What oil are you using in your 235?

I have a 1957 Chevy 235 (no oil filter) in my T-bucket in which I've been using Shell Rotella T 15x40. I'd like to know what oil others are using (or have used) in their 235's. Please chime in!

 

SAE 30, just like the old days. They tell me with no filter and a motor with some miles on it you want to avoid detergent oils. But opinions vary.

 

30 wt - 40wt if its worn & even 50wt if it's worn & hot weather

 

There's a bunch of Threads on this basic topic, use search!

 

30 wt

 

20/50 Castrol

 

I use 15W40 Shell Rotella T3 in my 283 with a half container of zinc additive. Based on what I read on this forum and others; it seems to be the consensus for old non-rebuilt engines. I only use half of the zinc additive because new oils don't have enough zinc for old engines and too much zinc is bad.
I don't know much more on the tech side of it but this seemed to be everyone's suggestion.
I used to use Mobile 0W40 but was told that this is bad because it is synthetic and does not play nice with old engines. Hope this helps.

 

George, I did use the search function to look for answers to my question before posting and there's a thousand topics related to oil in engines. However, I could not find a thread specific to the Chevy 235 (without a filter). Perhaps you could direct me to that. Thanks for the help.

 

10w40 Mobile 1 and a bottle of ZDDPlus is what goes in my 235 in my 56 Chevy 210. Been running Mobile 1 in this car for 18+ years and over 20,000 miles with no issues.

 

Continued thanks to all for responding!

 

OK! Too many not using search & we see the same Qs repeatedly. Basicly an engine w/o an oil filter is fairly generic, unless it's something wierd like air cooled or something.

 

I've got a 216 w/a block mounted bypass filter. I use Hicks 20-50 Collector Car Oil. Good stuff and not too pricy. Its got plenty of ZDDP additive already in it, same amount at the Valvoline race stuff which I found, after doing a ton of research, to have the highest ZDDP content.

...they also sell a Hicks Muscle Car Oil, same stuff, same price, different label.


Also, check stovebolt.com for straight six info. There is a ton of info on the subject of oil over there.

 

todays ZDDP levels...internet bullshit??????
the ZDDP levels were reduced for several years to the now low level! you need to "restore" the level of ZDDP to where it was for MANY years to run in this engine

 

Curbfeeler , RESPECTFULLY, I'm curious as to what data you base your opinion on as it seems to fly in the face of what's generally accepted..

dave

 

THANK YOU !!!! Kinda like the ad that says " You can't put anything on the internet that isn't true-- where'd you hear that ?-- On the internet!!!" BWAAAAH !!!


dave

 

Hey, peace out all! I just wanted to see what oil others with 235's were using. I'll just stay with The Rotella T! LOL!!!

 

curbfeeler...do you feel better? wowe Zddps maybe would of helped those older stovebolts run over 50,000 miles, or maybe when the babbit rods were hanging out of the block

 

I hated it when that internet bull**** wiped the cam out on my bbc!

 

Now Curdfella knows what he's talking about. My old service manual for my 51 A.D. calls for 10-30 and it's to be adjusted according to the season. What Curbfeeler is saying is no B.S. It's straight fact and that's the way I like it.

 

Read the whole thing, were talking 235's not big blocks.

 

I used to run Valvolene racing 30 H D in my 1961 Bel Air .......... scrubba

 

Oil threads always leave me more confused after reading than before. So, we know that the most current service classification is SN, that zinc levels were dropped with SM, SL had the zinc...are the figures online somewhere for each of the classifications, maybe right on back to SA? That would tell us when zinc started being required to meet the latest specs, right?

A few weeks ago I bought a quart of super-cheap 30 weight at Dollar General, that real scary stuff that no-nothings put in their Hyundais. I bought it for a 25 year old push mower that burns as much oil as gas. Anyway, it has a very, very early classification and if it weren't so late I'd go dig the bottle out and see which one. Might be SA? Has a warning that says it doesn't meet specs beyond the 1920s or some such.

 

Wal-Mart has Accel brand 30W oil that is SA, pure oil, no additives. Says pre 1930 only. Guess not many people read the label....

 

This doesn't help much, but gives some timelines and more info:
http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm

 

Saw cheap off brand 10W-(30 or 40) SF oil @ either Family Dollar or Dollar General & Wal-Mart has Accel 10W-40 SF oil. SF should have enough zddp.

 

4qts 30 wt non-detergent + 1qt Lucas. My old panel ran the best pressure and has less clicks and clacks coming from the motor. That was a 216 engine. Had a 235 in a 59GMC that ran a little rough with low idle pressure when I brought it home. Put my recipe in it and ran strong till the day I sold it. Zero issues! Changed the oil every 1500 miles just to get greasy...

 

15/40 rotellia T in everything

 

30W Non-Detergent in all of my GM 6 cylinders to date. 292, 250, 235.

 

Whatever is the cheapest, I scavenge old oil from oil changes, I let it sit until the sediment falls to give me clean oil again.
I only have to ad about a new quart once a year.
Been doing this since my dad (Rip) taught me thirty years ago.

 

All of us running a flat tappet cam and lifter setup should check out Brad Penn products. Comes out of the old Kendall plant in Bradford PA and has high levels of zinc and phosphorus. Best of all it is affordable, and they have a locator for you. Anyone in New England that wants to try it just contact GH Berlin Lubes.