Ratster reminded me that I haven't done an update on my project for awhile, so here are a few pics. I haven't had alot of time or money do work on the Essex this summer, but I'm back at it again. I had the frame sandblasted and got my new front end parts, so it was time to do a mock up. If you recall, the truck had a poorly installed Corvair IFS under it when I got it... The new drop I-beam setup... I moved the axle centerline forward a bit as I never really liked where it was with the 'Vair front. Today I bolted up a front fender to see how it lined up. I think it looks better. Opinions? Old... New... Question for the experts... Once I get the rest of the truck assembled, how much lower should the front end drop with the weight on it? It has a Posie's Superslide spring and the axle is currently blocked at ride height. Thanks!
Great to see an update! I think the new wheel position is bang on perfect ! Dont wait so long for the next update eh !!
Thanks guys! Hopefully I'll make better progress over the winter than I did this summer. My goal is to be back on the road with it for 2013, but that will depend alot on finances. Business has been slower this year than last year so the truck got ignored for awhile.
I'm starting to feel a little like a celebrity with a stalker. One of these years I'll drive it down to a show or two in your part of the world. You can look at it and touch it and pet it and name it George if you want. The Essex, guys, the Essex. Get your pervy minds out of the gutter!! Geez, some people!
Your Essex pickup is flat ass cool ! It looks much better with the straight axle in it, hope to see it finished soon, I've been driving the hell out of mine, just got it finished this spring. Have fun !
The front is way more better, now. Looks like the rear could stand to be nudged forward just a bit, too. FWIW, it lokks to me that the total weight should set it down just right. You got a really neat truck there.
Thanks guys! The rear axle looks off because the fender was mounted a bit crooked. I plan to fix that as well.
Nice to see some updates, keep up the good work and remember that if you ever come across 29 Essex coupe doors, we could sure use a drivers door to replace the one that flew off at the track. .
I'm still keeping an eye out for you, Moe! Haven't come across any yet, unfortunately. I was fairly productive in the shop today. I fabbed up some rad mounts and tacked them in place, bolted up the rear springs and axle so I could measure for u-bolts and bottom plates, plus I got all the dimensions needed for boxing plates. As soon as I have some time I'll head down to Loboy's Rod Shop and get Rick to cut them out with his CNC plasma machine.
Today I set the Essex cab back on the frame as I want to make some new cab mounts before I box the frame. I also wanted to see how much room I'll have for the engine. From the firewall to the rear of the front crossmember u-bolts is 28.5". From the rear of the block to the front of the damper is 25". I plan on using a short water pump and single-pulley belt setup. I think it's going to fit with room to spare. Depending on how low the engine sits in the frame I may not even need to notch the firewall for the distributor.
I did some more mocking up in the shop tonight. SBC haters can look away now. "Welders Series" engine mounts that I'll be using. Rick at Lowboys Rod Shop in Baldur MB made up some boxing plates and lower spring plates for me yesterday on his CNC plasma table. The engine somewhat located. Yes, I realise I still need to tilt it down at the trans to get the angles correct. It sure fits alot better than the slant-6 that was in it did! With the hood and rad shell mocked up. I'm thinking the whole engine is sitting a little low and should be raised up a couple of inches. I plan to run lakes headers and full fenders on this truck. Opinions? I'm planning to run a short water pump and single pulley setup on this engine. How much room between the lower pulley and the front spring u-bolts is needed? If I can slide the engine forward another inch or so I may not need to notch the firewall for distributor clearance.
Really looking sweet Al. I like the look of the Welder series mounts. What plans do you have for the box, I don't see anything in the shop?
Thanks! As for a box, I plan to either modify a stock 30's or 40's era box from something, or build a new one. The old one never looked right, it wasn't long or tall enough. Plus I really want an opening tailgate.
Hey there, I have a question regarding the placement of the mounting plates for the front bones, Are you planning to leave them on the outside of the frame or, are you going to put them on the inside of the frame after boxing is complete?.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> The reason I asked is when I was doing the mock up on the coupe I first placed them outside like you have them in the picture but I had to move them inside of the frame due to tire rub when making sharp turns.<o></o> <o> </o> Gary<o></o>
I agree that the engine should be mounted higher. Better for ground clearance, and fan positioning, lower rad hose fitting.
A chev short pump is 5 5/8" from pully surface to block long pump is 7 1/4" I got these measurments from a speedway catalog. Hope it helps.
Hey that is looking good. Real close to what I did to mine ten years ago. I am the only other Essex PU guy. Good luck.
I've got them turned so the tie-rod end mounts from the inside of the rail. I should have enough room for the tires to clear the bones, if not I'll move the mounting plates to the inside of the rails. I'll be lifting it up a few inches at least. Thanks for that info! I knew I'd seen it before somewhere but I couldn't remember the site. One of these days we have to meet at an event somewhere and park our trucks side by side. I'd love to see yours in person.
It's looking real good Al! If you want to scratch build a box(with tailgate) I would be happy to help!(I got a little experience there!)
Thanks Graham! I may take you up on that offer, too. Thanks Pete! I'm really hoping to take the truck from it's dated 70's disco style and make it look like an early 60's build.
Been a couple weeks without an update, so here goes... After spotting Da Tinman's engine-mounting jig post the other day, I whipped up my own version. It sure made mocking up the engine mounts a lot easier! Once it was finished I immediately put it to use. The transmission is held up with a jackstand for the time being. Once I had everything sitting exactly where I wanted it, I started making templates for trimming the engine mounts. The actual mounts trimmed and fitted, waiting to be welded. I raised the engine up quite a bit. This looks alot better. Mounts are welded up and the jig removed. Look at all the space around the engine!! Next project will be a transmission crossmember and mount.
That jig really saved me a pile of time. I mocked the engine up once before, using 2x4's, chain, a jack, and various other things to try to hold it in place. It was a major PITA. Using this jig and a jackstand under the trans tailshaft I was able to line everything up in a matter of minutes. I also wasn't scared of the engine tipping over and crushing my hands/arms while I was mocking up the engine mounts.
The Jalopy Journal
