Projects What!!? another 27 on 32 chassis!??. Scratch build body.

Hey Junkman, do you have a copy of that issue that you can scan for us?

 

Fired the T up at the weekend - still here if you want to borrow the tub.

 

Cheers Mate! I will come and get it soon.

David

 

Nice to know that someone is reading! ( apart from my friends and fellow car club members) A bit of a slow start but I hope to pick the pace up soon. I have had a lot going on lately.

David

 

I've been away for a few weeks on holidays - any more progress???

 

Never enough time! I got hold of a model A front crossmember (thanks Marcus) It needed all the usual repairs...

IMG 0750 by Mindover posted Oct 10, 2011 at 1:02 PM

IMG 0749 by Mindover posted Oct 10, 2011 at 1:02 PM

I chamfered the edges of the cracks and I welded them up with the mig.

IMG 0751 by Mindover posted Oct 10, 2011 at 1:17 PM

IMG 0758 by Mindover posted Oct 10, 2011 at 1:02 PM

After this was all ground and cleaned up with a sander its as sound as a bell. I may reinforce the top of the center later.

IMG 0759 by Mindover posted Oct 10, 2011 at 1:02 PM

Cleaning up the penetration on the inside was a chore.
David

 

As Dennis said in order to get the car to sit 'right' and have some suspension the back of the frame needs to be modified. My car is going to sit a little lower than Dennis's rod. I decided not to 'z' the frame but to reshape the original metal so that I could get more drop ( a larger kick up) at the back of the chassis. I re- shaped the chassis so that instead of the original 6" drop I now have 10" this should allow the car to sit quite low but the chassis looks sort of stock and there is little evidence of it having been modified.

Below is a photo of one side done and the other still stock. (The grey rail is modified)

IMG 0799 by Mindover posted Oct 10, 2011 at 1:28 PM

David

 

Here is a shot of the chassis leg on its own.

IMG 0796 by Mindover posted Oct 10, 2011 at 1:28 PM

I have also cut it down in length.

David

 

Love your work David and would you mind detailing how you 'modified' the rail for another 4". It doesn't look as if it were cut and welded so if you have a choice little trick you can share we would appreciate it, thanks oj

 

In this photo you can see I did not fabricate a new rear section and there is no welding on the corners. I reshaped the existing metal. I did not want it to look fabricated.

IMG 0803 by Mindover posted Oct 10, 2011 at 1:28 PM

David

 

Woah, loving that rail ... good to see you didn run straight for the grinder, i really like that. think i'll follow along with this one..

MS Aaron

 

Subscribed!

Is there some way, you, as the originator of the thread could check at least # of subscribers? I am not the guy who knows, but I am sure there are those who do. Anybody?

 

Thanks for subscribing guys! I will be doing the same thing to the other chassis rail tomorrow. I really have to pull my finger out with this or I will not get it done in time.

David

 

Reshape? Dang, I'd be impressed if you moved that much around in sheetmetal but heavy frame material? Dangggg! Are you using heat AND jedi mind tricks?!
VERY nice work!

 

Well I managed to re shape the other chassis leg today. I might get this chassis on one piece fairly soon!

This is what it looked like this morning, the pattern was taken from the other side chassis rail...

IMG 0821 by Mindover posted Oct 24, 2011 at 5:04 PM

after about five hours work I have a chassis rail that is re-shaped.

IMG 0822 by Mindover posted Oct 24, 2011 at 5:04 PM

IMG 0805 by Mindover posted Oct 10, 2011 at 1:28 PM

David

 

Geez david, Thats Art.. i want to get my a model tudor which is on 32 rails lower but in Australia, without having extensive engineering done and tests we aren't able to cut between the suspension mounts of our frames, Can i have your permission to have an engineer look at your work here on this thread to see if i'd be able to try monouver my frame up like yours?.... i figure i might get away with it seeing it isn't cut.
Thanks Aaron MS

 

Aaron I have sent you a PM.

David

 

And what is that 'slapper' sitting on the bench for? You messing with us David? Probably telling John to toss out some crazy tools and scatter them around just to see what we make of that, right? I can see the order desk at Eastwood right now..'you want a frame slapper? yuh sure bud, we got just the thing' You Brits have a sense of humor for sure.
Keep up teh good work, oj
btw/ why are you in a hurry, you've mentioned it a couple times and that seems out of character for you.

