home made tools and equipment...

there's numerous places to get these parts.

my weekly metal work blog www.themetalsurgeon.com

 

the metalsurgeon, Care to share some of the dimentions on the planishing hammer project?

 

sure ,you can down load as a PDF off this link


http://www.fournierenterprises.com/cart/product.php?productid=16891&cat=23&page=1


my weekly metal work blog www.themetalsurgeon.com

 

$9345?!?!

 

PLUS SHIPPING, and probably a crating fee

 

For that price, two strippers should deliver it, set it up, and show me how to use it.

 

Home made guided helve hammer. Rough Shaping, quick like. (not the neighbors friend) LOUD, CRUDE, easy to build and works better than any shaping machine I have used yet. No messing around with die heights like on a pullmax, adding height each multiple pass, one pass will normally do it. It puts the metal "down there" into the shape of the dies.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH9h6oBb8yI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmLQ42CbdFw
(kept breaking leaf springs, this was the fix, added a pivot, pulls the spring straight down now)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2CdusMRvkA
It ain't rocket science, just some bearings and a bundle of old jeep springs, some steel plate and very little machining.

Cutting dies from UHMW, simple as bolting a piece between the tool mounts, scribing a line with a sharpie, then sawing it out. Been working on a hot-wire like they cut rc foam planes with now for a couple of years. Not got back on it yet other than build the frame from a old coping saw. it smacks the dies so hard together you have to consider them expendables.

All the pulley size-c-c distance dimensions on one of them videos there. A 3phase sewing machine motor with clutch (instant on, off), vfd to adjust speed (tunes dies so they don't hit that weight/spring/speed to just quiver and not do crap) Lower tool mount, 1x1 square stock, riding in slider, adjustable in a 3" square carrier. HOW to build over on metalmeet.com. The measurements on all the stroke-etc on the first video when it was mounted on a old glover ewheel frame I built years ago.. Now on a big fat heavy frame made from plasma cut plate and 20lbs of welding rod tying it all together. I keep bolting things to it like ballast, it beats the metal into submission and keeps on going like that energizer bunny.

If you ain't rich, a movie star, you'd better be able to build your own toys. I ain't rich nor personable enough to be on tele. All you rich "real metal shapers" want to run it? post a video of your yoder, pullmax, or?? moving the metal as fast as my homebuilt one here. PM me the video link here or email it to me.

(Baileigh has one I consider to be equal or "close") A Nice rig that is "pretty too"... could be a movie star huh?? It'd look better with strippers draped over it huh??

I need a soundproof room.. perhaps the next project?? insulation??

 

X2 for wanting to know part #'s for those bearings.

 

i could build you one for way less using the same components.There profit margin is huge!!

my weekly metal work blog www.themetalsurgeon.com

 

Home made ball joint tool - one cap bolt, nut, washer, and a big socket. Figured I could crank the nut down and it would drive the ball joint out - the bolt was a tad too long so I tapped it in with a hammer, and it popped the joint loose after the second tap. Worked so well I left it all in a bag in the cabinet in my old van.

 

Hanging Rack for Air Tools- super simple. Picked up a dozen couplers from a clearance bin @Harbor Freight (under a buck a pop) and welded them to a 'found' piece of angle. Lagged it to one of the loft joists over the desk. Total investment: nine dollars.

 

Here is my air tool rack



There is a little bend at the edge to stop them from sliding off.

 

Nice rack T Hudson!! lol

Ron

 

coupla nice air tool racks there, drcliff & THudson! Mine is inverted compared to yours, and holds the little ones like the die grinders, body saw, angle grinder, punches & nibbler. It's a 2x2, just drilled to fit the male air couplers, and mounted on the top shelf of the rack where I keep all the bits for those things (and right next to the welding table where I do most of that stuff). The bigger tools (impact, ratchet wrenches, air hammer, etc.) are all in my crib, where I keep the sockets & bits to feed them. Sanders -- DA, inline -- are over w/ the paint stuff, just hangin' around on the shelf...

 

thats cool, i would have never thought of that!

 

Nice! That's kinda what I wanted to make but I was inspired by those super-cheap steel couplers.

 

I owe it all to you buddy.

 

We used your style years ago in the shop I worked in. When I saw how much cleaner Youngsters design was, I borrowed it, oh hell I ripped it off big time.

 

Header flange dies and SS header.


Ago

 

Here is the other piece of testing Equipment I made to go along with my tester box. With this box, you plug it into the back of the tow rig, set the box next to the left rear tire, make sure the tow rig is in Park and parking brake set, turn the ignition switch on, apply pressure to the brake pedal, slide the gear selector into reverse & test,. The box should light up to show 12 volts, and light the circuits that you've activated, along with trailer brake circuit if you have a brake controller in the cab. Now turn the left turn and right turn. Test complete. This box has sold lots of Fuses, and found trailer lighting issues on the truck.
For your information this box contains one electric brake magnet inside so brake controller will recognize the trailer plugged into the tow vehicle.
Parts for this box made up from parts gathered at Radio Shack, and my local trailer supply house. Use L.E.D. lights for brightness.

 

awesome!!
i'll put the vehicle tester on my to-do list,never thought about a magnet,i happen to have some laying around....coulda used it this past weekend.

 

Why is that planishing hammer so much?
I have one of these and it works great!
Love Mittler
http://www.mittlerbros.com/index.ph...ishing-hammer-with-9-radius-steel-anvils.html

And their expensive one is still less...
http://www.mittlerbros.com/index.ph...mer/single-head-power-hammer-kit-mounted.html

 

the second unit is less on the heavy duty side,than the first.The first is still 7.5k.The Pro line machine does have machined components,which are nice.But how much extra do you want to pay for machined components versus my non machined frame of which works in exactly the same motion.I have the exact air components as the pro line as well.I guess they are greedy and like there mark up!.

my weekly metal work blog www.themetalsurgeon.com

 

Some simple projects... But I hope it helps some people.

 

You guys may get a kick out of this one. I came across a free tea service cart made of wrought iron, to I turned it into a tool cart using nothing but scrap metal that was in my scrap pile. I also cannibalized a 3 drawer craftsman tool box that was broken for the drawers.

So all in all, I have no money into this, just some time.

 

I get an image of a someone pushing that around the wrecking yard for the customers. Hammer? Wrench? Sockets?

 

Yeah, like the cigarette girls in the old movies.

 

Get yer sockets here! Might find myself saying that around the garage now...

 

Might as well add this one to put it with the other tools...

During the "restoration" of a '65 Fairlane, while re-assembling the car I came up with a door installation fixture as the doors were quite heavy and we didn't need any paint chips....
I had seen some of the cradle style door lifts that you could add to your floor jack, but I have a problem how the cradle supports the complete weight of the door across the lower edge of a door skin. Too much risk of paint damage in my view. So I came up with another version that would support the weight across a wider area on the inner door, for less risk of damage to any visible area.
Here's the basic form, with some pipe receivers using set screws. The support braces are bent from electrical EMT and covered in pipe insulation to protect the door's finish, and roll bar padding (we had some left over :thumbup on the bottom support.....







The support braces also help to keep the door oriented in a vertical position, to keep the door from flopping back and forth (as you may experience with the cradle style). This will help prevent paint damage/chips from excessive door movement during the install.





Notice nothing touches the edge of the door skin....





Once hinges are snug, loosen set screws for outer support brace, lower a couple inches, remove outer support brace, and simply pull jack toward rear of car to clear door.

 

Nice! , I am going to copy the jack door alignment tool. I am going to need them when I go to align my 55 chrysler doors. I swear the door was stamped on the inaide "SS Titanic" lol

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