This is probably a dumb question, but does anyone know about how much abuse a stock 49-51 Ford rearend will take? I'm debating over using an 8.8", a 9", or just going the super-budget route and sticking with the stock rear, if it'll take what I'm throwing at it. Plan is for a 302 (300 hp, maybe 325hp if I'm lucky) and an AOD. Anyone done anything similar to this? I'm not gonna race it, just want to make sure it'll hold up to daily driving, without fragging as soon as I stomp on the go pedal.
49-51 Diffs will take anything a Flathead could put out even a highly modified one but I know from experience a sbc 265 or Olds 303 will send them to gear heaven in no time.
I drove mine with a 300hp sbf 302 and c4 for a year and beat the hell out of it. It was on bias ply tires. The only thing with this combo is that it screams on the freeway. Go with the Maverick rear end mine is a 2.79 and cruises on the freeway like a dream. The rearend swap took less than 2 hours by myself in the driveway on jack stands. It still will leave marks as I do it in front of my neighbors house every once in a while to rub it in that he hasn't fixed his ride in the 3 years I have lived across the street from him.
The overdrive should help with RPM's on the highway. An 8.8 rear end is easier to find than a Maverick unit around here, plus most of them have disc brakes and a lot of them have 3.73's and a trac-loc.
Not sure you'll find a 8.8 that is as easy tp swap as the maveric, comet rear. Stock 8 in. will take 400 hp i believe.
forgot to add pic. rear shock x member is comming out. It hits the floor pan. my mistake DAaa rear end was a bolt in
As I understand it, the only additional work you'd have to do with the 8.8 is shorten it on the one side to correct the pinion offset and make it the right width, (using a passenger-side axle on the driver side) everything from then on is the same as getting a maverick/comet rear, as far as changing the spring locations, etc. Am I right?
Intriguing...you mean you didn't have to change a thing? just bolted right in? because as I've understood it, you have to change the spring perches no matter what rear end you go with...
I did the explorer rear end shorten one side deal, but I already have a stocker in place with my 4 link and plan to run it till she gives out. Depends on who you ask about the stocker but some guys will swear that will hold up fine and others say they are not worth there weight. The fewer older rodders I have talked to about it all said they remember the weak link being the axle shafts. If you want a good thread on the stock rear and explorer swap see here... http://www.shoeboxford.com/members/forum/openthread.cfm?forum=1&ThreadID=24948#140908
I used a maverick rear end. found one at a local pick your part on half off day $40 bucks. It bolted right end, yes you are correct just move or relocate the spring perches. Very easy.
If you use lowering blocks it will bolt right in it's 1/8 inch on each side if that. I have been driving mine like that for 2 years. You use a u-joint out of for a 67 AMC American with the 3.3L 6 and an automatic Part number are GMB: 210-2173 Neapco: 1-2173 Precision: 498 Spicer: 5-2173
Guess I'll have to go out to the junkyard and see what there is out there... Thanks for giving me that link 51fordor
I ran the stock rear end this summer with A 302 and A C4 trans with no problems. But the 4:10 gears weren't that great with a 3spd. Just converted to a 65 mustang 8 inch.
how does the width of the mustang rear compare to the shoebox rear(i thought they were wider)? i believe shoebox rears are 57" wide but not 100% certain. my tires are hard enough to get out, maverick rears are slightly skinnier but not sure if it really make a difference in getting my wheels out...
I've got 225-75x15 radials on the back with 3 inch lowering blocks. I have to jack it up so the suspention is stretched right out and it's still hard to get them out.
From what I know the stock rear is 57"wide and I'm pretty sure the mustang rear is a quarter inch wider. So it's not to bad. I have 1" blocks in the back and the tries come off with no problem. I think I am going to switch them out for 2" inch blocks and see what happens. I had 3" blocks in it with the stock rear and it was a pain to get the tires off I had to let the air out of them with the suspension stretched out. The mustang axle tubes are tapered and with the 3" blocks it sat to low. That's why I changed them out.
I have a 305 chevy V8 and 350 automatic transmission connected to the stock rear axle in my 1950 Ford coupe. I don't hammer down on the gas pedal at green lights, but I do like to drive it fast on the freeway. I have been driving it like this for a year and a half and so far so good. if I break it I will install something else, a 9", Mustang, or Maverick rear end, but until then I just drive it.
I snapped an axle with a almost stock, 239 Flatty in my old '50 Club Coupe. It broke almost perfectly where the spline ends... Had to take the thrid member out.. Luckily I found a place that had another axle as I was in no position to do a rear end swap at the time. I personally wouldn't chance it, but there are others who have had better luck.
Here is some 8.8 info you might find useful: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Explorer8_8.html
I swapped an 8" from a 65 falcon in mine recently (51) it was 57 1/2 wide. I think the same as a 65/66 mustang on the other hand I gave my stock rear to a memeber on here he is running one on his coupe behind a healthy SBC and 4 speed he hasnt broke it yet after a couple years but we figured he will sooner or later so a spare will be nice to have.
Put a 1976 Granada in my 51 coupe. Used a 302 with c-4 and fatman motor mounts. The rear end bolted right up with 2" lowering blocks--changed driveline to a chevy with proper length
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