That's a shame its not a simple fix like my stupidity ! Just remembered my other ticking noise... Broken inner valve springs http://heminutter.comule.com/354-chrysler-hemi-broken-valve-springs/ Paul
Gary, My drill is a 2 speed battery type. I was runnning it on low then switched it to high and it really shot up. Made a damn mess. It was in a garage with an 8 foot cieling and it was there when I looked up. But the drivers bank didnt flow as much. I reinstalled the pass bank lifters and spun it again. The pressure came up, the oil flow to the drivers side increased. But not a lot. The part that is strange is that the side with the good oil flow is the noisey side! I looked at the cam lobes carefully and didnt see anything. They all looked good. I can put a rag on my palm and put it on the rocker tip and kill the noise. Believe it or not i was able to fashion a couple of wrenches to adjust said exhaust pushrod while the engine was at idle. Add a bit of preload, quiets for a few seconds and comes back. Again this is only when the engine is hot.
That is why I said check clearances at the guide. You've tried everything else.... Also wrist pins make more noise hot then cold (that's more of a knock). Have you tryed getting the engine hot, removing the valve cover, and running the engine putting your hand over the rocker, at idle, to see if the noise goes away or changes? That's how I've found noises in the valvetrain.
That is a good way to narrow down valve train noise. Wrist pins tend to be a double knock. If it was me I would bite the bullet and pull er down. Still early in the year so you have plenty of rodding after it's fixed. You would hate to be saying "I wish I would have....." if she lets loose and gets hurt bad. Oh and Hack I LOVE the flat top roof.
Yes sir. Many times. Thats how I narrowed it down to this particular rocker. When you push the rocker tip onto onto the valve tip, you are affectivly assisting the lifter with its load. It quiets the noise right up. I sure do appreciate the time and patients you guys have put in on this issue. I am a newb to the HEMI world and the advice is great.
You can also use a auto stethoscope or long screw driver to isolate the noise just to be sure but you probably already knew that........................
I did but thanks for the imput. The noise is for sure at the rocker tip. And that makes it even more frustrating. Its right there. . . . laughing in my face.
Is the valve spring a double spring or a spring with a damper? If so, then check the spring for being square. If it's not sitting square on its base, then the inner spring or damper can be making the clicking noise by interfering with the outer spring.
Yeah, I had a bad hemi issue a couple months ago, but some suppositories and lots of fiber made it all go away.
Well someone already said it but I will say it again. I have seen guides that are just a little bit tight stick momentarily causing this type of sound. The fact that it does this when it is hot and on the exhaust valve might tell ya something. What kinda of clearance do you have on the guides? Do you have seals on the valves? Are you running the guides too dry or too tight? I have seen this before. If you have seals on the exhaust valves take em off. and see what happens
Thats cute man. Dont waist our time with your smart ass comments. If you don't have anything usefull to add, don't post. Or at least make a contribution to the Alliance before you do. Hackman
I also feel the guide/valve maybe at fault..With engine running and warm put sideways pressure on valve retainer, like with handle of hammer..If noise goes away the guide is bad...or one not good thought is that exhaust valve maybe bent and the noise you hear is sideways movement from it "adjusting" itself onto the seat...
Ok that may be. I just returned from the shop and I tried something else. I ran through all the adjustable pushrods and adjusted them again. Started it up waited for the engine to warm up and there it is again, my old buddy, the tick. With the engine running and the rocker cover off I find once again that the noise maker is the #8 exhaust. While the engine is running, I adjust the pushrod. First i back it off and the lash increases. Then add length to the pushrod until the "tick" goes away. Tighten the jam and in approx. ten seconds. . . there it is again. So I shut it down and with the intake valve beginning to close i re-adjust the exhaust side. Start it up and its ticking. I used a rag on my palm to push on the rockerarm tip and open the valve manually. Upon release the tick is gone for another ten or so seconds. Then it returns. The #4 intake vale was doing the exact same thing but not as bad. The odd bank of the engine is much quieter. This seems interesting to me. The old must be going somewhere!
Just a thought was the cam a regrind? If it was can the base circle be reduced so much that lifter sits to low in the bore maybe 37rr can answer.
It was a new core. Direct from Isky. Good question though. Im sure Gary may have some insight on that. The man knows his stuff!
What do you guys think woulfd be the absolute thickest oil I could run? I mean if the engine is quiet when the oil is thick, if it stays thick, it may kill the bleed?
do you have any solid pushrods to try? ive only ever used adjustables for measurements for valve clearance rocker geomegry etc.. are they threaded?
Yes they are threaded and are very commonly used in these engines. Mostly used in situations when a regrind is used due to the reduction in base circle. They are a pretty nice piece. 3/8 in tubes and 5/16 ends. The stock hemi pushrods are 1/4 inch, rods and ends, i believe.
It will be interesting to here what you figgure out. Th only other thing I can think of not discussed is a loose valve seat insert. You could check that by pulling the header.
Man, I wish that I had something to add to this thread but looks like it's all been said. Bet we have at least one new Hemi Expert when you get this ironed out and you will. Most interesting thread Ive' checked out in a while. All of the suggestions are good stuff for any engine with lifter noise.
ohh okay i understand. my thought behind that could be the heat causing expansion possibly causing the threads to get sloppy. hopfully something somes up!
Interesting idea. But why would I be able to kill it for a few seconds by adjusting the pushrod a little or pushing the valve open with my palm? It would seem that it would do this all the time. I agree that whatever it ends up being is a dandy for sure. I'm leaning to solid bumpstick.
Tommy thanks for the kind words. I sure owe most ALL of my current knoledge of the Elephant to the HAMB. Thanks again to eveyone.
As to the base circle, even on radical regrinds all of the lobes/bases will be the same, so....no help, or concerns, there. The adjustable pushrods are not a concern. Is may be possible that the exhaust valve is swelling up a bit in the guide, I have had it happen before, in fact, it resulted in a broken rocker arm, but haven't figured out how to tie it to the noise.... If you decide to check the stem clearance be sure to have the piston at TDC before you pull the valve spring. What I am having trouble with, is the tick-tick-tick combined with the 10 sec or so time lag. When I get some time I will have to go stare at a bare block. After running the engine and finding the tick, have you looked at the lifter puck to see where it is, physically, in relation to the snap ring? Compared to the others it looks the same or ??? .
Gary, No I have not done so. How would I go about doing this with the intake on and valley cover installed? If I were to collapse the pushrod and remove it, the puck would move with the preload removed. . . or am I not on the same page?
Aw crap, looks like my left brain got ahead of my right brain. I was visualizing the engine with access to the valley...but thats not going to work... I think its time to call it a day. .
Try swaping the valve spring and retainers, and a push rod from another cylinder. that would eliminate that side of it. should only take a few minutes. Changing lifters eliminated those. That leaves the cam, lifters bore or oil supplying it, the rocker itself, or the valve or the valve guide.
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