with less restrictive ports, and there is a factory 4 bbl intake for it. The 5.0 intake will NOT fit,...the 351 W intake has 2 extra bolts for the first years of production, beginning in 69. I have a 600 cfm vacuum secondary Holley on mine, which is installed in my 72 F100, with the iron case C4. I'm also running the original 3.55:1 , 9" rear. The power steering pump has a different mount (driver side head) than the 5.0 ,... I hope this helps....That "W" is a torquey guy,..Mine has a stock cam, btw. 4TTRUK
For '77-up they switched to the same heads as the 302, small ports, big chambers. In '78 they went to the stamped pedestal rockers. Earlier 351W heads (not just the '69s) have bigger ports and valves, raise compression from 8.2 to 8.9, but need early pushrods as well, to work with the rail rockers. Aftermarket heads are a better choice if you're going to cam it up.
With 69-70 heads with flat top pistons you can get 290 hp with a 4 barrel. Do a little more to the heads you van get lots more.
For easy, simple power I'd plop a set of Patriot Performance aluminum heads on it with good 1.6:1 roller rockers. The I'd bolt down a Weiand Stealth with a 750 vacuum secondary. I'd splurge and slide a Crane 2020 roller cam and Crane linked roller lifters. It would work really well with an automatic and has a noticeable idle without being over the top. Lastly don't under estimate the value of a real good ignition and solid tune on the carb. Should give you an easy 400+ horsepower that runs on pump gas.
If you run stock heads with a good cam make sure you have some good valve springs. Dont ask me how I know.
A non-retarded timing set. Edelbrock Performer intake/carb & cam. Can't change heads w/o taking it to the block! As said the early heads have bigger ports & valves.
For that wagon, I would just install a cam designed for some low end grunt. Install the timing "straight-up" don't tear the whole engine apart if you said it"s "clean". Edelbrock performer is fine and a nice hot ignition. I would consider an MSD 6a box and MSD distrubuter. Maybe add a little gear also, to get the weight moving. I didn't see what gear ratio you had, but that could make a world of difference without killing fuel economy.
What George said: Advance the cam to non smog specs. A new timing chain is a good preventive measure anyway. Keep the PCV but remove the air pump and related plumbing. Recurve the distributor and run it off manifold vacumn. Run a compatibile performance coil. (consider shipping your dist off to Bubba in Indiana) Performer or Performer RPM intake with 600 CFM Edelbrock carb, headers. This would be about as much I would consider for a budget upgrade. If that is not enough performance, you can then spend more on cam, heads etc.
Did the 351 have retarded timing like the 351? I have never heard that before... If you do not want to remove the heads then you are left with intake, headers and maybe a cam. I like the performer rpm myself. Any header is going to be better than stock manifolds. The biggest cork is going to be the heads though. I would look for some used Dart iron heads. Any aftermarket head (other then the procomp garbage) are the best bang for the buck when it comes sbf's. The darts are usually cheapest that's why I suggest them.
Just wanted to add that the 351 has a taller deck height than a 302. So the intake has to be for a 351. For cheap thrills put in a RV cam, and add a 500 cfm 2bbl Holley, and dual exhausts.
On my '95 352-W "roller" block, I'm running a set T.F. "twisted wedge" heads that have stainless 2.02" and 1.600" valves.. I also have a .542" roller cam with Crane 1.72 roller rockers.. The new block was finished honed too 4.001" by "yours truely" to come up with an extra cubic inch... I'm figuring it puts out 460 er better hp...
352FE and the 351W and the 351C all run the same 3.50" stroke and 4.00" bore. For the 352FE Ford just rounded up (standard practice). For the 351W and Cleveland Ford didn't want to confuse buyers so they rounded down. No need to do a "special" bore prep to have a 352W.
This is great. Thanks a lot guys. You've given me a lot to go over, and hunt for. Here is a set I found advertised: "I have found some 1970 Small Block Ford 351Windsor Cylinder Heads . They came off a good running 351W but they have been sitting in my garage for about 2 years now They have 1.84 intake valves and 1.54 exhaust valves and they have 60.4cc combustion chamber volume.They have Not been modified or screwed with in any way." Do these sound like the Heads I should be looking for? The guy wants $200 bucks.
Having owned a couple 58' fords,one with 351 and another with 390 the latter was far cheaper to wring out H.P. I would start with intake,headers and maybe the distributer. One thing about wringing out the ponies is higher octane FUEL and be prepared to spend some money $$ for good it.
'97/2000 ford explorer heads with the 3 bars on the end. I own one set of '69, and two sets of '70 351 windsor heads, and the only way I would choose them over the explorer heads is if it HAD to look "period correct".
As your budget allows, go with intake (aluminum manifold and four barrel) and exhaust (duals and decent manifolds at the least, maybe headers), then cam and kit. After that, your best investment will be better (aftermarket) cylinder heads. Those smog-era motors often respond well to a timing chain without a ton of retard built in.
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