Projects My 1950 Ford Shoebox Project

Here's my thought, and I'm not a brake expert so take it for what its worth.

The fluid is getting super-heated somewhere. As the fluid gets hot it expands, creating a hard pedal feel.

Next time you have this happen jump out and check each wheel for excessive heat. Yes, it will burn your hand so be careful! If you can't tell from the outside, reach under the car and get your hand NEAR the backing plate.

One wheel dragging can cause this problem. If you bleed the brakes you'll probably also find the fluid from one wheel is darker the the others, indicating burned fluid.

Keep us posted!

 

ahh point. i am going to try to figure out the problem today ( i hope)

 

well, i just took it for a ride to the gas station. then i got stranded till they cooled down. the brake pedal was hard as a rock. i checked the temperature on the wheels like you said and the rear's were fine but the fronts were hot. at least i got it home once it cooled down

 

The shoes on the drivers side looks backwards to me. The longer shoe (the one with the longer lining) should be on the rear side of drum. Not saying that the problem but it doesn't look right. Look at post 221 (pass side CORRECT) compared to post 231 (drivers side).

Also the second pic of the master has what looks like open exhaust right next to it. That could be the cause of over heating the fluid and resulting problems.

Hope you that helps

 

I think you're on to something in both cases Stude.

Seven, since we now surmise that the fronts are the problem we can address that. By the time we're done you should plan to resurface the drums as the heat may have warped them some.

 

good eye stude. i wouldnt have noticed the shoe being on incorrectly. i see that now. i felt the master cyl to see if it was even warm after driving it and it wasnt (exhaust didnt seem to be heating it) but even the outside of the front wheels was substantially warmer than the rears

 

Does the master cyl push rod have an adjuster in it. I'm wondering if the rod is to long and when the brakes heat up some there is no room for expansion and therefore applying the brakes as the wheel cyl is the only place for the fluid to go. If there is try backing it off a little. The master cyl looks to be rebuilt and new internals may have changed the free play length in the linkage. Other than that I'm out of ideas. Good luck

 

hey "big creep". i see you have a shoebox with a small block chev in it? (looks good chop etc.. i didnt even know)

my question to you ( i have been searching ) is how did you find a set of headers to squeeze / hug the block? Mine are rubbing on the tire at my lowest slam point on the bags. And with this new brake problem, i am sure this might have something to do with it also (daddio and stude on to something). I heard sandersons or pie cut ram horns??? I currently have the huge fenderwell cutout hot rod headers and they are killin me in more ways than one.

 

these seem to be the tightest block hugging headers. but for $300+ i would want to know if someone has lowered a shoebox with these on a sbc.

Link to the Sanderson CC2 Huggers

Pic

 

You have a master cyl push rod adj problem and the fluid is not returning to the master cyl properly. If it is not right on the adj the fluid will stay in the wheel cyl and bleed back very slowly to the master cyl that is why your brakes are getting hot. Once it bleeds back they will release.

 

i can pull the rubber boot back on the master and see the push rod. but i dont see any way to adjust it though.

 

Also make sure you have the lines right if it is a dual action master cyl. Make sure the brake rod has a small amount of play before it pushes in.

 

ill post pictures of my headers tomorrow, the driver side is a sanerson one, the pass. is a jba header. the driver side one hugs the block and makes a quick turn, missing the stock column.

 

Join me for a Beer and a couple pics to ease the tension on this d@mn brake problem

 

Under that rubber boot should be a pushrod. That pushrod is what translates the brake pedal movement into plunger movement, which in turn creates hydraulic pressure activating the brakes. You should be able to wiggle that pushrod laterally (front to back) with maybe 1/16" play. If not its too tight.

There should be a nut on one end of that shaft (9/16" I'm guessing), and probably the pedal side of the rod. Turning that nut should increase/decrease the length of the pushrod. Turn it until you have about 1/16" of play, but 1/8" would be way too much.

Let us know what you find. We'll get you through it!

 

My friend I would enjoy a beer and I want to say that the car looks great. I like what you have done. It looks bad ass lowered. I will toast a beer with you in a couple weeks when I get home from this shit hole they call Afghanistan.

 

Saw a couple of shoeboxes, but didn't see yours.. Did you go on Sat., Sun. or both? This thread makes me think about putting airride on my shoebox..

 

shes looks beautiful!!!!!

 

did you get a chance to take a picture? i think i am going to get the sanderson CC2's. how come you only used the sanderson header on the drivers side?

i appreciate you keeping my freedom alive and your services. I'll have another beer for you tonight

i went last year to the southwest nationals. this year i had this brake issue to deal with when it was going on. i will be at the one in March though along with Viva!

thanks BC!

 

Very Nice

 

Looking great, love the stance!

 

thanks thats a damn nice chop you got there. you are in AZ also?

 

thanks farmer, nice Plymouth!

 

Yea I live over in East Mesa. We should grab a beer sometime.

 

You've really turned that car around.

Great job!

Rich

 

yea, be nice to have a beer with a fellow shoeboxer )

thanks rich. your avatar cracks me up. i got a tattoo on the back of my head. but not like that one!

 

Although my build is FAR from being done i have to say thanks to a few people. My good friend Adam and Tim Faultner helped a LOT as they did with my Full Size Chevy Truck i did 2 years ago. Thanks to my buddy Ted for help on the Engine and Timing and Balancer. Thanks to Kevin "Blaze" Blaisdell at Just Plain Trick for ALL the work to get it laying low (2.5 months). I built him a new Website also, check him out if you need help in AZ. And above all, i gotta say thanks to ALL the HAMBer's here that help me almost every day with troubleshooting and knowledge!

 

ill inbox u in a week or two for sure to get together.

 

My wife sad you have a very nice green color on your shoebox

Nice build

/Stefan

 

haha, well at least your wife likes it. i hated that color when i first got it. once i added interior and wheels i fell in love with it