Well all it needs is a momentary input to trigger it on/off, as long as it has an ignition power source. I guess you could use it as a type of anti theft, but like any emergency/parking brake, you can overcome it with some engine power.
I just finished up welding the brace in, as well as the struts that go up to the door jam. The body is soon to come off now....
Super sano work Cory...that hair blower is coming along just peachy...keep the updates rollin in will ya !! Rat
Just curious. Is there a reason for running that combination? Is it a smaller casing but with good internals or something? Loving the build, by the way.
Ease of availability of the case (has the correct tail housing too), and the better gear selection of a world class set.
2010 and newer Buick LaCrosse, 2008 and newer Cadillac CTS, 2011 and newer Buick Regal (all that I can think of off the top of my head). The unit is around 10" x 5" x 4".
I picked up a blast cabinet this week, and finally got the thing assembled and set up. It's big enough to fit wheels and my grill insert (for an experiment I'm going to try). I cleaned up the fuel pump stand and oil fill breather tonight. My fiance's dad has been working on the transmission tunnel for me since it's well beyond what I can tackle. I set it in the car tonight check fit so far and to layout where the shifter will be passing through. Here are a couple shots of it:
Is the brace made from flat stock ? What are the dimensions of the stock ? Can't tell from photo. Fantastic build, very nice work. Inspiration for mine. Ric
I decided to get a seat frame mocked up in the car in case I need to add any structure to the floor for mounts. I started with a pattern from a buddy John Swander that's based for a roadster / 5 window. I narrowed it slightly and shortened the back slightly also. The bottom frame is 1/2" x 1 1/2" tube, the back is 3/4" birch, and the sides are 1/2" birch. Here's some of it assembled: A couple from in the car. I just need to get some foam so I can get an idea of the final shape. I'll be cutting some pockets in the back and bottom to add some webbing. Also, the short block showed up this week too. Mike Herman did the work - 284 stroker motor:
I worked some more on the seat this week. Started off cutting a wood insert for the back and bottom. The back mounts with two angled pins at the top, and is fastened by two bolts at the bottom. The bottom will be wedged in at the rear under the back cushion, and the front has two pins that go into the seat frame. Here's a shot of the foam profiles that I'm starting with. I'm waiting for the foam pieces to arrive from the supply house now so I can try it out. If it turns out good, I'll get the framework mounted to the floor. Mocked up a Limeworks decklid handle I also spent the last weekend tightening up the hood gaps. The hood had some fore/aft play still in the hood hinge strip, so I tig'd a little material to the ends to take care of it. I was left with a few areas that were too tight or touching the cowl, so I ground these gaps open. I cut through the hem in a few areas, so I tig'd them up and filed it.
"Mocked up a Limeworks decklid handle" Those are cool. Believe that they're Austin Healey 3000's. Makes sense, being from Limeworks. You make it look easy! Wish I had a 32 instead of my 31.
I'm at a bit of a stand still on the car right now as I wait for the top irons and wood to show up. It's the last thing left before the body gets pulled for the last time. I finally took on the challenge and finished up the license plate frame. You may remember from a previous post of this 1946 Ford accessory plate frame: It's basically a universial frame that was missing one of the trim caps. I thought it would look cleaner to weld the upper halves and lower halves together, then I covered the slip joints on the side with modified caps using the one remaining trim piece. I think I'm going to weld up the lower mount holes in the plate to keep it clean looking. In this photo, it's welded and filed, but still needs to be polished: The foam for the seat did show up the other day, so I managed to get the seat mounted to the floor. The foam is just roughed in and still needs to be radius'd across the back to follow the deck, and the front corners need to be radius'd as well. The seat sits great, very comfortable, and keeps a lot of leg room - here are some photos: John Jackson from NotStock Photography was at the house this past weekend for some other reasons, but he took some photos of the car (amazing work)....here's a few of them:
Wow.... Holy Shit Man. This is an awesome build! I have just stashed away so many little ideas from this for my '32! I am on that car 100% as soon as my Dragster is done... I ordered my body with the floor section removed just like yours such that I can make clearance around the rear cross member area. I totally dig how you pulled that off. I was going to do it like the Floyd Williams roadster but you've now changed my mind. Thanks for such a great thread! ~Robert M.
What is that rear hood latch from? Mine won't rotate that much, I have to attach them to my frame with a small perch/stand-off. I'd love to clean mine up like you did. Do tell!
VoodooTwin - The hood latches are original '32s. I added about 1/2" section of wire to the rod, and then bent the end so that I could mount the base to the side of the rail. There's a closeup of it on post #88.
I love your roadster build...if it were mine, I'd raise it up in the back 2"...just my personal opinion.
See, now that's clever! Thanks for the tip. I might have to borrow that idea. Hope ya don't mind. And by the way, I have to change my undies every time I look at those last pics in post #170. Good Lawd, that is one mighty fine looking rod!
Is that solid foam or is there some sort of framework inside it? is it stiff enought? seems like it might breakdown sag a bunch. Sure would make it much simpler to make the seats if its just foam.
It's just a high quality, high density foam. The bottom is HR-43 if you want to stop by an upholstery supply house and see it.
The Jalopy Journal
