hydraulic throwout bearing or slave

I ran a '60 Chevy Pick Up slave cylinder on my '55 Chevy with a 348. Made a plate the slave cyl mounted to that bolted to a threaded hole in the block that the pivot bar went to. Worked well for 12 years. only issue was the bleeder screw was upside down.Unbolted the slave cyl to bleed it. No big deal.

 

Pics aren't the best, if someone wants more pics I can get them. Dennis

 

Not to get to far off the topic of the thread, but I like the cable idea. What vehicle did you source that cable from?

Bob

 

Thanks - anyone have a pic of a Ford 5.0L cable install? It has to pull forward.

 

Lots of good ideas and solutions here.

5 or so years ago, there was a lot of this going on too and the posts are here in the T-5 threads about more solutions and brackets.

On my T I used a Nova bell that needs a 153 tooth, small flywheel, and has the fork at about 7 o'clock left side. With a Speedway hydraulic pull cylinder mounted along side the transmission. Pedals thru the floor. Works fine and is trouble free.


If I was to do another, I think I'd do a right side fork with a truck bell. and hydraulic cylinder.

 

Yeah, S-10's and I think the lowly Ford Rangers used an hydraulic TOB.

 

I use the hydraulic slave cylinder. It's easier to service then having to pull tranny if the hyd. throwout bearing leaks. Many of my friends had leaking hyd. bearings in the past.

 

Okay, I a dope - misspoke. My clutch arm must move FORWARD (stoke 5.0 bell housing and right side ball position). But you pics make me think I can use the stock cable hole and run the cable to the lower lever on my clutch pedal to pull it from the front.

I'll search now.

 

Very difficult to service when it goes South on you.
Please, go with the slave and a rugged fork.

 

man, the way all you guys are talking, it sounds like a matter of when, rather than if these things start leaking. it has me thinking of sticking in an automatic instead.

 

That will definitely eliminate any clutch actuation problems, but you won't have as much fun.

Bob

 

I've used the bearing type on circle track cars for years with no problems..like someone else already said just make sure its set up right..3 shims usually is a good starting point with a Muncie.
one other thing..if you pull the trans back out be careful not to pull the thing apart,throw it away and get another one if you do..never had any luck trying to replace the "O" rings.

 

Thanks for the pic. In studying your set-up I am confused on how your push cylinder can operate the clutch from where it is mounted. Can you explain where the pivot is for the clutch arm? Wouldn't a push cylinder have to be mounted on the engine side to function properly?

 

The pivot is on the opposite side. Like I said it was a cable pull from the opposite end originally. 80-93+ mustang.

 

You wouldn't happen to have a pic of the arm from the front of the tranny would you??

 

Hope you can see it now.