Well, after all that, letting it idle for an hour, it runs at proper temps, I'm stumped, I would have bet on a blockage somewhere, but like others, I'm leaning to the rad, doesn't have the ability to shed heat. Funny thing, my 36 ford pickup ran an aluminum rad for a few years, cooled fantastic, til the bottom tank split, (epoxy) and I had the stocker recored. My truck runs a 327, all the good parts, flat top pistons, yadda, yadda, anyway, recored the stock rad which is huge dimensionally, with a four core setup, engine takes a long time to come up to 205, when the fan kicks in, sensor is 190, located in the bottom rad tank, guage reads 205, fan turns on, thermostat is 195, takes awhile to come down enough to shut the fan off at 190. Off to the rad shop that built the rad, they tell me that a three core would have been a better choice, four core doesn't dissipate heat easily as a three core or two core rad, seems the back fins don't get the cool air like the front does. However, at speed, the thing cools fantastically, runs 190 even on a 110 degree day. I wish you luck, seems a test with a different rad is in order. By the way, don't let 200 degree temps scare you, all modern engines run 200 all day, it aids in efficiency, I also have a 48 anglia with a 350 in it, 195 thermostat, cools well, won't boil, but definitely don't like crawling along parade routes, she'll run to the boiling point, pretty scary watching that guage, got a tiny rad in it, seems to work though.
The reason new engines run hot is because of some goofy emission law. It does little for efficiency. I think the high temperature was to eliminate NOX. I do not like electric fans. I would have them start cooling at 160 or lower. This would give a little wiggle room.
Ol'Ron mentions holes that need to be plugged in a late block to use the early style heads. There is a picture of these on page 5 of his book. There are also differences in the cooling passages in the center of the block and head between early and late designs. I think those details can be found on the Vanpelt site. I reread your threads on the Fordbarn and here again. They are making me think there is low flow through the heads. As ugly as this may sound you might pull a head to check the cooling hole configuration matches the block.
It comes down to this and the questionable radiator. Which is cheaper to tackle? Just checking the heads, you're out a gasket set at the minimum. More if the heads are a mis-match. Flip a coin.. anyone see my 2-headed quarter? I would beg, borrow or steal another radiator, anyone got one to lend out? Bob
A buddy of mine had the same problem when we swapped a 302 in a 55 merc. The fan that was on the mtor wouldnt clear so we used an electric fan. Got it running and it kept overheating. He proceded to replace the entire cooling system and radiator. Went throught the timing ect. Still overheated. We were restoring a 1967 tiger and found the mechanical fan it used cleared the radiator. Used it and removed the electric fan and solved the problem. I dont trust them but if you must use it I would try and bump down the temp the thermostat kicks on for the fan and buy/build a shroud for that fan! If that doesent help check the heads, headgaskets, and water passages int the block and make sure everything matches.
Well the next step is a new better quality electric puller fan. New SPAL fan just arrived. I don't know if its going to fix anything but it is way more powerful the Summitt that I have in there now. I just put some juice to it and it just about took off !!!! The thing pulls some mean air. My existing fan seems whimpy compared to the SPAL. Looks promising --We'll see tomorrow.
The fan did not help? You did not cut your fingers off did you. We have not had a reply about the fan.
WELL -- I put the new SPAL on and I'm reluctant to say that it worked. The engine does stay cooler. This fan draws a lot better than what I was using. I say I'm reluctant because its only been in the low 50's since I put it in. It definirely keeps it under control before it has a cjance to climb. I'll keep you posted as soon as better weather gets here.
I fought a overheating issue similar to that in my 51. I finally remedied it with a new radiator core (4row) even though the 3 core tested good it wouldn't cool it enough
With a 16 lb cap, 210 is not bad. With a 50% water / anti freeze mixture, each lb. raises the boil point 3 degrees. 16 x 3 is 48, so add that to 212 degrees, and you have the actual boiling point, in this case, 260 degrees. The reason they stopped using temp numbers on the factory guages is people only saw it go over 212, and thought there was a problem. 4TTRUK
ps; Old style heads, on 8BA block means only plugging ONE passage, the fwd one, on pass side of the block. I'm using "restrictors" instead of t'stats, which, so far, work just right. 4TTRUK
leave both thermostats in....get a LARGER radiator....the two row aluminum one is not big enough...my flathead used a copper/brass unit manufactured by USRadiator...it was a four row core, used a Derale 16" electric fan, two 160 degree thermostats and it ran at 195-200 degrees all summer long....even in traffic....I was using a seven pound pressure cap too...and never used any of that water wetter crap...just a 50/50 mix.
Ditto the 4 row (aka larger) radiator; Mine is a recored original, stock tanks...Holds a lot of coolant. 7 lb cap raises the 50 / 50 mix by 21 degrees, to 233 degrees boiling point. 4TTRUK
There are plenty of electric fans out there. They all claim to do the same thing. I've tried a few of them and definitely found a difference. The car I had it in is the one in my avatar photo. The maximum width I could use was 14". I found that "straight blades do a much better job than curved blades. (curved are supposed to be quieter) Pulling in more efficient than pushing. The fan is a SPAL #30102041 14" High Performance Straight Blade- Pulling.
Glad that you have solved the problem! I don't run a fan on my 8ba at the moment, and haven't had any issues so far, - although some tell me that I will eventually.
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