So I picked up my new soon to be daily driver. That is, as soon as I can get it running. So here the issue, I can start it but it wont stay running. The guy I bought it from said he was told its because it has an electric choke and it is suppose to have a manual choke. Step one when I got home was trying to locate a 12v constant power source. Can any buddy recommend what would be a good source for the choke. My other car has a dedicated source for the choke(Painless Wiring). Does any buddy recommend any other things I should check? Like I said the truck will start but wont stay running. If I sit in the engine compartment while starting, and hold the choke to what seems like the appropriate position it wants to stay running. Therefor, I agree its a choke issue. The dude told me it needs a new carb, but if I can find the right 12v source I should be fine, correct? Looking forward to this one. Thanks guys.
By the way, i threw in the dog picture because he was quick to jump in the bed and then didnt want top get out.
Congrats on the truck. It does sound like a choke issue. I wouldn't use a constant 12v source though. Use one that only provides power when the key is in the run position. That way it doesn't continually draw power and kill your battery.
Jon is right, it has a '57 grille in it, but it has the 59-60 turn signals and fenders. So most likely someone got a hold of a grille and used it. If only I could be so lucky...
Yep, 59 with a 57 grill. I was trying to find a 12v in the on key position. So yeah no draining of the battery. Thanks for the positive words though guys. Hopefully it will be on the road as a daily driver soon. Real soon.
should be 2 keyed hot wires off from the ignition switch, get out your test light and pick one, then of course throw a fuse inline and be good with it. or to test it you could even run a jumper to the battery and make sure that solves the problem.
Y'all sure it could be the choke? I don't even run one and my T fires up and runs great. Might be the Houston weather. If you're that sure of it, why not wire it open?
Do you really need a choke in San Pedro? I live @ about 6000 ft. in Colo and I don't have a choke at all on several cars. Push the go pedal all the way to the floor, release, then start. Works most days, unless it's really cold, then repeat as needed.
don't know the answer to the choke thing,but loose the rear lights & keep the happy faces now ya gotta take the Dane riding-but in the front.
Fatkoop, i tried doing that because my Deluxe will start everytime and hardly chokes at all(electric choke). It is starting to cool down a bit here but still in the 40-50's so not real cold. The engine is brand new rebuilt and hasn't run yet so I'm wondering if it's hard starting because of that in addition to the choke issue. We will see. I unfortunately dont get to work on it all week because I'll be out of town, but will get the choke wired up next weekend for sure. Please keep tracking this thread, I may need more troubleshooting help down the road.
53Olds, i intend to daily drive it. I think I am going to 3" drop axle front and axle flip the back with c notch. it has lowering springs in the back and removed leafs in the front. The motor is brand new rebuilt, I dont know how I feel about the trans so i may look at other options their. It had a 3 speed originally and I may go back to that since all the clutch stuff is still in place. Paint is not a top priority. Almost no rust at all, just a small patch near the hood latch.
So I got my choke wired up. It functions properly now. The truck will still not stay running. A bunch of stuff is missing off the carb but I didint think any of it would keep the truck from running. Anyways I rebuilt it but the kit I got was clearly not for the carb I have. I got a rebuild kit for a holley 2300. It looks similar on the outside but not once i get it pulled apart. The guy I bought the truck from told me he pulled the carb from a mid 60's 292. As stated before it has an electric choke instead of manual. I'm considering a new carb. Looking for suggestions. What would be the best route to go? Should I stay with a 2 bbl or go to a 4 bbl. If i get a 4 bbl will my intake work with an adapter or do I need a new manifold? I'll try to post a picture of the carb later and maybe someone can help me with identifying it.
So after rebuilding the carb and installing it back on the truck it ran until it got warm then went back to the same thing it was doing before. I was trying to wait for it to warm so I can tune it. But as soon as it was warm it shut off. Even if I keep the gas throttled it will stall out. I'm wondering if maybe its getting to much fuel? This has got me stumped. Kind of new to the carb thing so I can really use some help on this one. I'm used to diesels, because thats what I work on at work so not much carb experience but both my cars are helping me out with that. I hope some day I will be able to answer these questions for someone in my shoes.
I have the same proplem with he carb on my truck. I had it rebuilt but its still not together yet. So sorry no help on that one. Any luck on your end yet?
Bahumut- Yeah I figured it out. Turned out to be a bad condenser in the distributor. $6 later thing purs. However it is still not on the road. New problem is linkage for the stupid F#@kin Ford-O-Matic. The throttle rod was never installed on the truck, and no one has one. You would think that this trans was never put into the truck originally. tried car linkage but its not the same.
Glad to hear you got it sorted out, back to the Carb it looks like a motorcraft 2100/50 series. Kit cost about $15
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