they line up well with the frame rails, but you'll need to use a crossflow radiator most likely; no room for the factory core or radiator.
I don't know the correct link, but search Project no buck$ '49 here on the H.A.M.B. Brad did this swap on his truck and did a very nice tutorial as to how to do it in this thread. Everything seems to fit pretty well, and the geometry and width of this clip work well for that type of truck. Lets see if I can make this work... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=327069&highlight=project+no+buck+49
You can use the factory radiator in a 47-54 truck with a G body clip.My 50 has an 86 Cutless clip under it.All you have to do is notch out the hood latch panel a few inches and move the radiator support forward to the inside of the support.The stock radiator clears the steering box by a half inch or so ...
The G body wheel track is perfect for the 47-54 Chevy truck IMO .S10's stubs are too narrow and Nova/Camaro clips are too wide for these trucks ...
Scott Danforth makes a replacement crossmember kit for these trucks which used the g-body components- saves cutting the frame and makes mounting your radiator and sheetmetal much easier. He is on the HAMB. Just another option. Jim
We were recently looking at Scott's "K member" kit and I belive it is the finest solution on the market for a AD truck, period. I studied his and the MIIs on the market and hands down his is the clear winner. We were looking at adapting it to a '46 Studebaker PU but it just wouldn't work, much to my dismay! I have a AD with Sids axle but can tell you for a great driver, Scott's is the way to go! Good luck....
Actually making the support for the front end isnt that difficult either.After you cutoff and notch the unused bumper mounting area on the G body stub carefully trim the lower splash pan on the truck till it clears .Bolt all the front sheetmetal back to the truck (including the grill and hood) .Use jack stands under the splash pan to support it level in place .Adjust all the panels till its where you want it and make sure the hood shuts straight .On mine i used the exsisting 2 bolts that bolt the core support to the inner fenders to make the mounts.I used a piece of 2 x 2 angle on each side .Drill the holes in the angle weld another piece of angle to it on the bottom to make an "L" bracket .Drill some holes on in the lower part of the bracket then bolt them in place .Use a piece of thick rubber between the G body stub and the bracket as an isolater .I used a piece of a mudd flap from an 18 wheeler.Use the holes you drilled in the "L" bracket as a guide to mark the holes on the top of the frame and then drill them in top of the frame .On the drivers side i welded studs to the frame top because of the steering box .Bolt it all together and its done ...
MY Burb has the complete chassis from a 80 Malibu G body.Look at my photobucket link for the build.I have used G bodys on my last 3 AD projects.They drive great and you can rob alot of the other stuff,colum,brake booster,pedals.
A good friend of mine that clipped my 50 has clipped about 40 of these trucks in the last 16 years that i have known him and G- Body clips are all he uses on them .On the rearend he uses Camaro or Nova for better clearence .The best column to use in these trucks as far as a later model goes is one from a 70's - 80's Chevy full size van.These columns have the small housing on them so it fits in the factory AD mount no problem ,also they have no key switch on them like other GM coulms from 69 and up .This way you can retain the factory key location on the dash .Mine has a tilt column from a Van.These columns are getting tough to find though .My 50 has the G-body pedals ,brake booster ,and master cylinder on it and it all fits great ...