Hey Guys, It is either a 259 or a 289. The guy I got it from said it was a 289. I have it running on all 8 cylinders now, but I have to spray a little bit if starting fluid in the carb. everytime I try to start it, or it does nothing but spin. I have tried to retard and advance to timing, nothing seems to help. Please Help...
This link is to something that you should read, pay cloes attention to number 4 under guidlines. Or you could go to the top of the page and click on new to the HAMB introduce yourself here, this link is right at the top of the page where it says read this first. Just trying to save you some grief. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44274 now as for your stude there are two things to think about before you get deep into it. First is your choke working? After you check that open your distributer and take a look at your points, are they clean or burnt, are they gapped correctly? Gte that sorted out first then come back and let us know what you discovered.
Thanks Porknbeaner, the choke is working. The points, wires, distributer cap and rotor, plugs are all new. The points arent burned, but I'm not sure about the gapping. And it runs pretty good after you get it started.
I used to gap them with a match book. I am going to guess that they want to be gapped @ about .018. One of the Stude guys will know for sure but that should get you there. Try running a compression check on it. Your compression could be down or maybe you have a tight valve. I have had old engines not start well and come out of it after that loosened up a bit. You may also have a weak coil it doesn't take as much fire to light either as it does gasoline. I have a small block in my willys that hadn't run since about 1982. It has started good ever since I first fired it but I put a pretty hot ignition in it. It has stubled a bit since i first lit it off last winter, but now that I have run it a bit it is starting to loosen up, I ran it last night and it didn't stumble at all. I won't do a proper tune up until I can get it out and drive it so I am sure that it is loosened up and nothing is sticking.
Is the accelerator pump in the carb working? It should squirt gas down the carb when you give it a pump or two just before you crank it to start it. You do pump the gas pedal a couple of times before you start it don't you? Pumping it before start up also sets the choke if the engine is cold.
Is there gas in the float chamber of the carb??? Does your accelorator pump work, can you see a healthy squirt of fuel when you work the carb linkage from closed to WOT? You use the term spin over, to me that indicates that the starter responds to the solenoid, engages the flywheel and turns the engine over, thus spinning over. As in spins but won't fire. Fires means the starter spins over and one or more cylinders may light off, but not in a way which supports continued operation. As in fires but doesn't run. Starting indicates that the engine fires, and continues to operate on its own at idle after you release the key or the starter button. As in starts but won't idle Runs means it starts, idles, responds to throttle inputs and powers the vehicle in a way appropriate for driving on public roads. As in Runs and drives. Once you have established you have proper spark, then check the fuel. And remember 90% of all carb problems are electrical, and 90 percent of electrical problems are related to the fuel system. Once you get those the way they should be, It should spin (crank), fire, start and run as designed. And remember your 4 stroke cycle, Suck, Squeeze, Bang and Blow! all 4 components must be up to snuff.
Thanks guys, yea the motor turns over, but does not crank until I shoot some ether. To much ether and it won't hardly turn over. I didn't see any gas shooting down in the engine.
Just thought of it and had to look for the thread, do you have a 12 volt wire that runs to the coil in start mode only? I am thinking that in start mode it should be getting all 12 volts to the coil to start, unless it is a 6V. I never asked if it was 6V or not.
It's a 12v system with a late model 12v alt. I'm guessing that the coil is 12v all the time. Can you post a link of the other thread?
No I had to look for this thread. What you should have is a resistor between your switch and your coil. That knocks your voltage down to about 9V, then there should be a second wire running from your starter solenoid that is energized when the starter is engauged, it will supply a straight 12v to the positive pole of the coil. it gives you a little extra zot to start the engine. the rest of the time you need the lower voltage coing to the coil to keep from burning your points up they will not tolerate 12v for long periods of time. Well this came to me while I was trying to get my heater out of the Willys so I need to get back out there. Talk again soon and welcome to the HAMB. Please stay around and do lots of reading so you can get a feel for the place. Look at the top of the page for a little flashing flag. There is a drop down you should have some new information thee. BTW The Ol' Man worked for thre Studebaker garage in Portland when I was born, I have a soft spot for them.
If you don't see any gas then there is likely no gas in the float bowl. No gas nothing to squeeze there for no bang. Also over using starter spray will wash all the oil off the cylinder walls, making the starter labor while spinning to crank the engine. Check and fix your fule flow and pressure and float level. ad check for a blocked needle and seat. Pull the fuel line at the carb and direct it into a container, crank the starter and assure fuel is flowing. You should get about 10 ounces witha bout 12 cycles of the fuel pump, you should be able to see the pulse as the starter cranks the engine over. If you have proper flow there, then assure its getting into the carb. What carb are you working with??? most of them have only 5 or 6 screws that retain the air horn and top of the float bowl. Pull them, take off the top and see if there is sufficient gas in the carb. And stop using ether spray.
The carb is, I'm guessing, the original. It's an old carter 4 barrel. I don't think the accelerator pump is working, but I'm not sure where it's located. And the car seems to run fine after you get it running. I tried it when I got home. I left it on the charger all night, so the battery was good and strong. It spun pretty fast and I was able to get it running without ether. I'll try it again tomorrow.
Wcfb is the correct carb and pretty easy to rebuild. Go to the carburetor Doctors websit and see if the service manual sheet is visible on the site. It will help you locate the pump and the likage. The leather bellows on the pump piston is probably dried up. And or the check ball are stuck. http://www.carbkitsource.com/manuals/carbmanuals/CM483.html
The carb you have if old is hard to rebuild "sometimes" It depends what's worn. Most get a Edelbrock carb a "500" not a 600 or a 650. Your Stude 289 does not require alot of gas to run well. also take a look at the plugs They should be long tip type. Hope this helps Stude motors are great motors
Thanks guys, I adusted everything again and messed with everything. Not sure exactly what did it, but it seems to be cranking pretty good now. I appreciate all the help.
Looks pretty 80's to me. Never a real fan of that decade. Legwarmers, smurfs, mall hair, Swatches, Video arcades,Chuck E Cheese, Mutant Turtles, and Pee wee Hermain. That movie may have been the only good thing from the era. Especially Sigourney Weavers Scene.
Yea, I'm showing my age, haha. I was born in '86. Ghost Busters was my favorite show. And I love that Caddy. I was a big time TMNT's fan also.
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