June 2011 Banger Meet, Any Questions?

I posted this a few weeks ago.....but here goes for all the mechanical brake guys and 4 banger folks.

Guys,

I have been working on this barn find roadster for the last few months. I bought it in a barn in Kansas ( Great Bend area) back in January. The guy I bought it from said it ran, but I did not try to start it and took his word ( big mistake).

I got it home and put a battery on it and cranked it, but not go. I had fuel and spark so I was only missing the main ingredient COMPRESSION!! Finally it started but it ran very poorly and would barely move itself up the slight incline into my shop.

Well after a compression test of 25, 26, 7, 25 I decided a good used motor was in need. Luckly, a local guy here in Denver (Dave) had a good used 4 banger and I made the swap. Wow, what a difference in power between a engine with 70+ PSI of compression and 25 PSI.

So with a good running engine it was time to set out to build a neat pre-war street roadster ( fenders). I wanted to buildsomething that a young man with basically only early Ford parts were available to Hop up his roadster.

I know it is debatable that dropped axles were not readily available pre-war , but who is to say that Ed "Axle" Stewart did not experiment in '38 or '39 with his

-First I found a set of 16" Kellsey Hayes Wheel at Berts Model A
-6.00 upfront and 7.50 on the rear is nice formual for rake.
-Then Steve hooked me up with an original Deluxe roadster windshield
-Dropped headlight bar
-Bought a Model T rear spring to get a nice "3 drop in the rear
-Used a set of '40 mechanical shocks on the rear, that once I welded the ball ends off the frozen originals and with the dog bones attached they fit perfectly in the original mounting holes like Henery intended ( but obviously he didn't)

Next, I turned my attention to the front suspension. After researching ELROD's post on how he did a dropped axle with mechanical brakes I though I would give it a try and amazing it was very simple.
-"4 streched dropped Okie Joe model A axle so my axle width was close to stock.
-Reverse eyed Mr. Roadster front spring with rear spring bushing cut to "1 3/4 so I could original spring shackles ( not P&J shackles in the late '30s)
-'32 Spring perches with the same bushings as above.
-'32 Spindles that I had rebushed and new Model A king pins.
-I made a 1" spacer to raise the mechanical brake levers up to match the backing plates.
-Used a ball socket on the steering arm and a stock length steering arm fits perfectly with no mods needed.

Well here is the finished product with a few pictures of the build.

I can't wait for the rain to stop to go for a drive!!

Enjoy!

Tex
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very very nice now its where it should be

 

Tomorrow, I join the ranks of the banger elite...

I'm picking up a 30 Victoria.

I sold a 30 roadster (283+4speed) I had to buy a new house. I've now sold my old house and with some of that cash I decided I wanted to start with a close to stock Model A. I happened upon this Vicky and said what the hell..
It needs a bunch of stuff but, you don't see these everyday and I really wanted something with a back seat.

For some reason I've been reading the banger meets here for years. And although I've soaked up virtually no knowledge, I'm excited now to have one of my own to work on. I'll definitely need some help at some point so, Thank You in advance.

-Bob

 

On a stock rebuilt engine w/ a 5.5 head and single downdraft, would a header make any more power over the stock exhaust manifold?

 

It would be an improvement, but I don't think you would notice it. Except for the exhaust note.

 

I agree other than sound and looks without extensive bottom end mods you just can't rev these motors to an RPM where tube headers make much difference.

And even with a killer bottom end the three main motors are not stout!

It's OK that some here have said effectively 'I want speed at any cost" You just got to accept that you can shorten the engines life by a bunch

 

Hi Banger guys! I just wanted to post so that I could find the tread easily.

I just bought a Stromberg 97 for my car. Anybody want a Ford flathead AAl carb?

 

Okay, I'm being lazy and not searching. My bad. Now, am I looking at junk here or anything that is of value? Opinions please. Obviously an industrial engine as it is on a Westinghouse generator.

 

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Help with top irons?
I have a set of original top irons in poor condition for my 28 roadster, they have had a hard life. I am missing the eyelet end on both sides, which I will remake. One of the flat bar links seems to have been shortened as well on both sides. Could one of you guys measure the center to centre distance for me for both pieces. And the distance between the metal bows so I can make the timber bow spars also would be a help.
Posted on the Ford Barn with no luck yet.
Thanks
Brendan

 

Check out the Pennsylvania Hill Association.

