I would have also gone with an old rebuilt truck axle on mine, but it's so narrow that there wasn't a donor I could use, and cutting/welding an I beam was not something I wanted. Hope you have better performance with the 292-.488" cam than I did. After a few months I got tired of it, and just changed mine out. Had problems with those aluminum heads I bought, and decided while it was down I went to the Isky 270 mega cam. 270 degree, .465" lift, and 108 LSA. Amazing cam that pulls hard now from right off idle to 6,000! Love the little details on your suspension! I went black on my front calipers also. Fancy colors don't look right on an old gasser theme!
I planning on a disc brake conversion at some point on my Plymouth, and I have found kits, but my thoughts were always to just buy the brackets from somewhere and source all the rotors, pads, calipers, hoses, bearings, etc. on my own so that I could control the quality and match the parts. I have found that not everyone wants to cough up all the bearing and rotor info if they make the P15 conversions, but I did find the info from one source. Do you think that would have saved you some head ache during install? Also I went back through the build up and I can't find a real good picture of the mounting for the master cylinder's. I would like to get that God forsaken 80's mastercylinder off my fire wall, but I'm not really too crazy about mounting it under the floor (just sounds like a PITA) but those MC's look nice and clean and I'd also like to switch my car to a stick so this could be the set up for me, I just wanted to look and see if I could fit it under my dash. I haven't purchased a new steering coulmn yet so I could plan around that! Keep up the good work!
Ok I went on the Southwest speed website and I now see the mounting points, I assume the brake pedal just clamps to both push rods and you plumb the brake lines individual with its prop valve in the rear line, and line lock to the front?
"a round tube in a square hole???" Isn't that how they tested us in kindergarten? I'm guessing you made that one work too.
Thanks plumbid...I do believe that scarebird does have a bracket(I think) and I have another vendor here on the HAMB saved somewhere.
I can't tell if you have Ford or Chevy spindles on your axle? I got the kit with Chevy spindles and had to grind the brackets just to allow them to mount on the spindle bosses. You'd think the Speedway knows the problem and would eventually make the supplier modify the brackets so they just bolted up. I talked to another guy who did a Speedway axle a year beffore me, and told me I'd have to grind them, now it's two years later and you're still having to modify your's. WTF? I used the hose thing all over my car to protect lines, and wiring. It works much better than grommets, or anything else!
Check out Olddaddy here on the HAMB or his website www.rustyhope.com I have his kit on my 48 Coupe. Was pretty much a bolt on once you drill out the three spindle mounting hole just slightly larger and tap them. I have a list of all the parts like rotors, calipers, hoses etc you need to purchase to finish the install.
On mine I also had to grind the steering arms to clear the calipers on both sides in addition to the brackets... not alot mind you, but it was needed..... I also used the Chev spindles. BTW with the kit if you got the MII rotors (like I did) you will need to change out the bearing races with those that are supplied )if you have the Chev spindles) the directions are pretty gray on this... You may know this already though Tom
Same here. Had to drive out the races and install the extras they sent. I was wondering why they were in the kit until I mocked it all up and ran out off thread on the spindles when I test fitted them. Then I figured they must need changing. I'm not sure why they installed the other races though? Why not just give us both pairs and let us install the right ones.
You mention you have the Ford kit but they do more than one Ford kit, some kits work with bolt on steering arms and some will not without modification. I sell an awful lot of the Speedway kits and I've never had to do grinding to get them to fit, just a thought.
LOL... Can't wait to see those guages...I'm about to make a panel and re-mount all of my guages when I go for the re-wire.
Your dashboard building will be a nice diversion.... Speaking of gauges, I would assume that somewhere on earth there is a 3-3/8" hole saw for my aftermarket speedometer....apparently in Central Wisconsin there are not any to be found....
Go to a decent tool store and ask for a Milwaukie 49-56-0187 That's their 3 3/8" hole saw. You'll need the arbor also, if you don't have one.
Thanks for the tip on the Milwaukee hole saw... went to Menards, Home depot, Ace and Hank today... no luck...Looks like more online shopping....sorry for pulling your thread off track... Tom
Bit late in responding but I had a Summit 1106 cam in the 327 Chevy in my old '48 Plymouth gasser and was pretty happy with it. Fairly mild build - 9.5:1 or thereabouts, stock camel hump heads and a tunnel ram with twin Carter AFBs. Had a stick behind it. Never got it down the strip but the guy who has it now has done a 13.01 and reckons it was spinning a lot off the line so should easy get into the 12s with better traction.
I guess I always kind of assumed they would be somewhere on the world wide web...I guess its got to run out of space some day! Any way!
So what I put one picture of a Giant statue pissing on a bunch of people and you decide to stop updating?
Just discovered an item at my local hardware store to dress up drag links and tie rods on the Speedway axles. Saw some 1" OD thinwall aluminum tubing that's the perfect inside diameter to slide over the rods. Just needed to cut to length and compress one end just slightly to make it snug. Took a few seconds with Mother's wheel polish and a rag to make it look like chrome! $19 for an 8' length.
Neat & tidy, You probably know this but those 7/8" OD trackrods have been known to flex and cause death wobble, I make all mine in 1" OD and never had a problem.
That is my hope....I'd really like to get it motoring yet this summer... I've never been to BTT50's and wanted to go this year, but was on a bike vacation last week (trip around the top of Lake Superior) and missed it.....I just happend to roll into Duluth on Tuesday just as the rains started and did not get out of town until Thursday with all the flooding.... So next year BTT50's for sure, even if the truck is not painted. Tom
No, I did not know that. I've got over 5500 miles on the car now, and not had any weird wobbles or suspension issues so far. Haven't had it much over 90 mph, but it was still smooth at that speed. But I do have an advantage over some larger vehicles with similar 7/8" rods. My drag link is 22" long, and my tie rod is only 33.5" long. So maybe the shorter length will not flex like the wider cars with their 48" tie rods.
Just thought i would let you guys know mate, Its odd but it doesn't happen on every car, Its only a few that seem to get the wobble, The reason i mentioned it was that i just had a guy come to me with a 32 that he had a death wobble on and he had tried everything several times over a couple of years to cure it, as he had tried all the normal stuff i suggested a 1" trackrod instead of the 7/8", instant fix and now its a perfect driver.
Yes the shorter length will stiffen it up some. The flex on the long trackrods is quite alarming if you clamp one end in the vice and try and flex the other.
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