Foolin' with 4 Jugs...The April 2012 Banger Meet

Here is the banger link list .


For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498



Banger basics. another info link list:

http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.billsbangers.com

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=6

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484


Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://www.centuryperformance.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:

http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Elrod's stuck head tech:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:

http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp


Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"

http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05


Chevy Banger Stuff

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/The-High-Speed-Internal-Combustion-Engine-Ricardo-1931

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.

If anyone knows of more, please post them.

 

Thanks Crazzzz I had no ''Title'' for April

 

Speed

 

jimski , never seen you without something to say . im moving to poland next door to you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! APRIL FOOLS !

 

New month same old stuff!

Try this, Years ago I purchased a Winfield "Crows Foot" from an old lakes racer. He told me he had run 114 or something like that. He told me he had a Winfield Super Race cam. There are a lot of Winfield Super race cams. Just Google Winfield SU1A. Back in the day we spoke of 3/4 race, Full race, and Super, He said he had used 1 7/8" intake valves. Not sure if it was an A or B block but I'm leaning towards the A going with that large of a hole, although come to think of it, Geo Riley recommended opening up the exhaust with a 1 5/8" cutter in a B block. I'm about .060 .070 under that now in my A block. I will open it up to 1 5/8"
So off to the valve box I went and found me a 2" intake and I turned it down to 1 7/8" Made a valve guide stuck it in an A block and dropped the current Winfield cast iron "crows Foot" on top of my thumb literally. This head has the numerals 8 6 88 stamped into the pad, measures about 110 cc's. No gasket and head has been milled .060. Well, not a lot of side clearance but with no gasket have around .450 over block at intake port. Cam has .365 lift with say .060 on the valve margin for total of .425 plus .060 for the head gasket. Almost forgot tappet clearance .014 would leave .099. Full 1.750 diameter intake valve just fits in the current Al repop chamber. Not sure if my math is right. So I think I'll try this combination and see if the flow comes from under the valve. Don't you re-engineers try to talk me out of it. Shrouding be damned. If you notice in the photo the valve pocket diameters appear to have been opened up. I have had 2 of these and they both looked identical in that area. Radius behind the valve is almost nonexistent.

 

nice head . cams : i have an honest 3/4 cam ! isky on my wall !

 

Don't waste that cam send it to me

 

im not wasting it , im saving it as i promised . its an antique ! LOL

 

You can buy that cam from Ed....... I Got one for our friend in Paris (France no Ohio) last year

 

Do you have the specs if that 3/4 race cam?

 

So the other cylinder is just... dead? Do you even put a piston and rod in the hole?

 

<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset" class=alt2>Originally Posted by steve norcal
i bought a nu-rex degree kit & marked my pulley @ tdc . works great , like a modern car . you can get the timing dead nutz .. steve

**http://www.nurex.com/list_products.asp
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
"Steve; I tried ordering one but they won't sell to a Canadian I didn't realize that this company was so distrusting of "Outsiders".

I gave Nu Rex a call late this afternoon and left a message. The owner called me this evening and apologized for not been able to get the timing kit on line and offered to send me one. He explained to me that they are more into the manufacturing of this kind of stuff and hardly ever sell direct to the internet customers. He did mention firms that do handle their products but as I said before he did offer to send me one. I declined his offer and placed my order for a timing kit with Snyders.
Thanks to Steve and Herb for your offers to help.
Ron

 

Here is a link to a list of many of the cams and thier specs.

http://www.harveycrane.com/ford.htmj

.

 

Ed Winfield said he took the intake lobe design of one cam, a semi full race and the exhaust lobe of another cam and said it was about 3/4's of his full race cam. And so that was the origin of the 3/4 race cam. Here is some history for you!

http://justacarguy.blogspot.com/2011/06/ed-winfield-father-of-hot-rodding-and.html

 

I received the Secretes of Speed magazine today. They have an article about a Swedish made Split Cam. The cam can run !/4" higher lobes. The cam distributor oil pump gear is keyed and connects the two halfs together. A long bolt ties the two pieces together. The halfs are tilted into the engine and then the cam is assembled. The only comment was the cam lobes might hit a counterbalanced crank. The height of the lobes has been restricted in the old days because of the camshaft bearing diameters. I thought it was pretty neat.

 

With the head bolted on and torqued. Valves adjusted. Just realized there is no oil drain back built into a Dodge bros. But it's getting closer.

 

Some pics I took of Rich's engine yesterday

 

What size are your oil lines Rich . Heaps of work there love seeing motors like this

 

-10 to and from the pump. The 5 lines from the oil manifold to the mains are -4 teflon lined and hard line. If I ever tear the engine down I will put the oil manifold inside the pan and go to -6

 

Thanks Rich It is a very interesting motor I always think the bigger the lines the better, I would agree with the oil manifold in the pan always a good way to go.

 

Rich

Teflon doesn't like heat..... you may have a problem with hot oil and teflon

And I agree your always better off large lines unless the run is very short

 

As compared to Earl's or similar rubber lines with stainless covers I trust Teflon more. We sure used a lot more of it on aircraft that I was around than the rubber. The whole oiling system on the Dodge is a big learning process. Wish me luck.

 

I all wish the best for you Rich

Please look up the max temps for rubber and teflon

Teflon is higher pressure but not operating temps

Size is a question of delta-p...... that is pressure loss over distance

It's not the diameter of the hose but its area inside. This works both ways up and down.

In a perfect world where you could test often without damage things would be less hit and miss.

In this world I would rather have hoses large and a real high output pump

I can tell you that in all the engines over all these years I only got the lines too large once....

And over all these years I've looked at guys we raced against err to the too small and watched stuff die way too often.

 

Rich, weren't these heads spritz and drive are far as oil goes? How are you going to fix it?

 

Since i had no rocker assembly to start with I made my own and run oil through the rear valve cover hold down stud/-4 an fitting to the rocker shaft and to the Rocker Arm Specialty's rockers. The oil will drain back down the ex valve guides now push rod holes to the lifter gallery. Which I just now put a -6 AN line in that drains the gallery into the gear box for the distributer drive and back to the pan. I don't expect oil temps to be high enough to harm the Teflon lined hoses without being disastrous for some of the rotating parts. Check back with me after World of Speed for real world experience.

 

Ho yes ! thanks again Bluto !

Best thing was to bring the cams from Paris to Gardena !

Please say Hi to Master Ed !

 

I hope your using Airquip hose. Their website will tell you temp ranges Long time ago I learned I knew nothing and therefore assumed nothing..... I always look both ways before crossing the street....... and slide into first on ball four

 

I have found that if an oil line is too narrow the heat goes up very fast. I like big braided lines with good fittings I know they are pricy but so is a new motor.

 

Hey guys Rustee was having trouble putting pics of his T up here so I am doing it for him. I will let Rustee tell you about them.

 

This is my roadster pickup in pretty much its sidevalve version it is currently undergoing a rebuild with Rutherford overhead , winfield carbs , overdrive , quickchange and one of Pats wonderful front plates and dizy drives. I have driven this car for about 40 years.