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Chassis engineering rear end kit with lowering blocks, lower shock plates bending????

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by GREASER815, Apr 15, 2012.

  1. GREASER815
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 973

    GREASER815
    Member

    Got my rear end kit installed, threw in some 2 inch cast iron blocks. Put the U-bolts on, I am in the process of torquing everything down. U bolts say torque to 85 FT LBS so that what I went with. My lower shock plates are bending. I got them to 85, but I am worried I will lose tightness if they continue to bend just from driving. Is this normal for them to curve a bit? I have never had this issue before. My rearend is a 70 Nova, and the chassis engineering kit I bought is designed to use a Nova rear. Just want to get this done and everything is seeming to go wrong if it can. Any help appreciated.
     

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  2. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,783

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    Call CE, very helpfully folks.
     
  3. The plates look a little skimpy. I don't happen to have any CE units around, but they ought to be at least 1/4" thick but 5/16" to 3/8" would be even better.

    Charlie
     
  4. RICKY~RICARDO
    Joined: Sep 27, 2011
    Posts: 422

    RICKY~RICARDO
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Milwaukee

    I would get some spacers and add them to u bolt section that would prevent them from bending.
     

  5. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None
    Member



    Not a bad idea, the plates were probably not designed to be used with lowering blocks. You said the kit was for a nova rear, did you tell them about the blocks? They might have gave you a thicker plate then?
     
  6. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,795

    Pewsplace
    Member

    The photos show a real problem. The plates should not bend under any circumstance as the u-bolts will loosen and cause big problems. Call CE and send them a photo.
     
  7. Me too.
     
  8. turdmagnet
    Joined: May 19, 2008
    Posts: 384

    turdmagnet
    Member

    I was concerned about how light they looked when I did my rear axle, so I ended up fabbing up a saddle that wrapped around the leaf springs slightly. It also allows the nuts to be higher up on the u-bolts so you can keep the scrub line nice and high. It also keeps the shock mount higher to accomodate the lowering blocks.
     

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  9. GREASER815
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 973

    GREASER815
    Member

    I am considering spacers, I just want to make sure they are getting the proper torque. Should I pull the plates up flush them measure and cut spacers a tad bit shorter so I know I am getting a good torque on them?
     
  10. Jimmy2car
    Joined: Nov 26, 2003
    Posts: 1,707

    Jimmy2car
    Member
    from No. Cal

    Spacers are not going to help you. The plate is too thin.
     
  11. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,481

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Some type of spacer is probably the answer. Chassis Eng. designed the plates to be like the stock ones, i.e. they squeeze the stock Nova mounting rubber pads while the lower plates make contact with the rearend brackets. I can't take pics right now but that's how mine are. 12 bolt rear ( requires multileaf rear spring) stock tapered rubber mounting pads and CE lower plates and U bolts. When installed this way the u bolts can't bend the lower plates.
     
  12. Those are thinner than ANY CE plates I have seen and/or sold.
     
  13. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

    x2 !!!
     
  14. 48FordFanatic
    Joined: Feb 26, 2011
    Posts: 1,335

    48FordFanatic
    Member
    from Maine

    I thought mine were a little light too. They didn't bend, but then again I didn't tighten them to 85 ft-lbs. Can't remember if mine are 1/4 or 5/16 , but they should probably be 3/8 anyway. Also, I only have about 50 ft-lbs on them . 85 ft-lbs on four bolts in that small an area is one hell of a lot of clamping force....probably not necessary.
     
  15. Bolt holes in the spacers are too far apart. I'm thinking that they shoul be narrower and closer to the width of the springs
     
  16. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,407

    oldolds
    Member

    What he said.


     
  17. caseyrod
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 138

    caseyrod
    Member

    turdmagnet's plate design is the way to go,CE should copy it.I ve never ever torque rear spring u bolts.not that is bad or anything just is not a big deal.
     
  18. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 4,671

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    Agreed, what an awesome design. Apply for a patent, then sell it to CE.
    Greaser's CE setup is bending because lowering blocks were tossed into the mix. Hypothetically, if he kept tightening the nuts, the plates would bend all the way up to the axle saddle. Without lowering blocks, the lower plate should snug up evenly against the underside of the bottom leaf and the axle leaf saddle simultaneously.

    CE will say the kit/plate isn't intended to be used with blocks. And yes, I know....their rear leaf kits seem to always sit high.
     
  19. BrerHair
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 5,008

    BrerHair
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm curious how thick your plates are. My CE plates are 3/8", but I ordered lowering blocks from them. Have not torgued them yet, and now I think I'll just wait and see . . .
     
  20. GREASER815
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 973

    GREASER815
    Member

    My plates are just under 1/4" thick. I am going to call them tomorrow, to be perfectly honest, I am not very impressed for the money I gave for the kit. The plates are thin and add just one more issue to deal with. The springs are supposed to be 3" under stock. It sits higher than when I bought it with stock suspension, thats the only reason I even used blocks, I really didn't want to.
     
  21. spooler41
    Joined: Feb 25, 2007
    Posts: 1,099

    spooler41
    Member

    Stop; go back and read post #15. Chalkboard had it right. The U bolts should almost touch the spring sides, you need to find spring plates with the proper hole spacing for your spring width. As your picture shows the U bolts are angled out at the bottom and pulling
    to far away from the spring edge. 5/16" or 3/8" spring plates would also help.


    ...............Jack
     
  22. GREASER815
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 973

    GREASER815
    Member

    What if I cut another lower plate out of 1/4" plate I have laying around and doubled it up? I could tack the edges, drill my holes, and have myself a 1/2" plate for free. I am trying to get this thing on the road for Tourquefest so I want to solve it and move on. Opinions appreciated.
     
  23. GREASER815
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 973

    GREASER815
    Member

    The u-bolts have to come through that wide because the nova perch is spaced out that far.[​IMG]
     
  24. spooler41
    Joined: Feb 25, 2007
    Posts: 1,099

    spooler41
    Member

    Greaser, your U bolts also need to be vertical, they look pinched together at the top.

    .......Jack
     
  25. GREASER815
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 973

    GREASER815
    Member


    I had them vertical, they wanted to pull in as the plates were bending. I have put alot of rearends in, I just have never ran into an issue like this.
     
  26. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 4,921

    phat rat
    Member

    Don't waste your time calling CE. I talked to them in person about the same problem. I have their low ride kit in my cpe with lowering blocks. Their answer was that I shouldn't have needed lowering blocks with that kit and couldn't understand why that wasn't low enough. I added a 3/8" plate to the bottom of theirs but wish I'd put it on top and gained a little for shock extension.
    To those who say the blocks are too narrow or the u-bolts spaced to far apart. The lowering blocks are the width of the spring and the Nova pad. Also the u-bolts go through the stock Nova pad as CE designed it
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2012
  27. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,201

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    This is right on, either make spacers to keep the plate from bending up or make the "U" shaped plates. There is nothing holding the plate back from bending further up as well.
     
  28. The blocks are to narrow. New blocks. New bolts.
     
  29. GREASER815
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 973

    GREASER815
    Member


    Exactly my idea, last time I talked to them sucked. It was like pulling teeth to spend my money there. Anyway, thats all over and done, I will make a set of thicked plates tomorrow.
     
  30. Stevie Nash
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,999

    Stevie Nash
    Member

    I used 3/8 steel when I made mine....
     

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