Okay, after an extensive search here and on the net... I have decided to pose this question to my fellow HAMBers. In regard to lake pipes and lake pipe caps. The range of pipe diameters range from 1.5 to 2 inches on commercially available pipes. This range seems to affect the size of flange hole (obviously) and the center to center bolt measurement used for the caps. There doesn't seem to be a standard as far as the flange measurements are concerned. So my question is... what is the most popular pipe size? I am trying to make custom caps and I am really torn on what size pipes to accommodate. Or do most who have lake pipes make or have them made? Engines and exhausts are not my thing so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Are the caps themselves the same size, just the hole location is different? If so, make one cap size with an elongated hole. Use a chromed stovebolt and the head will cover the holes, only talking 1/4" each side.
darkk Thanks for the reply. My design hides the bolts all together. I will have threaded studs on the back of my caps. I thought of using the smallest or largest measurements with the idea of reversing your suggestion. The purchaser can elongate the hole in the flange. I am just a little worried that doing so may extend the whole to far in or too far out, thus reducing the flange's usefulness.
The typical lake pipes available today come in a 2" diameter..Original ones, produced in the 1950'S and 60's were, by in large, 1 3/4'' diameter..I would imagine its also a personal perference..
I'm glad grf-x started this thread 'cuz I've been wanting to ask a lake pipe question. How many of these are fakers, just hanging off the sides for looks? I want to make my '36 roadster that I'm building multi-personality by having some lake pipes and skirts on her occasionally. Will I be shunned by the HAMB crowd if the lake pipes are just hanging under the running boards or did the old timers make some sort of cut out stubs on the exhaust system to connect to and I need to save face by doing that?
You won't be shunned by me. Half length at the back of the boards or full length, does not mattter if it goes with the build style. If someone at a show gets down to look under the boards, just step on his hand by mistake
Not shunned by me either...I have "fakes" (meaning they are not hooked up) on my Caddy... If you want to see the car...and the build, go here:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329070&highlight=the+best+55+caddy+build R-
The long style on the customs were all fakes. The lakers that were just caps were the real ones that could be uncorked.
lake pipes and spot lights were fake on alot of customs most states had inspections and you couldn,t pass with 2 working spot lights or exhaust without muffers .all lights had to work so with just 2 screws you could take off pass then put back on if the pipes were hook up it would be alot harder to do but some were real
Speedway has some really nice two inchers in stainless, but the car ran better with three inchers down by the frame. Decide if they are for looks or for racin.
Glad to see this topic come up. I'm "on the fence" on long lakers and intentionally left the rocker trim off my Olds for that possibility. Unfortunately, it looks like the best way to hook them up would be by going through the frame which I won't do because at the point frame strength is critical as I found out by the change in carb linkage clearance at the firewall when jack stands were under the front suspension or under the frame farther back.
I appreciate all the replies. I always learn a lot here. I'm still not sure I am convinced on which way to go. Really would be a shame to design a cap only to have it not fit most pipes (providing that lake pipe runners take to the design to begin with). I guess more replies would help. So I have gathered 2" is most popular. Question is now... of the lake pipes installed, are they commercial (if so what brands?) pipes or custom fabbed by hard core rodders?
I prefer slant cut ends that are functional! But if you want to accomodate multiple bolt patterns / flange sizes, make the cap the largest size you measure and mill a horizontal T-slot on the back that way the bolts could slide to any mounting width.
get another lakes pipe cap and copy the spacing they must be standard i purchased a car with working lakes pipes and now think it is the coolest deal ever, they sound off nice cruising and pulling mountains i has 4 mufflers and tailpipes i am rebuilding a couple other sleds and on the ones that I can clear the frames i want to do the same set ups on them i have a olds with a GM frame that the pipes will work on real nice as it has car headders on and they are slightly below the frame rails i am going to make my own bracket to mount the pipes and weld them below the pipes. I guess i am kinda lucky having a exhaust bender and just ordered a plasma which should help to make the saddele cuts fabrication is not quite as thrilling when a person gets older and the body gets tired and worn, power tools are good!!!
eugene vik One would think they are standard... But my research has proven they are all over the place. When we originally designed the cap we decided to go with a universal 2 bolt exhaust flange. Same shape with extended bolt holes. Assuming there is some sort of standard. Boy was I wrong. Caps from Speedway, O'brient Trucker and the lake pipe manufacturer are all different. Ranging from anywhere between 3 1/16" - 3 5/8" on center. It's exhausting (pun intended) trying to figure out a solution. It would be nice to make it available to all with out having to heavily modify an expensive set of pipes to accommodate the caps. So from everyone's point of view here... would offering an un-drilled un-tapped set of caps be acceptable? Do you thinks some people would be willing to drill and tap the caps if they like them enough?
Ain't that the truth! Come Spring and I'm still kick'n (chemo right now) I'll have to take another look at the head pipe to frame situation. It got a little complicated with the 324 heads/exhaust maifolds on the 303 in the '50 chassis.
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