 

Your Lucky you can see the bench, its often buried in tools!. I am trying to get this built for my youngest daughters prom at the end of May so I need to aim to get it done for the beginning of May. I will have help with some of the other work but I have to get the chassis and body made. I am so busy at work I am having difficulty finding time. I am working on my house as well and also filming for another DVD. I will knock the house on the head soon so I can get more time on this.

David

 

I don't know how David did this, but heat bending is used to straighten damaged bridge beams. Some posts here on how to straighten bent frame rails with the technique as well.

If this is what David used, he has indeed taken it to a "Jedi " level as you say.

Again, I do not know the limits of the technique, nor if this is what David used, but this is how bridge beams are straightened with it, courtesy DOT (http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/bridge/steel/02.cfm)


2.3.1 Vee Heat

The vee heat is the most fundamental pattern used to straighten strong axis (category S) bends in steel plate elements. As seen in Figure 6, a typical vee heat starts with a very small spot heat applied at the apex of the vee–shaped area using an oxy–fuel torch. When the desired temperature is reached (usually around 650°C or 1200°F for mild carbon steel), the torch is advanced progressively in a serpentine motion toward the base of the vee. This motion is efficient for progressively heating the vee from top to bottom. The plate will initially move upward (Figure 6a) as a result of longitudinal expansion of material above the neutral axis producing negative bending. The cool material adjacent to the heated area resists the normal thermal expansion of the steel in the longitudinal direction. As a result, the heated material will tend to expand, or upset, to a greater extent through the thickness of the plate, resulting in plastic flow.
At the completion of the heat, the entire heated area is at a high and relatively uniform temperature. At this point the plate has moved downward (Figure 6b) due to longitudinal expansion of material below the neutral axis producing positive bending. As the steel cools, the material contracts longitudinally to a greater degree than the expansion during heating. Thus, a net contraction occurs. The net upsetting is proportional to the width across the vee, so the amount of upsetting increases from top to bottom of the vee.

Figure 6. Stages of movement during vee heat.
This variation produces a closure of the vee. Bending is produced in an initially straight member, or straightening occurs (if the plate is bent in the opposite direction to that of the straightening movement, Figure 6c). For many applications, it is most efficient to utilize a vee that extends over the full depth of the plate element but, partial depth vees may be applicable in certain situations. When using partial depth vees, the open end should extend to the edge of the element. The vee depth is varied by placing the apex at a partial depth location. The most typical partial depth vees are the three–quarter and half depth. Applications for partial depth vees will be discussed in later sections.

If this is what he used, I bet it cost a lot of gas.

 

All will be revealed...

David

 

What a tease!

 

I have managed to get a few hour on the chassis. I formed the center X members to shape and pushed them roughly into place for these photos. I have also got the front cross-member in place but not riveted. ( I plan on hot riveting the front cross-member.)

IMG 0850 by Mindover posted Nov 7, 2011 at 6:53 PM

IMG 0850 by Mindover posted Nov 7, 2011 at 6:53 PM

David

 

The hard part is done now. I intend to box in the rear kick up and the rear crossmember will be a tube suicide style.

IMG 0854 by Mindover posted Nov 7, 2011 at 6:53 PM

David

 

Frame is looking good David!! Hurry up, I want to see the body come together. LOL

 

Me too!

glad ya like it Jeff.

David

 

Chassis is in one piece now and got the engine running today! Cheers Glen!

David

 

I got the Flathead running yesterday with help from my good friend Glen and my mechanic Owen. It sounded great. Nothing like a running engine to spure you on!.

I got the chassis in one piece, its not completely finished but I thought I would have a bit of a brake frome the chassis and do a bit of bodywork today.

Like I said before I built a buck for the turtle deck twenty years ago but I decided to add a piece in to give me the depth of the wheel well rebate. (rabbit?)

This is one side of the buck with the new section in place...

IMG 0863 by Mindover posted Nov 12, 2011 at 2:13 PM

David

 

After cutting out a blank I began to shape one piece of the turtle deck. this panel will be made from two sections plus the wheelwell. The piece is not quite the finished shape in the photo. Once it is shaped at the top I will put the wheel well shape into it then do the swage (bead).

IMG 0862 by Mindover posted Nov 12, 2011 at 2:13 PM

,

David

,

 

Yes! Yes! Yes! So, how exactly are you shaping that David? Shrink then planish?