Hey guys my oil filter insert does not have a hex head inside to remove it. Donor motor is out of a 78 Lincoln Versaille. I installed it in a 1950 Ford shoebox but I need to have the 90 degree oil filter housing. I have it from ford racing but I can't figure out how to remove the old one. Can anyone help??
Look up inside the threaded part that the oil filter screws onto, as I recall there is an allen head bolt inside that you turn to remove the old one. The new Ford Racing 90 degree part should have come with a second threaded part that will screw into the block once the old one is gone. Doing this one from memory, so I might be wrong. Don
I stuck a Allen all the way inside like four inches .. I didn't hit anything. is it at an angle??? the hole is perfectly round and smooth.
You can try removing it by using two "jam nuts" on the threaded stub.Jam nuts are thinner than regular nuts and that allows for using two. Screw on one nut fully, screw on the second one and then tighten them against one another securely. Turning the inner nut should loosen the the threaded nipple. Any well stocked hardware supplier or machine shop should be able to supply the jam nuts in that thread size for about a buck apiece or less. Ray
Some are just a pipe nipple. Like was said earlier you can use a large easy out or a pipe wrench to back it out.
If you are using the Ford 90 degree adapter the nipple needs to stay in the block for the adapter to attach to,the adapter should have the nipple for the filter. I run one on my Comet and just put one on a swapped out 302.A nipple from any 289,302 or 351 will work if you are missing one. ROY.
Now that I think about it, you guys are right, the adapter probably screws on to the existing male threads. I recently removed an oil cooler adapter that was on a 351 roller motor I bought and the oil cooler had an insert that had female threads to go on to those male threads. Not sure what the 90 degree adapter comes with, but that might be how it is too. Don
Well I'm gonna try the jam nut solution because the 90 degree oil filter housing comes with the threaded insert to install on the block . its already on the adapter . lemme try the jam nut and I'll get back to yall thanks!
Why not take the one off the adapter? If you screw up the threads on the one in the block and DON'T get it out you 'll be screwed. Wait, I just saw that you got it from Ford Racing. If it is this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6880-A50/?rtype=10 I have used a lot of them and the threaded bolt is female and goes over the stock nipple (hee hee, I said nipple)
IF its a genuine FORD RACING adapter, the new fitting will thread over the original stock fitting or nipple. Maybe the one you have is a chinese copy, or maybe F.R. has changed to a cheaper version to save money, I dont know. Even Speedway Motors has the unit, you can see on-line what and how it attatches. If you MUST remove your old fitting/nippple, just use a vice grips or pipe wrench and first tape over the threads and maybe you can save them. Two very thin pieces of hard wood will also work to save the threads. Most Ford dealers have it in stock, not a big deal. It will only be moderately tight, and has always been in oil, so there will not be any corrosion. Center punch, double-nut, what ever it takes to get it off, TR
All the ones I have used use a female attachment over the stock nipple!! Maybe Ford changed their design! ROY.
Mine is a genuine ford racing part #D23HA and the end that screws into the block comes with a insert that insert also has no way to screw it on just hand thread it on so weird. Before I go ape shit on this thing I really hope Ford didn't cast this in !!! like I said its a 302 out of a Lincoln versaille 1978. Ohe well here goes nothing!
Just looked up Ford torque spec in 65 manual to be 60-100 ft-lbs (not in-lbs). The point being is that the nipple may be a bit tight. I've only seen the hex head style, however still surprised why the high torque spec
Sir, that is so every time you unscrew the oil filter you dont unscrew the nipple with it and it gets tossed by accident with the old filter. A properly tightened oil filter requires only a small amount of actual torque by design. I assure anyone reading this, the OEM nipple comes out with hand tools such as mentioned several times already. TR
Guys, here you go a way to remove the nipper without hurting the threads just in case you have to use it again. Wait for it................................................................................... take a nut 3/4 X 16 from a hardware store or your junk nuts and bolts. Now cut the nut long ways down one side all of the way thru using a die grinder and cut-off wheel or even a hack saw. Clean all of the oil off of the threads of the nipper. Now screw on the nut and tighten/clamp down tight with a pair of vice-grips and screw that puppy off!! Now you not only have the little nipper where you want it, its threads are also left in perfect reusable condition, best of luck, TR
I bumped this up to help the O/P and NOT for any other eason, and to also help anyone following this thread. Again, this is not the Ford Racing adapter. The F.R. adapter will thread over the original nipple, done. A man that I had built several engines for A.C. Cobra Kit cars said too it can be Ford Taurus or even possible a older 460 truck application. The adapter shown here, is only a O.E.M. stock part, probably a N.O.S. piece. I hope the O/P gets things dialed in so he can cruise his hot rod this weekend, enjoy your weekend everyone, TR
Screw it I got cold feet and just ordered the ford racing part # m-6880-a50. I cant remember where I bought the one that I have already it was so long ago just gonna have to eat it . this adapter is costing me big jeez. Thanks for all your help guys really!
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