Oct 2011 Banger Meet. Not all that scary...Really.

Here is the banger link list .


For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498



Banger basics. another info link list:

http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.billsbangers.com

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=6

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484


Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://www.centuryperformance.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:

http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Elrod's stuck head tech:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:

http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp


Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"

http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05


Chevy Banger Stuff

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/The-High-Speed-Internal-Combustion-Engine-Ricardo-1931

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.

If anyone knows of more, please post them.

 

Added a link to last months B rod bearing discussion to above list


.

 

thanks for starting oct ................. steve

 

Just a hint of an article coming out soon:

 

It's Oct now??

 

It is here in So Cal.

.

 

Has to be, Hershey is next week. Are you coming?

 

Here are some pics of a MARC/AACA meet and hill climb today in beautiful Greeneville, East Tennessee, the home of Andrew Johnson. Mostly speedsters with Lion heads, but one with a gennie Riley. One of the "gow jobs" had what appeared to be a home made aluminum OHV head with home made rocker cover. Notice the DUAL rear tires on the black speedster. Plenty of power; he could lay down 4 stripes instead of two. "Churn 'em and burn 'em

Some nice restored A's also, and LOTS of nice folks. We need more of this over here.

 

Took my banger to the Friday night block party - amazing the attention a banger with a straight header gets. Lots of lookers - probably more than the much nicer, finished cars all around me.

 

It's October 2 here in NZ 1.59 pm.

 

Here is a link to the build thread of that head:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=499123


This is what he started with:

 

So I am sitting here looking at George Millers billet head project pictures, my Wife walks up and looks over my shoulder and states "must be a relative" and leaves.

hhmmm, maybe she is starting to recognise the parts in the shop, time to put some away.

J

 

Yeah, that's it. Thanks for posting that. I didn't get a chance to talk to him, as he was torn down in the parking lot with a broken lifter, I think. He got it back together and made a pass or two. Ran and sounded really good.

 

Went for a nice ride today with a buddy.

 

Help,
My model A engine runs at about 650 rpms at start up but after it warms up it runs at 1000 rpms, What makes it do this? It's stock insides but has dual 97, dual exhaust and model B distributor.
Mike

 

Sounds like a air leak at the intake or carb to me.

 

Bcchopit,
Thank you I'll check it out.
Mike

 

YUP It's a leak!

Spray some WD40 around the base

 

Bluto,
What will sparing wd40 do?
Mike

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
spray the WD-40 at the base of the intake and at the base of the carb.
WD-40 will burn so the engine will race then you find where it is sucking in the air
Don't do it when the engine is real hot you might get a flash fire off the EX. buy it will burn off quick

 

Hello,

I'm in the beginning stages of building a lakester out of a P-38 wing tank. It will have a counterbalanced "B" engine with basic upgrades (WICO mag, single 97, "B" head, and a lightened flywheel) to start out. This will be set up with the engine behind the driver. I see that most people do away with the radiator and just run a water tank in its place. Does anybody have any idea of what tank size I should be looking at for water capacity? I will be building the tank, so it can be as big or as small as I would like it to be (within reason).

Any help is appreciated,
Mitch

 

Mitch,

I guess the question back to you would be how long do you intend to run the motor?

Some guys at ElMirage don't run any water.

In my car, under construction, the water tank will be as big as the room left for it.
By comparison, I will have a small fuel tank ~2 gallons and 2 gallon oil tank.

John

 

Also remember that a dry sump system pumps as much air as oil. The froth is not as effective as pure oil. You want to get the air out of the froth. It idea tank is twice as big as the oil volume you planning to run. And well vented into a puke can. Which is also well vented. In this way you have a better chance of extracting air from the oil.

 

I intend to run the engine long enough to tune it and be able to make a pass. I guess I am just overthinking this. Thanks for the good info gents.

-Mitch

 

Check with the rule book or official or Ben Mosher to see if a lightened flywheel is allowed, you may have to bite the bullet & get an aluminum one. Pat

 

If you check back to post 92 of the August Banger 2011 thread; you will see that I had a problem with the "B" four banger in my new roadster.
I asked for help to solve my problem of the new Zeniths flooding and our Pal Bluto came to the rescue with many things to try in post 93. After checking off the to do list this is where we were at....
While I was trying to get it fired on Monday after getting the Zeniths back together, I thought I had better check the new Mallory distributor. I filed the points and It started right up. It ran for a bit then it just stopped and it wouldn't restart until I filed the points again. I took a close look at the points and found the litte felt pad that the lubricates the contact arm was getting screwed up and changing the gap on the points. I thought that with all that I would be driving the car, I removed it and reset the gap. I had the little roadster running on Tuesday, better than it has ever run before. I wanted to take it out on the road Wedneday morning when there wasn't much traffic so I did bounce up and down on the front of the frame while it was running just to check if it would flood and it seemed fine. Car starts nice and runs great so on Wednesday we did several laps of the neighbourhood and guess what.....no flooding. Now Bluto, I was wondering if in fact my primary problem was the points all along and because the engine started back firing and not burning the gas the way it should, the gas was flooding out the throats. It did have an electric pump on it at the time but now it has the rebuilt mechanical B pump. All because the little piece of felt was screwing up the gap. It will be interesting to hear what you think.
Thanks for all of your help Bluto,
Ron

 

Can anyone tell me if the mallory distributer uses a stock A shaft inside? or is it a mallory only piece. The engine I bought had a mallory on it and the tang was broke off on the distributer to the oil pump drive shaft.

Thanks
Mike

 

Ok, now that the flooding dual Zeniths seems to be resolved and I'm able to drive the roadster, I was just wondering, with all of the four bangers on this thread, can you tell me what kind of air pressure you are running in your bias ply Firestones ? Mine are 6:50x16 on the rear and 5:00-5:25x16 up front. I've removed some of the leaves from the spring packs (quarter eliptical) and it isn't as smooth as I thought it should be but then, maybe I'm expecting too much.
Ron

 

I'm running @ 15# in front and 18# in back. 500-16 front, 890-16 rear.

 

Thanks Crazy! Did you ever try any lower ? The sidewalls sure seem stiff on mine, at least for a very light car.
Ron