Why is one flare nut on pre-fab brake lines longer?

I was wondering this a couple weeks ago.

 

Same here...

 

I have asked around, nobody seems to have any idea.

 

I've been curious about that, too. I've never seen an application that calls for the long flare nut, but it forces you to buy a short one if you want your work to look neat. Maybe that's the rationale for putting that damn long nut on there.

 

Yeah, good question! That always bugs the piss outta me trying to put that long one where it looks the least crappy.

 

Yeh, what gives?

 

x10. always wondered that myself

 

on some wheel cylinder they need to be longer so you can get a wrench on them.

 

Some older cars needed the longer nut when threaded into the wheel cylinder. Every once in a while I have come across a 50's or older car that the short end bottoms out on the hex before the line is tight.

 

I have seen the need on deeper cut M/C..........................

 

For me the answer came easy, the long flare nut goes to the wheel cylinder, make it easier to install around all the protrusions on the backing plate. Using the shorter one at the wheel is hard to get a wrench on.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it

What do I win?

 

A lot of the larger trucks have wheel cylinders that require a long flare nut to seat in the cylinder.

 

One thing about the longer nuts, they support the brake lines better. If there are any sections of a brake line layout where there is a fairly long span between a line joint and a frame mounting clip the long nuts can be your friend because in this situation if a short nut were used the line would be more susceptible to a fatigue failure at the flair.

 

You guys were faster at typing than I was

 

it's all in the wrist

 

I'll really sleep better tonight knowing this, thanks fellas!

 

I call BS, an extra 1/8 inch supports a long run better?

 

I always was told that if you needed to put a coupling on a line, use the long threaded flare nut at the coupling. At least that's what I was told the long one was for.

 

The MOPAR guys know the answer, the MOPAR wheel cylinders are drilled and taped deeper therefore the nut has to be longer to seal flare.

 

Ummmm........it's cheapy universal do all don't care what it looks like if it don't work throw it away oops i f ed up oh well it kinked gotta get more thank god i didn't do that in stainless made in third world country so it can be sold anywhere in the world but won't fit my applacation is either one half inch to short or two inches to long after it was bent needed the other threaded end to work better enginered product. Why else would they do that?

 

Some wheel cylinders,the line is difficult to get a wrench on,the longer nut makes a little easier. My 2 cents worth,only been doing it for 50 yrs.

 

Can`t say as I`ve ever ran into that problem but there`s always a first time.

 

I like Marvin's answer. The simplest answer is usually right.

 

Yeah, that bleeder can get in the way fast with the short nut.

 

Longer thread in the master cylinder necessitates a longer thread on the flare nut.

I've never bought pre-fabbed brake lines though.

 

Okay, but how many use a LINE on a front wheel cylinder?
Hose, yes. Line?
I know there are some applications where there are 2 wheel cylinders, hence a line. But how many have lines to a single wheel cylinder?

 

I think we have a winner!

 

The larger ones are easier to find after your reflare the line and note the fact that you forgot to put it on the line before reflairing.

 

Makes the fluid flow more better