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Tech: Cheap Ford Falcon Disc Brakes

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Drive Em, Mar 9, 2011.

  1. Drive Em
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,748

    Drive Em
    Member

    Now that I have your attention, yes they are cheap brakes, and they are big brakes, but they are not brakes with 13" rotors. Still interested, read on. What we have here is a simple, easy disc brake upgrade for you Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane, Ranchero, etc. It will work on any intermediate Ford V-8 drum brake spindle from about '63-'73. It uses two fabricated caliper brackets, two 11" Granada rotors, and here is the big part- two big GM calipers that have the 2 15/16" piston.

    -Why the big GM calipers?

    Unlike most disk brake swaps tha use the small GM metric calipers, this swap uses the same calipers that would have stopped a big Impala or even some 1/2 ton pickups. The "metric" calipers that alot of swaps use have a 2 1/2" piston, but the big GM calipers have a 2 15/16" piston that offers 12% more clamping force. The big calipers also use a brake pad with a bigger friction surface. The big GM calipers are also more rigid and will flex far less that the metric calipers.

    There are three ways to increase braking force:

    1. Increase rotor swept area via a larger diameter rotor.
    2. Increase piston diameter or number of pistons for more clamping force.
    3. Increase brake pad surface area.

    We have two of the three covered, and I can tell you that this same system was in use on the front of my IMCA dirt modified for several seasons and and it will out stop a metric caliper system.

    The rotors are common '75-'80 Ford Granada or Mercury Monarch. There were bought new at O'Reillys for $49.99 each:
    [​IMG]

    The calipers are '75 Impala items that were $14.99 each at O'Reilly's. The brake pads cost $14.99 and were bought at AutoZone:
    [​IMG]

    Here is a comparison between the metric and big GM brake pads, the metrics are on top:
    [​IMG]

    We also used six 2" long x 3/8"-24 fine thread grade 8 bolts with steel locknuts to hold the caliper brackets to the spindles. The brake caliper bolts come with the new calipers. Cost $3.24:
    [​IMG]

    Here are the 3/16" inverted flare to #4 adapter fittings that will allow the use of two 18" long stainless steel braided hoses. The adapter fitting connects to the stock brake line and fits in the stock bracket. Cost $9.99 a pair for the fittings and $9.99 a piece for the hoses:
    [​IMG]

    We also used two 7/16"-20 to #4 banjo fittings that will allow the hose to connect to the caliper. Cost $6.99 each:
    [​IMG]

    The brackets started out as common circle track weld on brackets that allow the big GM calipers on the rear ends of race cars. Cost $8.00 a piece:
    [​IMG]

    The bottom of the brackets are cut off, and two holes are drilled to allow it to bolt to the spindle:
    [​IMG]


    Six 3/4" O.D. x 7/8" long spacers are needed to space the brackets out. The spacers fit between the brackets and the spindle. A small "dog leg" brace is also needed to allow it to bolt to a third spindle hole:
    [​IMG]

    Everything is bolted to the spindle and the dog leg brace is welded to the main caliper bracket between the arrows. Sharp viewers will notice that the brackets are in front of the rotors. The calipers are flipped backwards and swapped side for side on this system. Meaning the left caliper is on the right side and the right caliper is on the left side:
    [​IMG]

    Here are the finished brackets:

    [​IMG]

    The drum, hub and backing plate will need to be removed:
    [​IMG]

    Clean any burrs off the spindle around the holes:
    [​IMG]

    The brackets are bolted on using the grade 8 bolts:
    [​IMG]

    The rotors are bolted on using new bearings and seals. I re-used the original '66 Falcon bearings as they were new and had zero miles on them:
    [​IMG]

    Here is a shot of the brackets bolted on from behind:
    [​IMG]

    The calipers are bolted on and the hoses are hooked up:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here is a break down for the cost:

    -Granada rotors-$49.99 x 2 = $99.98
    -Big GM calipers-$14.99 x 2 = $29.98
    -Brake pads- $14.99
    -Brake adapter fittings - $9.99
    -Caliper banjo fittings- $6.99 x 2 = $13.98
    -#4 stainless steel braided lines- $9.99 x 2 =$19.98
    -Brake caliper brackets- $8.00 x 2 = $16.00

    -Total cost = $208.14.

    I did machine my own spacers, and make the small dog leg brace, and that would add slightly to the cost to have someone do it for you, but it would still come in at far less than $300.00, and you end up with awesome stopping power. I also need to add that these calipers will clear 14" disc brake steel or aluminum wheels. I omitted the master cylinder installation as there are plenty of articles covering that sort of information, but I will tell you that I used a non power '75 Maverick M/C with a 15/16" bore and no proportioning valve of any kind. It stops awesome.


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    <!-- / sig --><!-- edit note --><HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff; COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=1>Last edited by F15Falcon; 12-02-2009 at 04:27 AM.
    <!-- / edit note -->
     
    jjucius likes this.
  2. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Cool! Good idea using the already available caliper brackets and modifying them.
     
  3. BCR
    Joined: Dec 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,265

    BCR
    Member

    Nice post. Very clearly written with nice photos.
     
