We've been bangin' this around on another thread here, so as not to hijack my question is..... On my 8ba, can I remove the filter and just plug the feed and return holes or do I need to have a return line in place to allow oil to circulate. In other words, am I going to deprive any internal components of lubrication by taking the filer out of the equation? I am going to tap and plug the fuel pump rod and flip the cam bearing as well if it makes any difference. On the other thread there is a bit of conflicting info floating about. I'd like to hear from some flathead experts before I trash 5G worth of machine work.
If you have 5 large into the motor, why wouldn't you run an oil filter? I mean a real one, not the old partial drip factory stuff... Flatman
Like I posted in the other thread, if it is the stock factory bypass filter then yes you can.(I have thousands of miles on one of mine like this) If the block has been modified for a full flow filter then no.
Let's face it, they are just plain ugly, especially the beehive ones. On this build I'm trying to keep it as clean as possible in the engine compartment. The chances of it getting many miles on it are pretty slim anyway. So I don't mind changing the oil frequently. I spend so much time in the shop there is virtually no set time anymore. The oil filter isn't going to do much with the stock passive system and a full flow with the massive hoses out the pan etc. would be pretty out of character. My build thread.... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7814107#post7814107
As stated if it is the stock bypass filter then you can put the external plug in the block and plug the small hole in the pan rail and you are good to go.There is no need to rotate the rear cam bearing it gives you nothing all that does is close off the pump rod hole.Fixing pump bushing is addressed as the rear cam bearing is not pressure fed.The fuel pump bushing there are a couple of ways some guys remove the bushing solder the .060" hole up and re install bushing.Some make a small alum stepped plug about 1" long press light fit and install it in the existing bushing,this is the easiest.The bushing is much harder than you think and tapping is not easy.As for the block if it has been prepared for a 95% oil filter with a spin on then the block has an "internal" plug that has been installed by whomever prepared it for filter modification.That plug was not there from the factory that plug must come out and then the block can be plugged as stated before.You need to confirm if someone has prepared the block for an external spin on filter before plugging any holes.Lots of info on this on the ford barn 100's have been done the 95% oil filter conversion is a good thing.I have done it myself it works well.Can give you diagram of where this plug is when modified. Tig
Thanks Tig. As I mentioned above I'm trying to get rid of the filter altogether. I don't anticipate a lot of road miles on this so I can live with the oil changes. I'm going to check out the 95% system on the Ford Barn and see if I can hide the filter somewhere. More than likely this car will be driven 1 time to Fall Wildwood next year and that's about it. I don't anticipate it being a Rolling Bones type cross country ride. The block has not been modified in any way, in fact I doubt if it was ever apart. This is the most mint, crack free block I have ever seen. It was Magnafluxed and we found absolutely nothing! I've never seen on this nice.
You can prepare the block for the 95% filter leave out the internal plug and drive on. I mention this to you now as the drill and tap procedure is required for the plumbing and grub screw in internal oil passage.Easy procedure when the engine is not assembled I can see from your build thread that you have more than enough talent to do the 95% filter mod with your eyes closed.Get it done. "LOL" Later Tig
Koz, I don't have a flatty here to scope out but I need to mention that your filter has an in and an out for the oil to flow through it. I would think that you are going to have to maintain that flow. Somewhere recently someone posted a flathead oiling diagram. Maybe a quick search would net a diagram for you to look at and that way instead of listening to my conjecture that is primarily made to help you think you can see what is going where. Just a thought for the nay sayers, lost of older motor didn't run oil filters, they got their oil changed on a regular basis and ran forever. My old race motor has the original bypass from an older motor bolted in the place where the bypass and filters went on the later egines. granted it is a race engine and probably got very few miles on it and even fewer miles between oil changes, but it is a '59 engine and the particular engine family wasn't built until '49. Just food for thought.
Stock by-pass filters were an accessory and to remove just plug the fool lines ,nothing else needs to be done.
Yes you can just remove and plug the lines. As far as the bushing, as noted I would make a plug to install and forget rotating the cam bearing. If you ever wanted to run a stock pump, this would simplify the changeover. There will be no loss of oil pressure even if you didn't block the hole, but you'd get a good bit of oil mist in the valley chamber.
I side with flatjack. No need to rotate the cam bearing or plug the fuel push rod hole. Leaving that bushing in there hurts nothing. Engine is an 8BA. I left the fuel push rod hole unplugged 10 years ago and has not affected the oil pressure at all. Here's the way I made sure the oil would not splash up and flood the valley. Just make the alum. rod long enough so the bottom piece snugs up against the fuel pump push rod hole. Also, I know you don't want to run a filter, but could you use a smaller canister filter off another type of engine, boat or car?
Very ingenius 19Fordy! I've researched some of the stuff on here and the Ford Barn and it seems the 95% filter system might be workable if I could tuck the filter back under the cowl and hard line to it. With the lines painted to match the black everything on the car they wouldn't be very noticable at all. Or I could just drill and plug like FlatJack says, I'll at least set the block up for it before it's cleaned for assembly and leave the plug out. If it looks like the oil is getting too skummy fast I could add the filter without tearing the engine to pieces. Thanks for the help. HAMB to the rescue again!
PB - the outlet just runs back to the oil pan - it doesn't lube anything after the filter so just plugging an unmodified engine is fine.
I just received my new Street Rodder in the mail and there is an excellent article on this very subject this month. It puts a whole new perspective on this subject. I have modified my block as per Tig Masters suggestion. I have drilled and tapped the block for the 95% solution and will use an external filter tucked down low for at least some decent, (read "better than most"), filtering.
With the full flow, (95%) filter and a PCV the inside of that engine will be as clean as the day it was assembled forever.
What purpose does the PVC have over a breather in keeping the engine clean? In short, is there any value to the PVC over the stock breather system?
Yes the PCV works much better than the road draft/breather. There are a few threads on the subject here and on the Ford Barn with a few different options on how to do it. I personally like the "hidden under the intake" set up.
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