Projects IM SO F@#KN SICK TO MY STOMACH just ruined a flathead

If it makes you feel any better, I threw some rods out off the 354 hemi in my digger before I ever made a pass in her. Life
goes on.

 

Sooo Sorrie', Soo, Sorrieee'..........
Know tha' "feelin' ", Was carring Trans, for tha'
40 Merc, around to other side of car, forgot garage door was part-way down, to keep Sun off car........walked striaght....forhead...to edge of door , "Went TO MY KNEES!!!!!!
But NEVER!.....Let Trans hit tha flooor!!
Heard of, "see'in STARS, but up until THEN!

Smokin' in GREAT Smokey

 

I bet a good machinist could fix it.Get it on a mill face off the broke peice make a plate with dowel pins, drill and tap the block and bolt her together with som sealent.Weve fixed worse stuff at our Industrial machine shop.

 

I got to agree. Someone with skills welding cast iron can stitch that back together without fail.

 

yep thanks to all the yea "you can fix that" the block is being cleaned up and I have a guy that is going to weld it back up and he stands behind his work
Ill get some pics when its done

 

yep that makes me feel like shuting up and building my engine

 

DO NOT WELD THAT BLOCK!
I don't care what others say is possible, welding hardens the surrounding metal and it will fail, maybe not today or tomorrow, but it will fail. I can fix that with Lock N Stitch permanently. I am in Stillwater. I sent you a PM, please call me and I will help you fix it.

 

@Saints...If ya' need another 8BA block, I've got a couple if you need to start from scratch...
Just PM me...
However, that being said, I wish ya' luck, brother...Trust me, I completely understand...

 

If done properly, with the correct preheat and cool-down, no it shouldn't. Just because something is welded does not automatically mean that it becomes hardened. I realize you also have a good method that would fix this, but saying this about welding is a common misconception.

 

Well I can only give one piece of advice here. Take the little piece of block with the bolt still in it of the back of the waterpump and make sure you put it back in place no matter how you fix it. I bought a tube of something called liquaweld (1974) may not still be available and then got a bolt 1/4 inch longer than the original and bolted it back in place. I think that along with a plate would probably fix that, but either way I think the bolt in the inlet should be in place and tight.

 

I do realize there are welding methds that work, but 9 times out of 10, they are not done correctly. About the only real welding method that really works is flame spray, and it far too expensive for this type of repair.

 

i find it hard to believe you cannot find a frt drum.....

 

What luck that this thread came up, we are all now fully miss informed on 8Ba block repair.

Thank you all.

Doc.

 

More than one way to fix the block. Welding is one way, lock n stitch may be another.

I have welded blocks and it worked for me.

To say, " it will fail, maybe not today or tomorrow, but it will fail" is incorrect and can be added to the list of valueable internet knowledge filed in the trash.

Neal

 

This thread is getting juicy.

saints, let us know how it goes!

 

it can be repaired but if you don't want to it, do not throw it away put a motorplate on the front stick it in a fed and have some fun with it.......or send it to me and I will do it!,

 

that is terrible but worse could have happened.....like your foot being in the way

grommet

 

True confessions....I hate to admit to this. But I once welded the side back into a chevy block with nickel rod, and it ran for over two years in my 34 ford truck before blowing up for other reasons (being an idiot teenager)...not the repair.
It was around the motor mount, ripped out of a new truck after a collision with a train, and it was free since nobody else would have tried this. I did a ton of grinding to make sure there were no sharp edges to crack, and everything had a good bevel.
I pre heated the area slightly, then only welded a few seconds at a time. And then covered the area with devcon epoxy. It never leaked, and ran like a new motor. I dont think I would try it now, but a free motor was worth a shot.

 

fuuuuuh......

 

When I was younger, I had a cast iron bellhousing break at the starter ear. I had a buddy weld it up. It didn't break before I pulled the motor and trans for a V8 swap. As I said, you can weld it, but it will likely break out again.

Pinning it a new piece of steel is a much better option. It will last forever and you won't have to worry about it breaking out while you are driving down the highway, dumping all of the coolant out of the motor.

Welding cast iron hardens the surrounding metal. You will end up with soft metal joining hardened metal, over time, it will fatigue and crack, leaving you with more work or a destroyed part altogether. I highly suggest that in this situation, to pin it. If it were cosmetic, where the intergity of the overall part is not in jeopardy, sure, go for the weld, but I wouldn't risk the entire engine. case in point- I have a 1963 Joy air compressor powered by a Continental 4-cylinder

There are all kinds of products out there for welding cast iron- muggy weld, flame spray welding, etc. They work for their intended purpose, but when it comes to an engine block or cylinder heads, welding is not the best answer.

Electric welding can (and in most cases, will) cause spot hardening of the cast iron, PERIOD. The only way to effectively weld cast iron requires high-heat oven welding, where the block would be preheated to 900 degrees (the entire block, not just a section of it) and that is for gas welding, otherwise it needs to be preheated to 1300 degrees. I don't know of any machine shops or welding shops that have that capability, much less in a garage.

I didn't say you can't weld it, just that it will eventually fail, and that is the simple truth.

 

Use the pink tip Eutectic rods (forget the #). Work best for me. 40-60 amps DC
Vee the crack out really well, use a carbide burr or file, grinding disc embeds glass in the cast iron, you'll have bubbles.
Preheat just enough to get the chill out of the parent metal, weld 1/4" at the time, immediately peen the weld with a chipping hammer to stress relieve the weld. Don't let the parent metal get too hot! If you can't hold the back of your hand on the surrounding metal, it's too hot, walk off.

Others have different methods, that's cool too.