175 psi, i need to hide the air tank of my bag set up under the rear seat, here its illegal to have adjustable suspension and risked to have the car inpounded once already. I need a small tank, and because im making a step notch i thought of incorporating a small diameter tank into the design as the smaller 2 or 3 gallon tanks available are too bulky and would be kinda of an hassle to fit. As for open root welding i did a search and no i never did, althought i usually bevel both joints to get better penetration, but usually if i leave a gap and make a root pass its not in the same way as in pipe weldin. I could even use my old stick welder if you think its better, i used to be quite good at it, plus i have a 100pk of electrodes that is just sittin there so i might as well put it to good practice use. I'll do some test panels, or tubing sections then picture them and post'em.
i got a new machine at work. dynasty 300 dx after setting up the machine most of the white cloud is gone now. less than 1/8icnh all around it. tried adjusting the machine to the best of my knowledge and that is as good as i can get it. running 50/50 gas
^ Holy fuck there is some serious talent on this forum... Im honestly speechless with some of you guys. (Are you sure you weren't a surgeon in a past life? thats the most consistent heat & beading I've seen in a long time) I was about to post some amazing pics of my neighbors twin turbo Mustang build that he did, but nothing would stand out from the norm here. My hats off to you HAMB guys, seriously.
Someone asked the other day to see some thin stuff, this was the thinnest I could dig up at the time. .055. I need to get in for some glasses, I have a hard time seeing the puddle at this size...
My kid always said my mig welds look like Helen Keller did them. I don't know if that's a complement or not ?
like a stack of nickels that fell to the side..........................BEAUTIFUL..They look like aircraft automated machine welds.
jdustu that really is an incredible weld , id need a magnifying lense to see the puddle , great weld ,
Usinng 50-50 Helium Argon is great when you are welding thicker materials. Helium increases the heat input. When welding thin aluminum use 100% argon or 90 - 10 Argon Helium (I prefer 100% argon) The white stuff is a byproduct of the cleaning action of using AC. You will always have it and it is not a bad thing. It is do to the oxide that is present in all aluminum even after thorough cleaning. The oxide layer on aluminum forms in milliseconds, so even after a good cleaning it comes back immediately in a thin layer, think .0001 micrometers but it is still there, it will get thicker the longer it sits. 6061 will for oxide very fast. MIL-STD 248 requires that welding be performed within 8 hours of cleaning, sometimes 4 depending on the alloy. At our shop we weld within 6 or 7 minutes of cleaning. Best semi mechanical cleaning process is a red scotchbrite on a grinder followed by a wipe with denatured alcohol. You can also chemically clean sodium hydroxide, followed by and acid wash followed by a baking soda rinse followed by a clean water rinse but it is messy and a pain. Here is one of our butt welds on 5083 H111
I can offer one tip to welders that like me are getting older. Glasses. I have a prescription for reading glasses at +1.0. I bought some glasses at the supermarket at +2.5 or something like that, basically much stronger than my normal prescription. I attached them to my gas welding goggles (on the outside - works ok) and it really helped me re-learning my gas welding. It allows me to really concentrate on the weld puddle and react to what is going on. New goggles can make a big difference, too. If you can't see clearly you will not get a good result. Mart.
I just finished a welding course at my local trade school and feel a lot better about my welding abilities than I did before... a lot of the stuff on this site is pure art but it doesn't seem as far out of reach as it did just a few months ago. One thing I know is that I need a tig welder. The stick is great for brute force and you can still get some pretty welds. The mig is downright handy and easy to use. But the tig... that is just clean, precise, and unforgiving as hell. This thread is inspiring to say the least... Guess I need to squirrel away my acorns to pay for the Welding II class next fall as I obviously still have a lot to learn.
Yeah, keeping a clean shield helps. I've got pretty bad double vision, and I'm nearsighted...which means I can't see shit close up or far away Definitely need to get in for some glasses again. Guys are trying to convince me to get laser surgery, but even though I've heard nothing but good things the idea scares the crap out of me.
that is exactly what im doing now. lol. wish i could post more pictures guys. camera is sick. anyways...there is alot of sick looking welds. i wish my camera was ok i would post some of mirrored s.s. the welds look freakin awesome agaisnt the mirrored finish.
Cheater lenses inside the welding helmet are a lot more convenient than reading glasses. Problem is, if you have one of those fancy helmets with the big window, the magnifiers only cover about half. But I have to say, my welds are 10x better now that I can actually see what I'm doing. Laser surgery doesn't help for the close up stuff, unless you do one eye for near and one for distance. But that screws up your depth perception. I got lasik about 5 or 6 years ago, and now I'm just about ready for reading glasses. I definitely need something for my welding as low light is when you really notice it.
Has anyone seen Wally Wlaysewsky's work? Is different but the guy is the sh!t.http://strikeanarc.com/
that looks good we have a lincoln mig welder with all accesories to weld alluminum but never tried always tig instead.might give it a try now
So, guys, what is the best lighting for welding? I have trouble seeing what I am doing for the most part. Results in crappy welding. Outside seems better but I can't drag everything outside.
I use a portable shop lamp and put it as close as possible to what I'm working on. I also try to limit the amount of light coming into the back side of my hood as that really makes it difficutl to see what I'm doing.
Make sure ya lense's and covers are nice and clean Clive, mig welding is usually good for discolouring them. What amps are you running , and what shade is your helmet set to ? Shrappy
How do you find the strength of the mig welds? I know it looks good but to me i just think the weld would be weaker when you overlap spot welds with a mig welder allowing the weld to slightly cool between spots and not be as stronger as a straight run. Do i make sense? anyone else have an opinion.
^^ that is a seriously nice bead. its not a stitch job. btw, it wouldnt make sense on material as thick as that. Stitchin is for sheetmetal to avoid heat build up. whos done that btw? real nice. found out who did it, previous page 1320 something.
looks cool, but to me its not right or strong. I've seen this type of weld done on panel work,,ground down ready to bondy over,,,but light visable through the spots !!!! Shrapnel
^^^ this type of weldin is for frames or thick walled steel. You are referin to stitchin, badly done too apparently. anybody grindin a bead on a frame is a hack. unless its a showcar that doesnt get driven.
that is absolutely for looks only, not strength, see the little dimple in the middle of each puddle, he's pulsing his MIG instead of a good consistant bead, I am against this on any sort of structural weld.
I see this done in aluminum also, the beads look good but you can clearly see its a series of weld "dots" stacked on top of each other. Kindof bugs me because everybody thinks its an awesome weld.
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