Tech: Shortening an I beam axle

Your not being a pest that's wht I wrote this tech. I cut the pitman arm off because it was going to be in the way. I wanted to use side steering anyway.
Eddie

 

Thank you sir. This is a great tech

 

what about the guy in salt lake city that drops axles? heard nothing but good things and his prices seem reasonable plus quick turnaround. he's here on the hamb and one of the throttler's i think?

 

Those econoline spindles are great for conversions. I used some on a 37 ford tube axle. My next use will be a complete narrowed econoline under my 50 shoebox. Gasser style but lower.

Thanks for the method to narrow! Being a welder the long overlap does put alot less stress one the welds. Great design.

 

when you use those spindles where do you get new steering arms or tie rod arms or did you use the stock stuff

 

mmordrop is in san leandro

 

Thank you for all the replies and compliments! As for the tie rod ends and steering arms. I made them from DOM tubing.
Eddie

 

Ive done it to
It works.....

 

I used to live in a warehouse one block over from MorDrop, I am assuming they are still in the same building? Does anyone know if they ever moved since the '80's???

 

so what wire did you use to tig it?

 

Just looked up the address for Mordrop (use "yellowpages.com"). It is:

Mordrop Axles
600 29th Ave.
Oakland, CA 94601
510-261-1888

If you use the yellowpages site it will also give you a map of their location. Hope this helps those that are looking for specifics.

 

Just a thought here. If you wanted more drop in the front end you could use the old AMC bolt on spindles. Been quite a few rears since they used 'em and I don't know how available parts may be. But you sure could drop it some more. They used to use 'em on early Ford beam axles by cutting the spindle stub off the axle, making a plate to attach to Ford flange, then bolt AMC spindle higher on the plate. Had a friend that used them on a 40 Ford without problems.

 

this is an old post...but i have an f1 axle that i need to shorten as well, but not to this degree.
i need to narrow it in about 1 inch in the center...so that the perches are 28"inchs apart instead of 29"inches apart.

now i heard that you could either cut the axle and weld it together(like in this post)
or ive heard that its possible to belly out the axle to where it has a slight v shape in the middle. (never seen it done, is it a common method?)
since its only 1 inch that i need to bring it in....
which method would you go with?

 

Econoline van axle narrowed 7". Cut and spliced using the same joint prep as the original poster. Pre-heat, welded, with 7018 , and controlled cool down.

Bob

 

The F1 and F100 axles were used in super modifieds and they all were narrowed as described. If you do not cut the spring pads off until you are done, a piece of angle iron drilled with the spring pad bolt pattern can be your jig or fixture.
Duane

 

I remember reading a year or two ago that MorDrop is no longer in business.
The business card and flyer I have from 2002 gives the phone # as 510-261-1888.
Martin Costello, owner. 600 29th Ave. Oakland, CA 94601

 

Interesting!

 

Forget Mor Drop. The business has been for sale for 3 years, heard he's been ill.

Ansen (on the HAMB) is excellent, and is in Auburn, just East of Sacramento.

Sid's "Nostalgic Axles" is superb, in Oklahoma. Just google "Droppedaxles".

 

Are you using parallel leafs or transverse? Why not move the shackles out 1/2 an inch each?

 

Now that's a great idea! It would have to be a pretty substantial piece, maybe an RSJ or something.

 

They are cast steel, not cast iron. I have cut modified and built axles from scratch. You should be fine

 

http://2loose.chevytalk.org/55straightaxle2.html

Here is some pics of a similar method to narrow an axle.

 

You sir are a genious! I been lookin for a good cheap I beam axle and have welded some in the past. Never thought about the twin I beams! Dont worry im a good welder.

 

Just remember because one axle is in front of the other, steering arms/ toe on turns may become an issue

 

I have been looking at twin I beams for this purpose, too. The only problem I have seen is, they have a bend in them right where the hole for mounting the radius link goes. One bends back, the other forward, so from the bend outward, they are straight across. Easy enough to heat and straighten this kink, just advising anyone who tries it that the problem exists .The main reason I haven't done it is that I am not overly impressed with Ford's disc brakes!

 

I narrowed a '46 Ford front axle years ago by cutting a section out of the middle in a "tang & slot" manner.... made a jig, used a DC machine & 7018. Turned out beautiful...
Worked great... was for a '52 Mg with a small block Chevy.... Krazy

 

I remember reading this years ago.
At the time thought it was a little sketchy,
but with the amount of welding projects I've done over the past 5 years
in heavy duty marine based stuff,
and seen it years later still holding no problem,
i've realized steel is steel.
And an I-beam is really less then 1/4" thick.
I'd definitely arc weld it though,
something about a 7018 bead seems so strong in comparison to a mig.
Thanks for bringing this back up!

TP

 

Yes, in truth a DC machine & 7018, while more "skill sensitive" is much, much better for the strength of the finished part. In the right hands X-ray quality welds with 7018 are the "norm" Have Fun Hot Roddin

 

Mordrop is closed but the number is still good. Don't think he does much work anymore. Saw large amount of his inventory for sale at a swap meet in sac this summer.


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