This stuff is harder to use than candy. No 2000 grit sanding, no clear coat, no buffing, this sounds like easy to use back yard painting. IT"S NOT!! It is a battle between streaks (like you get with a spray can) and orange peel. Put the stuff on wet enough to not streak and you get orange peel and sags. Back the flow down to get a smooth, even coat and you get streaks in the LRV. This paint may work well for small projects but it is a nightmare for a whole car! I have painted my truck 3 times, used 2 gal.s of paint, (this does NOT include the bed) at 2 different paint booths and am very unhappy with the results. If you want a flat look just put down a smooth coat of base, wish I had. For anyone wanting to use this paint, I would suggest painting a 4X8 piece of sheet metal as a test before committing to a whole project.
I looked into "Flatz" and was concerned about the degree of flat was a bit much for my needed patina. Without the ability to control the flatness, had to pass. The smooth coat of base may be your choice for luster, but would be concerned about the UV tolerance and chalking. Ask about the flat in the clear and see if that can be done. If you're going to ignore the UV thing, why not give yourself a break and use Zero Rust and avoid the whole two part thing. Have Fun: Fred A
4th times a charm...no kidding the stuff is a challenge. You gotta lay it down very wet,,scary wet in fact. One of my other vehicles i shot with a base coat and did not clear,,looked great and had I kept it I would have shot it with a coat of flat clear...The truck in the pic here is done in flatz pearl and i applied Treme brand flat clear over the paint as the paint is not durable by any stretch.
I ordered some metallic flatz the other day. I've got some experience in spraying single stage flat paint and know the chance you take when you spray something that is pre-flattened. There are sure some mixed emotions about this paint
The best satin finish paint jobs I've done on my own vehicles were with flattened clear over a base coat. Single stage is a lot more difficult. Bob
That's what I'm planning. My test panels have come out pretty good so far - now it's time to screw up the car
I used it to shoot a custom bike I built for a buddy... Yyyyyep. Not the easiest stuff to work with. As mentioned above, I had to keep thinning it, and thinning it, and thinning it, to the point of being uncomfortable. It ended up being thinned to almost 50/50 in order to get a good lay, if I recall. But when you finally DO get it right (and eventually you will figure out what works best for you with your system and in your climate) the finish is killer.
Ha, The whole idea behind flat paint is it is easy to shoot. Guess that old time theory goes right out the door. Glad you get it worked out.
this is acrylic enamel reduced 1 qt flatter to 2 quarts paint, 10 percent laquer thinner and shoot it . lays down great dries super fast and is the right semi gloss i wanted... and cheap ..... i did my 55 chevy black magic with jd blitz black and it was super easy to do, i repainted half of the car about three yrs later from an accident and it was easy to match etc.
What happens when you wet sand and polish flattened clear? Does it become shiny or does it stay satin?
I have used it twice. I painted a 50 ford with the flat black metallic and the hood came out darker than the rest of the car so I had to repaint it......I just painted the truck in my avatar flat ralley green metallic and the doors came out darker than the rest. You can probably see it....anyway, I will be repainting them to try again...cheaper than repainting the whole truck. In the sun it is beautiful Grommet
It's will have a little more sheen, but it will never get glossy. Satin or flat paints use a flattening agent made from talc. The irregularly shaped talc particles in the resin causes light to diffuse, rather than reflect, and the talc particles at the surface have the greatest affect. When you polish the paint, you smooth down the particles to a uniform surface finish, and they reflect a bit more, but nowhere near a gloss finish. Bob
I shot it last week out in the wind and sun. I was really impressed with it. Laid it on stupid thick, painfully so. Not a single run or orange peel. Not even a fish eye. To be honest for the slap and go prep work we did and the spraying conditions it should of turned out like crap. But for crawling through the rocks and shrub's who cares... I'm in So Cal so it is very dry here with no humidity to speak of that might be the difference in spraying experiences?
want to know a easy way to get that satin look? Use lacquer paint but don't rub it out. You can color sand it but don't rub it out with compound. Dupli Color sells matte clear lacquer in quarts in case a coat of clear is desired.
I did that unintentionally in 1973 When I painted the 48 72 Monte Carlo Placer Gold. We didn't clear it and it had the look that these guys love now.
I also wanted to know what happens if I wet sanded the flat clear and then polished it..Mirror finish,,looked great but way too much work to do the whole truck,,,skin might start leakin'
I have never tried any of the the "new generation" FLATZ paints that are currently available to hot rodders today. Even with primer you cannot get too lazy or apply it disregarding good spray painting methods. Sure, primer or flat flat finish paints do hide a multitude of "sins" but as mentioned in this thread it does require applying it properly. Thanks for all the tips. DragRcr50..... Your Opel GT is awesome!!!! Brings back memories of the "good old days" of drag racing for me!!!!! Would love to see it run!!!! It truly is an example of the cars we ran back when drag racing was fun for "everyone"!!!!
I apiinted my brothers mustang with it. First I laid on a tack coat then I let it have it with two heavy wet coats. I couldn't have been happier and he loves it.