I saw one thread on motorized cowl vents. So, I did do a search before starting this thread. I am going to have to make some room for an AC unit under the dash of my 41 Plymouth and the cowl vent linkage, as neat as it is, has got to go. I've seen several motorized cowl vent options, most of which don't seem to have a limit switch to stop them at full closed. Some seem more compact than others and some seem more heavy duty but not compact. What have you had experience with and what do you like, dislike or recommend. I am keeping my cowl vent. So, don't recommend that I weld it up!
When we built my deuce 3 window I used a complete Auburn dash which rendured the stock cowl vent handle useless. We found a Dodge van rear side window motor which in combination with a short shaft and 2 small heims worked out perfect. It has limits both up and down and once adjusted closes the vent just right.
I think it's Honda, but could be another make. Some of the newer mini-vans have rear windows with electric openers. They pop the window open a couple inches. Not sure how far you need the vent to open, but I'll bet you could hunt in a junkyard for a late model mini-van that has that feature and yank out the motorized opener. Found this: http://www.dormanguide.com/vent-window-motor.html. You could probably call Dorman to see what the specs are. Also found that it's on the 99 Chrysler Town & Country
i had one from watsons ,very flimsy would not hold vent down hard enough to keep the water out. i told them what i thought of it at columbus , they said sorry u didnt like it.
I swapped out the manual latches and did up a remote set on my 96 dakota and they worked fine. At current, I'm driving an old 99 gran voy with those in it. As I recall, I simply had to set the "pulled in" limit and the rest was done after that. Mind you, that was for a window and not a cowl vent. Funny thing is that I was thinking of using those for my back wing windows on my 40 touring sedan...only problem is I'd have to get a holed drilled into each side window to attach those to. Just went out and checked...using the oem van arms you'd get an 1 3/4" of travel - checked my 40's cowl and I have 2" of travel, but I think it's out of adjustment because I think it can open up alittle higher than that. To make a new cam arm would let you increase that travel if you wanted more than what she could give stock. Next questionis what AC set up are you planning on using?..I want AC for my 40 too. Are you going to use vitnage air, southern air...or what? And what vent configuration do you plan on?...flat bar lower vents w/controls?
I am looking at Vintage Air but haven't decided for sure yet. First, I have to see how much room I have. Thanks.
Just installed the one from Rocky Hinge. Nice little unit with a micro swith to shut it off in the closed position.
Forget which one I used on my '38 Chevy, but as long as I hold the button down, the vent will open and close indefinitely. The motor spins a concentric wheel attached to the vent. There's plenty of pause time at the bottom of the stroke to lift my finger off the button and have the vent shut tight against the seal. Same thing at the top. Works great.
Looked at all the vent motors I could find when putting air in wifes 39 and couldn't find anything that would fit in the small space. Ended up modifying the cowl linkage and handle and had just enough room on the left side of the evaporator housing. My wife insisted the cowl vent remain operational in spite of the art work.
Here's an article on a 38 Ford coupe with AC and OEM cowl vent. http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/online012.htm
Hey Rock I put a vintage air unit in my 41 with only slight modification of the linkage, and thats with a recessed firewall. 41ply P.S. Rock on I love the build
As far as AC goes, you may want to check out this site. www.oldairproducts.com I installed one of their "Hurricane" units in my 1948 Plymouth. It was the most compact unit I could find. Nearly the same size as the original heater. I don't have it completed yet, but all the components are mounted. You might have enough room to retain your original cowl vent mechanism. The website provides dimensions of the units.
Do you have or do you plan on hood louvers? I ask this because if you do then be advised that engine heat goes right from the louvers to the cowl vent when it is open. I poked louvers in the hood of my '40 because they should have them and would do it again, but I did not foresee this issue. I thought this might figure into your decision process.
You must have put the Gen II mini in. I don't think you can get the Compac in without moving the linkage and I'm afraid the mini isn't big enough for the heat load we get down south in July and August.
No louvers. Therefore, no worries. I can see how that would bring the engine heat right into the cockpit, however. Good point to make.
I used the Rocky Hinge unit and I like it a lot. It works very smoothly and has adequate torque. Ibuil a small but sturdy mounting bracket for it and adapted the OEM linkage to it. It freed up a bunch of room under the passenger side of the dash! It's hard to take pictures tha show how it looks, however.
I did mine old school, used a power wing window unit from a U-Pull, $7.00. There no stops tho. Thats the way we did them in the 50s.
a center threaded connector at the vent, and piece of All-thread with a collar, either a washer soldered on or two nuts jammed together, inside dash to keep it form moving instead of the vent and a flat on the outside to recieve the set screw of a crank handle. Saw it on a '27 T touring.
I've done 2 or 3 of these over the years. Used VW rabbit rear wiper motor and 1/4 heim ends on threaded rod. Used center poll double throw switch. All have worked great.
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