!961 Dodge Dart

Hey guys, I'm getting my Desoto back from paint within an hr.!!!! We worked 24/7 for the last 6 weeks bringing her back to life! I will have photos up soon. Please let me know your thoughts! I've also have a question. How rare is this car? I've never seen another coupe for sale anywhere???????

Here's my other question. I have a 61 Dart in my shop. We did a full disc brake conversion along with changing the master from single to dual. My problem is this. I have zero pedal! It's like the pedal isn't even hooked up. I've got the right master on it. It's new and off a 68 Dodge dart and is ment for a manual disc brake set up. There are no leaks in the system. Everything is dry!!!! I've bench bleed the master 3 times along with bleeding the system several times. I also have an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear with no leaks. I am stumped to say the least!!!!! I would love any suggestions.........

 

Is this a power disc brake setup, or manual discs?
If power, you may have some issues between the booster and the master cylinder. I seem to recall there being a difference in pushrod lengths.

Roger

 

Are you sure the calipers are on the right sides of the car, If not the bleeder screw can be on the bottom of the cylinder, and no amount of bleeding will get the air out. Don't ask me why I know this.

 

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? If not, you could still have air trapped there.

What are the disk brakes off of? And is it disks all around, or the stock drums in the back?

The bore diameter of the master cylinder is VERY important, and has to be matched to the brakes very closely. I just found this out converting a '55 Coronet to a dual master cylinder. I initially used a '71 Dodge dart 1 1/32" master to start off with, thinking it'd be ok (might be the same as a '68). Never got anything unless I pumped the pedal, no brakes until the 2nd or 3rd stroke. Switched to an 1 1/8" master, no problems. Great pedal, 2" off the floor, better than the stocker.

Also note, Dart's had two sizes of master cylinder, 1 1/32", and 15/16". If you've got the smaller one, that very well could be the problem.

 

This has been discussed at length over on the FordwardLook site.

You need an adjustible push rod. When going from OM to a DB conversion, Kit/piece together/homemade/whatever, the OM push rod is NOT long enough for the dual pot MC's

 

Oh BTW. The person with the '61. They don't have an extra pr of gravel shields or a rear bumper guard, do they?

I'll trade a '60 NY'er wall art for those!

 

I don't know what kind of discs you are using but I do know that the rears for GM have to be adjusted most likely other brands as well. Have you adjusted the rears?

 

On my '60 Plym I had to shorten mine.

 

So I called the manufactor of the master (cardone) explained to him what was going on. He stated to me that master was right for the disc brake set up. Here is a list of the parts I used.
Rotor (2) 1977-89 Dodge Diplomat (48)85566 BD60463 7032R <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Caliper, LH 1994-99 Dodge Ram ½ ton SE4850 TQM25002 RC4418<o></o>
Caliper, LH 1994-99 Dodge Ram ½ ton SE4851 TQM25003 RC4417 <o></o>
Hose (12&#8221 1979-90 Electra front 36846 F106887 BH36846<o></o>
Hose (15&#8221 1979 <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comffice:smarttags" /><st1:City w:st="on"><st1lace w:st="on">Seville</st1lace></st1:City> front 36845 F98912 BH36845 <o></o>
<o> </o>
<o>After talking to the tech I bench bleed the cylinder again, checked for leaks, then I decided to crawl under the car and re bleed (Had one of my employees bleed last time) So I start at the rear pass., look up and see a broken off bleeder screw with no leak. This kid is a snot rag!!!!!!! I still think even though the bleeder screw was broke and not leaking it wouldn't cause this problem????? </o>

 

How do you bleed that one if it's broke?

 

If the broken bleeder isn't the issue, check the push rod length. i had the same issue in the past. The slightest difference in length can cause a major issue.

 

After talking to the tech I bench bleed the cylinder again, checked for leaks, then I decided to crawl under the car and re bleed (Had one of my employees bleed last time) So I start at the rear pass., look up and see a broken off bleeder screw with no leak. This kid is a snot rag!!!!!!! I still think even though the bleeder screw was broke and not leaking it wouldn't cause this problem?????


If it´s broke, no bleeding, if not bleeding the longest brakeline, not much pedal </O

 

ive just cracked the brake line loose before in a similar situation and bleed to that point to see if i could get pedal. might try that to see if it helps

 

Not sure if my problem is the same, but it sure sounds similar. I took a single-pot master off my 58 Belair and put a dual non-power master on for 4 wheel drums. I was told to install 10-pound residual valves in-line from the master before they t-off to the wheels, otherwise I'd get one good brake shot and then would have to pump em to get the pedal hard again. I've done all this but am having grief with the front right grabbing real hard. deciding to bleed the brakes more I found the wheel cylinder leaking (brand new) on this particular wheel. Replacing it tonight...stay tuned. These residual valves may be the fix you need unless your master has them built in. My 2 cents.