HEMI Tech - Hemi Engine Mounts

My buddy Luke at Austin Speed Shop made this one for me for my 241 dodge. This was when he was here in So. Cal.

 

I got a set of those old Hurst red mounts in the misc box with my 331 Hemi. I'm gonna see if they will work, though seeing all those cool mounts on those hot rod frames, gets me thinking I can do something similar on my Fatman's frame stub. It's really no different than rails, I need to measure the width though. I thought I took a pic of them when shooting the Hemi, but can't find it. I try to get some later.

 

Something to think about - no matter whose mounts you're using . . . or making your own. I'm not trying to pick on anybody here -- I noticed this when I was making mine and "caught myself" about ready to make a mistake. At least think this through when you're making yours or using somebody elses . . .

1) I would not make a single bolt that goes through the TWO cast iron tabs -- especially if you like to tighten things a bunch!

Take a look at the pictures in post #13 below - imagine the stress on the two cast-iron tabs when you put some torque on the through bolt. If there is any room at all, side-to-side between your mount and the tabs, then it is quite easy to break a cast iron tab OFF the block. This is one reason you see certain early Hemi blocks for sale with broken engine mounting tabs. On this specific mount - which I think is really nicely done, there may be no gap (side to side), so it may work just fine . . . but be aware!

Try to bolt from each side of your mount through the tab - short bolt on each side and hopefully you've fabbed your mount to tightly fit up against the block tabs on both sides.

If your mount is using thinner material - like 3/16, it will probably deflect a bit and stretch to tightly fit against the tab. If you're using thick material - like 3/8, it may not deflect and you may want to shim up any space on either side.

If you need to shim it to take up the plan, so be it . . . just don't over tighten a single through bolt.

 

I believe the second picture in Post #3 is the way it needs to be done...if you're using a single bolt. You are correct about using 2 bolts in Post # 13. However, even 2 bolts, through a mount that thick could cause the cast iron to break if the bolts were really reefed down tight. The way the mount was made in Post #3 is what I'm using on mine. I ground the mount until it exactly fit the cast iron tabs ...and still didn't crank down hard on the nut. I used loc-tite and a Ny-lock nut...

 

B&S is definitely on target ^^^ It is easier than one might think to break off an ear. It is disheartening when one of those blocks comes into the shop and no decent way to make repairs.
Remember, there is a reason that MotherMopar used 3 short bolts.


.

 

so if what i'm reading here, i should redesign these on my 325???i had thought about adding suport to the tab up towards the tubing...

 

TOPOLINO - The reason these tabs break is because there is too much strain put on the top two tabs, with too much clearence between the inside of the tabs and the mount between them. They don't break from the engine torquing...that's taken care of by the two front tabs. The upper rear tab, in conjunction with the other two tabs, is more of a stabilizer. The one in your picture looks fine...just don't crank down on the long bolt. Snug it up, and use loc-tite and a ny-lock nut. I wouldn't even try to use any sort of a lock washer, because I'd be afraid of putting too much pressure on the nut to effectively use it...

 

Any photos of some orginal Hurst mounts in an '30's Ford?

 

My '56 Dodge 315 mounts use the three short bolts as originally used. That's how I planned to use the Hurst mounts I have for the 331.

 

The mounts in my '56 Dodge use three small bolts (on each side) and lock washers on each. Is it okay to use lock washers if one is using three bolts instead of any single long ones?

 

It all depends on the thickness of the metal of the mount. If the mount doesn't have enough "give" when it's tightend to the cast ear, then there is a chance of the ear breaking. If the mount is custom fit to literally slide into the ears, then it should be okay. The whole point, no matter how it's done, is not to put any sideways strain on the ears when bolting to the mounts...

 

Excellent work again, Scooter. I have saved this page for future reference - when I get the motor all together and start worrying about dropping it in the engine bay!

 

Not on a Hemi, but a Spitfire Poly. Same block though:

 

Where do I find the rubber pads that are on the black & white saddle mount picture above?

I found this set at Jegs:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans+Dapt/969/9314/10002/-1

But their site doesn't have any dimensions listed for it. All through this thread, I see guys using different rubber pads. Would like to try to find a place where I can pick the thickness I want.

 

Where do I find the rubber pads that are on the black & white saddle mount picture above?

I found this set at Jegs:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans+Dapt/969/9314/10002/-1

But their site doesn't have any dimensions listed for it. All through this thread, I see guys using different rubber pads. Would like to try to find a place where I can pick the thickness I want.

 

I have used cushions from a late 70's Dodge truck (w-150) that were on the transfer case mount. Similar to Jeff's biscuits. Flathead Ford v-8 also uses similar cushion.

Another option is the standard isolator from the Dodge truck. About 1½" x 3" and maybe 1" thick. These have a mounting stud on each face instead of the through bolt design.

I'll see if I can find a pic.

.

 

Got some like those @ AutoZone, they were for a Ford. Anchor 2123

 

73RR, They also use the same isolator for 'A' body engines up to 72 (I think that is the cutoff year). They were for the slant 6 and SB engines.

 

Thanks for the info. I ordered the set from Speedway.

 

Our Custom Set for '32 Ford Roadster

 

Great looking engines, and mounts.
Eddie

 

I put a set of those cheap Speedway rubber buiscits under my mounts. They lasted only part of a season. I ordered a set from Chassis engineering http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/ and they've been in there for thousands of miles. I don't believe they're in their catalog but, if you call, they'll ship you a set. They work becase they have the steel mand to support the rubber.

 

A friend of mine has been re-manufacturig the old Hurst motor mounts for years and selling them on e-bay. He has 'em for Buics, Cads, Olds, Chrysler.

 

I just modified the stock 54 Dodge mount on this 241. Replaced the stock rubber pad in the center with a solid one and added tabs for biscuits. Not very trick looking but it's a budget build.

 

Here's an easy one. To put this 331 Chrysler in my '36 Dodge pickup, I drilled the rivets out of the stock '36 engine mounts, and switched them left side for right side. Bolted down with four 3/8" grade 8 bolts. With Hot Heads mounts on the engine, with their rubber donuts, the hemi fit right onto the reversed '36 mounts and cleared the firewall and radiator perfect.

 

Just when I was looking for ideas on mounts, this page appears. Perfect.

 

These are semi finished at thsi point