  4. Del Swanson
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 708

    Del Swanson
    Member
    from Racine, WI


  5. Nice post, thanks.
     
  6. SLAMIT
    Joined: Sep 9, 2002
    Posts: 929

    SLAMIT
    Member

    Great post that couldn't have come at a better time. I have been on the hunt for a granada to rob parts from but like this much better. I have two questions though. First off is I have a 62 ranchero with a 6cyl. I don't think this will work with my spindlesis that correct. I think that the bearings are different? And also how did you figure out where to drill the holes in the bracket? I assume that you bolted on a rotor then bolted a caliper to the braket and slid it over the rotor and used a transfer punch to mark it? I would love to see some more of the details on this one.

    One more thing. Does the maverick m/c have an internal prop valve? I just would think that it would be needed in a front disc drum rear set up.

    Thanks again for a great post.
     
  7. Drive Em
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,748

    Drive Em
    Member

    I drilled the holes exactly like you described. The Mav M/C does not have an internal prop valve, it does have a residual valve for the rear only. The car stops great as is, and I do not believe that a prop valve is needed, but that is a whole different arguement.
     
  8. SLAMIT
    Joined: Sep 9, 2002
    Posts: 929

    SLAMIT
    Member

    Great thanks for the info. So does anyone have any idea I f I can use my 62 spindles or not. Or do I need to go with 63 and up?
     
  9. Deadbird
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,181

    Deadbird
    Member

    Cool post. How come this isn't listed in the Baileigh Tech Week threads? Did I miss it somehow?
     
  10. That is a great idea using the already made caliper brackets and adapting them. You could use this same basic method to adapt to many different applications, not just the 60's Fords.
     
  11. FalconMan
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,404

    FalconMan
    Member
    from Minnesota

    I like it ! I'll give it a try someday.
     
  12. Giovanni
    Joined: Jan 21, 2010
    Posts: 173

    Giovanni
    Member

    slamit, as i understand, you need the v8 spindles. I've done a bit of reading about this for my 62 wagon. The Spindles are smaller for the 4 lug. I believe the control arms, drag links, etc... are different for the v8 as well. I'm not sure of the interchangeability of mustang suspension parts, but there are some threads and other falcon specific forums that cover your questions in excruciating detail :)

    Very clear well documented tech!
     
  13. Al Napier
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 400

    Al Napier
    Member
    from Central CT

    You could really take full advantage of those big GM calipers and use D-153 pads instead of the D-52's also and have even more stopping power.

    Good job on the swap :)

    Al in TN
     
  14. awesome idea! where could you buy the caliper brackets? I really want to do this on my 65 falcon!
     
  15. I will have to keep this in mind when the time comes to do this on the wifies wagon
     
  16. Again some great information.
     
  17. Great tech post, thanks. I'm printing this one out to save. I found one can save even more $$, almost 1/2 ordering parts through Rock Auto. Keeps the budget down.
     
  18. What would one have to do to run this setup on a first generation falcon?
     
  19. Gromit
    Joined: Oct 13, 2011
    Posts: 726

    Gromit
    Member

    Nice! Thankyou so much for this. An adress, source or template (hint hint) for the caliper bracket would be amazing and I'd name any future children after you.
     
  20. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,187

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    Judging by the pictures, the brackets look thin to me. Remember, they were designed for rear brakes originally.
     
  21. You would first have to change out the 3 bolt ball joint upper & lower control arms for the later 4 bolt ones and the correct spindles for them.
     
  22. terryr
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 285

    terryr
    Member
    from earth

    The force goes in a circle, not sideways. It may vibrate, but 600 horsepower cars slide sideways in the dirt with those brackets.
     
  23. conmech
    Joined: Jun 18, 2012
    Posts: 7

    conmech
    Member

    As others have asked, I will do the same: Where can the brackets be purchased or where can we get a teplate? Got a blown 5.0 planned for my '63 1/2 Falcon wagon and I want it to stop. Thanx for an awesome write up and detailed pics. I'm hooked.
     
  24. "T'RANTULA"
    Joined: Aug 6, 2011
    Posts: 661

    "T'RANTULA"
    Member
    from Ohio

    That is pretty dang genious!!
     
  25. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,666

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    "The brackets started out as common circle track weld on brackets that allow the big GM calipers on the rear ends of race cars. Cost $8.00 a piece:"
    [​IMG]

    Well Shit Howdy!!!, @ 8 bucks a pop why make'm. Thanks for the tip. Great tec thread also
     
  26. conmech
    Joined: Jun 18, 2012
    Posts: 7

    conmech
    Member

  27. cage66
    Joined: Jun 4, 2010
    Posts: 117

    cage66
    Member
    from reno

    Awesome thread.
     
  28. conmech
    Joined: Jun 18, 2012
    Posts: 7

    conmech
    Member

    Where could I get the spacers and small dog leg pictured here?

    [​IMG]
     
  29. Rotorranch
    Joined: Nov 22, 2010
    Posts: 18

    Rotorranch
    Member

    He fabbed those himself according to the first post. ;)

    Rotor
     
  30. jazzbum
    Joined: Apr 5, 2005
    Posts: 598

    jazzbum
    Member

    looks pretty neat and tidy to me. cheap, too. how's pedal pressure with the new calipers/lines? did you use your existing m/c? any idea what the minimum wheel size would be to run this setup?
     

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