Here is the link to the Giants Despair in Wilkes Barre PA, I "drive" the course all the time as it is on a public road. The roadster isn't ready yet but when it is I'm going to get involved to do a run. I am going to try to get out there this July to watch.

http://pahillclimb.net/about/the-courses/giants-despair/

 

Waukasha engines were good as industrial units-- note that the governed speed is 1200 rpm, but it is likely that it is less displacement that a Ford A or B, and twice the weight.

Not something that you would want for a car engine.

Herb

 

Fair enough, I was kinda thinking that and appreciate the input. Is the mag anything of value?

 

OK, I picked up the Vicky and I'm having fun so far. A couple of questions while I'm waiting for a few books to arrive.

What's normal idle rpm roughly?
How the hell do I down shift to 2nd without grinding?

 

Double clutching, slow down more than you probably think you should, from neutral, rev and you will find the sweet spot that it drops right in!

 

If you drive an A long enough, you can knock the trans into neutral, then bring the engine speed up so that it is turning (by ear) the speed that it would be going in second, at that road speed, and shove the stick into second----all without the clutch.

Good thing- if you miss a little learning, and grind a little, won't hurt the trans.

Bad thing- takes time, compared to a box with synchros.

Herb

 

My dad was able to shift his Willis Overland up and down the gears and not use the clutch at all. Just with his ear and correct rpms. When I was a kid I thought that was the goofiest car ever made. Now I wish I had one.

 

Here's a picture of the car, my daughter and me.
I found it over in Jersey. I think I got a pretty good deal. Little more than what I wanted to pay but, a little less than he wanted for it. Came with a bunch of parts that I can sell to offset some of the cost. It needs pretty much everything, including rust repair but, it's a good start.

 

Nice going walls ! Let the fun begin
Ron

 

Hi I have been reading the Banger Post for a few years . It has been alot of help . My project is a 31 Pickup with a light warmed up A motor . Wanted to ask you guys what clutch are you running with the T5 , Throw out bearing ? who has the adoptors to the A bell housing ?

Thanks for your help

Skip

 

This is covered on this site try doing a search...

 

I have been asking the same type of question for some time.

A HAMBer did supply me with pictures of a clutch plate used in one kit, you know who you are, and I again thank you for your help.

alas, I have a 26 spline input shaft, and it seems as though I have no "official" source for this clutch.

 

That car looks great! Is there a build thread on it? I've always liked the idea of a 26-27 T body on an A chassis, was the rear fender attachment a big problem? Bob

 

only in the rear
thats where i ran into issues anyway
tk

 

The rear fenders are a patchwork in progress - I slit a rough set of coupe rears down the centre, bolted the flange to the T body and shortened and narrowed the rear . Now I need to make the other side match...
No build I'm afraid - didn't want to start one in case it ended up languishing in the garage for ages! I'm planning a full hood, so the radiator needs shortening to match as well - my main concern keeping a mechanical fan as I'd like to keep it potentially eligible for VSCC events. Rear will come down 2" or so with a T spring, maybe a reverse eye up front, and a few handling tweaks I've picked up country-laning the ponderous Fordor. With the A chassis there's space to sink an early T petrol tank between the rails rather than use the cowl tank.
Hopefully I've a close ratio set of gears on the way, then I can start saving up to build a strong engine. I have a spare diamond B block in need of resurrecting.

 

monkey biker,
why not run the t radiator?
tk

 

The T bottom tank won't sit down in the A crossmember too well, the top outlet fouls the fan, and the bottom outlet comes out inline with the dynamo mount. Other than that, no reason...!
An early A radiator (and I only have 30/31's at the moment) with a horizontal top outlet, maybe off centre is what I'm hoping will work. I'm still playing with a handful of T water pumps with maybe a fan on an idler, but they all run over the oil filler/breather which isn't my preferred location if the pump spring a leak...

 

All the T-pumps I've seen are a flat piece on metal inside spinning round

The A-7 guys are allowed an electric water pump.

I've a Lancia fan that runs thru the rad core

 

Down shifting an A trans: the recomended 600W oil works wonders.

 

Lots of banger porn at the Antique Nats yesterday. Coverage here:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=596408

 

Here is a view from my dash cam.