Are these accurate enough for automotive work?

I have one of these gauges, I think it is inaccurate. At least mine is..... Are these even good enough? what style of gauge are you using to measure caster and pinion angles. Thanks

http://www.google.com/products/cata...a=X&ei=R69NT8-VCcqwiQLQ59W3Dw&ved=0CFcQ8wIwAg

 

I think its very usable.

 

I have a similar one not the same brand but the same style. Used it for years with no problems. If you think it's not reading correctly borrow a friends and compare the reading from each.

 

I have a cheap one that comes out real close when compared with my didgetal gage.

 

I had one that was 2 degrees off but thats still usable as long as you remember

 

Good enough, as long as it hasn't been dropped too many times.

Check it against a bubble level.

 

I hope so, its what i used for my front end

 

I hope so too. I have been using a couple for years. And yes, they DO NOT like being dropped. They will break, most likely.

 

That's what I did. Sometimes I can get it to be level and sometimes I can't and it is 5-7 degrees off.

Thanks guys, I acquired it used, so who knows on condition. I'm going to go get a new one tomorrow. I didn't know they were so cheap.

 

I have a Ace brand just like that .... its shitty. I can tap it with my finger and the needle will move (and stick) three degrees.... I dont trust it.

 

I never used one again after I got one of these.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/pro360protractor.php

Not very expensive, for a tool I use as much as I use that one.

It has a Hold feature that is real handy too.

And a Alt Zero.

I've dropped a couple of times in the 10 or more years I've had it ( probably not reccomended )

It payed for itself long time ago...

 

Time for a new one, and don't loan it to your idiot friends.

 

I use one for automotive work..... that really doesnt say much though....

 

The one in the picture is broke, either that or it's upside down

 

Those things are great, and accurate for their intended purpose. If you drop them, wear them out, leave them sit forever, grind on them, throw them in the mud, they won't be accurate any longer.
The thing that you need to remember is they read off of level, that means whatever you are working on must be on a level surface.

 

That was considered a precision tool for hot rodding when I got mine. Are you building a nuclear reactor or a hotrod? When I started there were a hell of a lot more construction workers than machinists in the hobby.

 

Then this should solve your problem

 

If you think it's not accurate, they are very easy to check. Just set in on a level, and center the bubble. It should read 0. If its one that the needle sticks on occasionally, trash it.

 

What they said. But I'd like to add that the needle moves along the dial increments but also floats "to and fro". If my guage isn't damn near perpindicular to level the needle will rub the inside of the housing and get "sticky". I'll tap it gently a couple times while taking the reading to make sure the needle is not hung up.

 

I use them on all kinds of projects. This is just one example of a crude sub frame being fabricated for a sidecar body. Starting with the surface plate (table) and then the subframe, and then the hinge body. When using more than one you can swap them around to see if they all reads the same.
When using a digital angle gauge you must calibrate the reading of you will be off the same amount on every measurement.
I've used the same type of inexpensive angle gauges for over forty years when I built hydroplanes, aerobatic airplanes, and Super Modified race cars. Now that I'm back building Hot Rods I use them on my T Buckets. The price is right at Harbor Freight when there on sale, so purchase three and when you have to replace one you will have it in stock. I went the digital route some time back, and I never use the dam thing.

 

what about the bubble style gauges that the stock car guys use? those aren't too expensive either...

 

There is an iPhone App for that. Seriously. I tried it for driveshaft angle on a 56 Chev build.

 

Here you go bud, a very good alternative and yes at H/F, but also the same thing in the Jeggs catalog, around $30, item # 95998. I use and trust these much better than the plastic ones. Anything critical, I use one like Alex has, but of course that one cost $200, and well worth it. TR

 

That is what I use only mine is yellow.




I have a real accurate Sterret that resides in a felt lined maple box. It isn't magnetic and I haven't used it in years. If my build required my angles needed to be measured in seconds I would drag the Sterret out. Most of my cars don't need to be that close any more.