Excellent quality. I have them in my small block Chevy race engine. Never have broken one. I buzz my 406 past 7000 rpms, and run low 10's in the quarter mile.
Started using them in the mid 80's. Worked fine in the stroker's I've had in my circle track cars, and I liked to turn em high. I would think they'd last forever in a streetable car.
I have been doing a lot of research lately since I'm putting a new engine together and from what I've gathered, stay away from their cranks but the rods seemed to have better praise. An American 4340 rod will cost around 2 times as much as the eagles. Go with the H beam and ARP 2000 bolt upgrade and just have them checked at the machine shop for proper sizing before installing.
I built a very potent 400SBC using a Dart block and Eagle forged crank with Eagle H-beam rods. I had everything checked by the machine shop and balanced internally. It has been bullit proof so far.
Good rods for up to the medium horsepower level. As others have said, manufactured in China - final machining done in the USA. Have them checked out at a machine shop . . . if they need to be resized, not a big deal. I wouldn't compare them to Oliver, Crower, etc - but they'll run less than 1/2 the price of the top-end steel billet rods. FYI: I've heard a lot of bad stuff about the quality of their crank work (SCAT seems to be a lot better in this end of the market). Any time you buy a crank from the low-end guys, you may need to have it reground to have the journals exact, with consistency and no taper.
I have heard good and bad about Eagle and Scat, I guess the key is to check over any parts you get, and along with snap guages and mics, consider getting some plastiguage, that way you know your running clearances as well. I have heard a lot of good feedback on Ohio Crankshaft, and heard that some of their pricing is better than Scat and Eagle. I am sure someone here has had bad experience with OC, so it is all give and take, just do your research...
Thanks for the replies. Jut wondering what the general opinion of them was. 51box, new engine for the rail?
Right, some things you can check but if your Chinese crank is .002 out of round even though the main journal measures out properly you're going to have a problem. Bringing an all new rotator to get checked and balanced is pretty self explanatory in my opinion. Tudor, yeah I am putting together a new bullet for the dragster, a blown alcohol Chevy with substantial sack compared to the old engine. How is your dragster coming along?
These days checking and measuring each and every internal moving part for an engine you are building is a must do. It's a lot better to spend the extra time doing the measuring and fitting and knowing that the part is right rather than assuming that it is right.
Awesome. Finished up the motor plate mounts last night and have the steering mocked up. I am putting in a different steering box. Need to figure out a seat pan and have made the plans to build a trailer. Working on it. Hope to run it this year. Can't wait man. I imagine the new engine will come next year. Keep us posted on your progress. You are the reason I know it can be done! I've got eagle h beams in my blown 383.
Bill Miller Engineering, GRP rods. These are excellent parts with awesome customer service. Expensive.yes. But. You can pay me now or pay me later. Good luck on your project.
Did I say don't learn how to measure things? Some people don't have the tools to accomplish what is being discussed. If you can't trust your machinist, it's time to find a new one.
I bought a complete Eagle competition rotating assy. Everything checked OK. Nice parts made in China, that has a funny ring to it but China has cutting edge capabilities.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> <o></o> You may be able to measure but you sure can't read. I will say what is amusing is how good you are at twisting what you have read to say something else. Then it appears you like to make broad condescending comments. I certainly haven't handed out any advice. <o></o>
Eagle rods are better than stock, but not as strong and durable as the more expensive rods made by Carrillo, Crower, Oliver, etc. Note that I am referring to the rods these companies have traditionally made, not the Chinese alternatives some of these companies are also offering. For most users and applications Eagle rods work out fine. If you are doing something really extreme/severe then the extra cost for better rods is worth spending. The dimensional tolerances on the Eagle rods I have bought are not first rate. Usable, but sloppy by race engine standards. Parallelism between the bores is ok, but I resized the big ends to remove taper and ovality.
Shit I have 2 race engines with pink and X rods.. never turn them over 5700.. I also have one with eagle rods and turn it 7500 to 7700.. worth the money just triple check everything.
[QUOTE For most users and applications Eagle rods work out fine. If you are doing something really extreme/severe then the extra cost for better rods is worth spending. The dimensional tolerances on the Eagle rods I have bought are not first rate. Usable, but sloppy by race engine standards. Parallelism between the bores is ok, but I resized the big ends to remove taper and ovality.[/QUOTE] EXACTLY what he said. Tolerances are NOT spot on, check em properly and if not right get em done properly th first time. Rat
They're ok, they'll do the job in a mild setup but no where near the quaity of Carillo, Oliver. Crower etc. Scat would be a better mid-budget rods in my opinion (based on being a trained engine builder) the tolerances, weight/balance equality and material properties are better in the Scat rods.
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