Just sold 89 jag front and rear suspension for $200, that's easy IN but any jag replacement parts are $$$$
That latter statement is "conventional wisdom" and, as is frequently the case, incorrect. Jag front end parts are not particularly expensive and IF in need of replacement, will last longer than the driver will likely own the vehicle. Ray
There's a thread on putting a Crown Victoria front suspension under F100 trucks look for it and measure your frame rail width, its simple, straightforward, cheap and a great upgrade. It may work for chevy trucks also.
I have conventionally bought some $$$$$ (from Jag) parts, I guess it depends on how fat your wallet is............LOL
Appreciate all of the info so far. Just so you all know, I my be cheap but I will spend the money to do the job right, and only once. In my carreer field, aircraft mechanic, I can not afford to do the job part way.I think that I might have to slow down and really do more research. My waffling may be more of a lack of knowledge. Thank you all for you input. I will let you all know what I decide. Mark
Around here you can pickup a jag for about $500 less engine/trans... then you could use both front and rear suspensions!
Correct ! AZbent check my Album ( workshop Jobs ) the black Chevy Pickup has Jag IFS and Jag IRS under it . PM me if you need any more specific pics . .
i agree with oldfart on this. especially with a wedding coming up, gather and stashing parts much cheaper than buying all at once. plus, if you change your mind, you can sell and recoup money to go in the other direction.
Mustang II is the only way to go. By the time you buy a dropped axle, disc brake kit, master cylinder & bracket, residual valves, king pins, spring bushings, tie rod ends etc, you will be at the cost of a MII and it will still ride & drive like an old truck, and there is no good power steering kit that works. The 73 & up Chevy 1/2 ton front ends are too wide and do not just bolt in. You still have to fab steering box & idler arm brackets, and they sit like a 4wd and the tires stick out past the fenders. The Pacer front end is very easy to install, but they are almost too wide as well and not very easy to find. All the rebuild parts are available though. Jag's ride and handle well, but you are starting out with a junk yard front end that will need totally rebuilt, and you have to do all the fab work to get it in there. You can scrounge the junk yards for an original MII, but you are in the same situation with worn out parts. Don't even think about a Camaro clip, way too much work. Save your money, do it right the first time and you will have a truck that drives, rides and handles very well.
Didnt read all of the posts. Check out aJeep Cherokee 2 wheel drive front axle. Tube straight axle, disc brake, front steer, ball joints and can be narrowed. I posted the measurements in a different thread. They are cheap, and with a c notch and setting over the springs you may get what you want. Just an idea.
Just because something came from the junkyard doesn't mean it needs a total rebuild. I bought a rearend a while back that had all new brakes and seals and even had the drums replaced on it for a whopping $50. The Jag is the cheap way to go. Buy a dead one for scrap money, take the suspension out of it, the seats and some other bits, scrap the shell, sell whatever you're not going to use, and you will probably be ahead money-wise. The suspension -unbolts- from the body. You'll need to fab upper shock mounts to make it work. Just try not to buy one that's a total piece of crap. The only big money part on them is if you need to put another rack on it - but everything can be had from most any parts store. No dubious quality big buck Mustang II kits, no old straight axle (hell, sell that too to a gasser guy). And a Jag has the Chevy wheel bolt pattern, disc brakes, power rack and pinion steering, and will lower the truck without any modifications.
Any thing else I should save from a Jag body? Not obvious stuff. Hell the "Prince of Darkness" makes sure Jags never run long enough to wear out. Seems like a better deal than a Pinto front end. I see nice un-wrecked XJ's all the time, for 5-600 dollars.
If you are going to set the jag IFS up on the stock Jag mounts you need to be sure to grab the first ( lower ) section of steering column . This is because it has a "slip" in it to allow for the movement of the subframe on its rubber mounts . .
Have you seen what this guy did? He used the front suspension from a early 50's Chevy car. http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=246915
I went with a M11 on my '40 pickup. I used to be more enthusiastic about going to the junk yard and pulling parts, but these days I don't really want to spend the time. If a good quality kit can be had for a similar amount of money the M11 would be my choice. I am not sure if you really need power steering, I didn't use it on my '40. If you use 15" wheels and a 16" steering wheel you would be fine. I haven't priced a M11 kit lately but I'm thinking $1200 - $ 1300. Also, I am not real fond of the power brakes and wish I had not used them.
I never thought about the the power brakes issue. I read on another forum that there relly is not a very good power steering kit out there. Can somebody please expound on that. If that is true then I will most likely go with an IFS.
Cheap: Put the axle over the spring. Done. Safe? ask a hundred people, get a hundred answers. Barris and Dean put a lot of front axles over the spring in order to lower early trucks. Not saying it is right or wrong, but it is cheap and doable.
You need to talk to HAMB member ElPolacko (Steve) in Phoenix. He makes a cross member that uses Dodge Dakota components. It is a truck suspension for trucks that are driven like trucks. A bit more expensive than your standard Mustang II derived unit but, for a truck, a quantum jump in suitability. http://www.industrialchassisinc.com Steve is upgrading his designs and you might be able to get him to use your truck as a test mule. Even if you don't buy from him you need to make the call.
I'm with Bib. I had Elpolacko put one of his Dakota cross members in my 48 Ford F1. I was able to pick up an entire front clip from an 87 Dakota pickup for $200 from a yard in Phoenix. On top of that you have Steve right there across town from you. Drive over and take a look at his work first hand and you'll be convinced. He'll also be able to tell you if your frame needs any work to straighten it out after 60 years on the road. I know that mine did. Look up his facebook page for the work he is doing right now on another Chevy frame for a Phoenix area client. Look at his picture files linked from his website and you'll find another Chevy frame he did for Dynacorn using his Dakota IFS. IFS is the only way to go for an old truck that will be a daily driver. Your arms and chest will thank you for it many times over. And your wife will be willing to ride with you. Mustang II can be had also; but, you have to get the geometry right. Steve will keep you straight on that. That's my $0.02 worth.
I put a dropped axle with disc brakes on my 48 Suburban first. It rode and stopped fine. A year later i changed it to a TCI MII set up. Other than adding a swaybar I would definately go with the MII set up. Save your pennys and do it right the first time noi matter which you go with.
All of these comments are what I was hoping for. Just like you said, I only want to do the job once. That is why I can"t decide. Talk is cheap, and I have more time than money right now. Thanks. Mark
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