Spraying Epoxy Primer, how clean is the shop

i checked with several sources and all confirmed like Pete that the Respirator was sufficient for the DP60LF. hope they were right because that it what i did.

 

The "Isos" are Isocyanate.

3. Hazards identification
Potential Health Effects:
Inhalation:
May cause nose and throat irritation. May cause nervous system depression, characterized by the following progressive steps: headache, dizziness, nausea, staggering
gait, confusion, unconsciousness. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. If this
product contains or is mixed with an isocyanate activator/hardener, the following health effects may apply: Exposure to isocyanates may cause respiratory sensitization.
This effect may be permanent. Symptoms include an asthma-like reaction with shortness of breath, wheezing, cough or permanent lung sensitization. This effect may be
delayed for several hours after exposure. Repeated overexposure to isocyanates may cause a decrease in lung function, which may be permanent. Individuals with lung
or breathing problems or prior reactions to isocyanates must not be exposed to vapors or spray mist of this product.

and yes, I know you stated that is not what you are shooting...yet. Just remember this when you get to the shiny stuff.

 

Ditto on the leaf blower

 

Sure can. This pic shows surfacer from last wkend. I sprayed epoxy yesterday morn before it got to 90*.

 

Epoxy primer flashes really fast its hard to get dust in it

 

Thanks Stevie,
the concern over Isocyanate's have been part of the reason it has taken me this long to get to painting. Final coat may need to go to a pro with "all the right stuff". This is something everyone needs to keep in mind, messing with Isocyanate's is not worth the risk.

 

Trust me, there are no isos in epoxy. It has it's own "bad" things. But a respirator is sufficient. If you watch TV, you see most shops spraying paints that contain isos with only a respirator. H m m m.. two things. First, it is arguable whether a respirator will filter isos. I have read where it does not. I have also read where, if it is new, it will. I caution with the "it will not". However, these professional paint booths have such good air flow that the painter has little contact with the isos in the air. So, they "MAY" be safe in their environment with a new mask; maybe. But if you are working with a make shift booth or such, YOU ARE NOT. Like most chemicals, each one of us is effected differently. Some people die from iso exposure, some become sick, some become sensitized and other "apparently" have no ill effects. But don't forget the long run. I know painters in their 50s that die, long term exposure. Be safe. You can purchase a fresh air respirator reasonably. It's worth it to stay safe.

 

good advice. thanks

 

Full face breathing air is actually nicer to use than a respirator in my opinion (although I have not painted a car using one). I have used both at work, and a positive pressure mask keeps your face cool and mask clear.

 

i'd say just take an air gun and spray the walls and floors. sweep it up. get the floors nice and wet to keep the dust/dirt down and spray. cover up anything you dont want over spray on though

 

well, I'm in the process of priming the whole car. here are a few shots of the way i set it up. the DP40LF seems to be doing okay, not real smooth, will try some more adjustments as i start on the main body.
got it clean, moped the floor, put plastic on the walls and had at it.
one more part to go, unfortiunalty it is a big one.
We will see how my plan to keep the car and air warm as the temp has been dropping all day and will be in the 20's in the morning.

 

great start, like the wagon. i have a couple questions though.
how warm is the shop? sounds way to cold to be painting. is the car and parts warm? heated garage?
just curiuos, my epoxy says metal should be at least 60 degrees. thinking of doing my car but my shop is not heated. wondering about keeping shop warm after i get finished. will keep watching. paint booth looks good.

 

If you use a more reactive epoxy, then letting the shop cool after spraying will be OK. But DP is not reactive ( one reason I don't us it ) . . so . . .

 

yes it is heated garage.
my concern is the amount of fresh air coming in.
i have my shop in the back of my garage. plan is to have some heat in the garage to help preheat the cold fresh air.
also plan to have the car at ~70 to 72 over night before i start spraying

 

My paint both is heated, but my shop is not. Therefore, I turn on the heat in the booth when I need it. From experience ( a lot ), no need to keep a car at 70 degrees for the night before to spray primer. I mean it's your heat money, not mine, but it isn't needed.

 

hi Pete,
how warm would you start with? I'm more concerned about wasting the money spent on the primer and all my prep time.

 

I spray above 60 degrees. As long as I have it there, no problem. I turn on the heat about an hour or so before and bring the temp up. I have never had a problem with primer.That being said, my paint both hardly ever gets below 45 or so degrees, even with no heat. So I'm not bringing the car and room from 20 degrees, I'm bringing it from 45 or so to 60 before I spray. I concrete floor radiates enough heat for this closed area to keep it warmer than outside temps.

 

thanks Pete,
i will dial it down a little and have at it.

 

seemed to work fine, will second coat tomorrow.

 

looks good.

 

thanks fastcar 1953,
Liked it so much I updated my Avatar to the what it looked when the shop was cleaned up after the painting.

 

lol turd ...

 

how was drying time?

 

YOur supposed to clean the shop to spray primer? Oh, I have always been to busy mixing primer. Never cleaned at all.

 

I seem to be less concerned about the shop and verry concerned about the preperation of spray equipment and surface prep. I avoid or never touch the surface in final sanding, cleaning with prep solvents, tack rags using rubber prep gloves. I use dupont prep rags with the final prep solvent cleaning times. Also use the round paint gun filters on all primer-paint-and blow guns.

 

it seemed to be dry fairly fast, however i chose to use the slower acting catalyst, as this is the first paint job i have attempted since i was ~18 (and Nixon as still in office). it seemed like it was well under an hour to be dry to the touch

 

Are you saying a second coat of DP? Why? It's a once and done thing as long as you apply something over it in less than a week.

 

yep, the book i was following reccomended 2 coats and i think i may have sprayed too fast (moving too fast, afraid or runs).
it may be in primer for some time, or maybe not, still debating how to proceed.

 

Recommended two coats meant spray one coat, let it flash then spray a second coat...

Check the directions for "over coating without sanding" hold time. I think you may have to scuff it before putting on another coat.

I cant remember, maybe too much exposure to paint fumes...

 

it said you could respray with out scuff for i think up to 7 days, oh well it seems to be fine and very hard.