Hot Rods 63 galaxie build thread

Here shortly I am going to begin tearing into the engine for a new intake and cleaning up the engine bay. Then new brake booster ect. I will take pics along the way throughout the way. I have already done a lot of work to this car since I have got it.
This is what it started like. I'll post up a current motor pic before I tear it down today and see what I have to work with.

 

The second is showing how far they are adjusted

 

IS that a 390 Pie Pie? What brake booster are you planning on using? I love the 63 1/2 hardtops!

 

Well I guess they thought that a little paint didn't didn't affect the sealing of the intake as well as no rtv on the front and rear cork gaskets

 

Boo

 

Those are Crane rocker arms, very nice pieces. The poly lock on the adjusters is nice, but can be kind of tricky when trying to lash a solid lifter cam. Your push rods are way too short though. Looks like they need to be 3/8 to 1/2 inch longer. Ideally, you should have 2 or 3 threads hanging out the bottom of the bottom of the rocker. Once you figure out what length you need, give Smith Brothers a call and order up some new ones. Spendy, but very high quality, and speedy service. If you are planning to change the cam, you may want to wait until you have the new cam installed, as the base circle of the cam will have an effect on teh push rod length dimension.

Just saw your new post. You will definitely be changing the cam.

 

Yup.

 

What do you mean disturbing airflow?
Thanks!

 

Thanks a bunch. I like these style cars alot. I like your air cleaner.

 

I want a tear drop hood but now I gotta decide if I should tear the engine because of the chance of metal being in the bearings from the bad cam and lifters.

 

Drain the oil, drop the pan and see what you have in there for metal bits.

How's the oil pressure?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

 

I just dropped the pan to replace the oil pump shaft when the clip to the old one fell off about a week ago.

 

bunch of guys over on Speedtalk have mentioned a measurable loss on the dyno with those tops as well. BUT, that doesnt always translate to a power loss on the car. For instance, dyno testing with an air cleaner element usually does NOT show a loss on the dyno, but in my experience, with most hood scoops, track testing with an air cleaner element vs a well shaped base with no element, will usually translate into a measurable, repeatable mph loss with the air cleaner element in place. I would think that lid will NOT work well with a flat hood with no scoop, but if I had one of those on a car with a sealed hood scoop on it, I would do some track testing prior to pitching it.

 

Car is going to be down awhile now. Gotta get some money for parts

 

Story of my life...

 

The 62 and up Galaxie's were a real prime car. The factory built up some Special Edition cars with the FE 390, 406 and also a top oiler 427. All had the tell tale hood bump to allow the top end room to fit. they were all fast cars. In the hands of the right driver and tuned to perfection they were a tough car to beat in 1/4 mile Drags. That was a very strong block. I do remember the Kalitta Drag car came out with a 427 side oiler with a lot of modifications in it and he took over the top eliminator spot for several weeks in a row.
Normbc9

 

What does it mean that the end of the cam was rubbing like that?

 

Got it out. 0.40 it says on the pistons. Cylinder walls look great.

 

In response to your cam question, how is the rear cam plug installed? Cup facing out or cup facing in?

 

Just like the rest of the freeze plugs

 

Your cam plug is in backwards. Should have the flat side facing out.

 

Don't lose any sleep over the filter lid. I have repeatedly tested them on the dyno and found them to be within a horsespower or two either way - never a big change.

 

I'm not too worried about the lid. Just the bottom end at this point

 

I figured that was why the cam has wear on that end. Just like Barry said, the cam plug is in backwards. I have seen a lot of FEs like this.

 

Well tomorrow I will get the trans pulled and dropped off at the shop and get the rods pistons and crank so I can get it to the machine shop. I am thinking of putting arp rod blots in but it mat not be necessary. Monet is the problem but I'm doing some paint work on a truck for money in-between fixing the car.

 

arp rod bolts are relatively cheap insurance, i wont build a motor without them

 

Well the engine and trans is pulled. Oil pump was trashed when I pulled off the cover. Pulled a rod cap and a few mains and look great. No signs of metal in the bearings. The rods have been reconditioned. The crank is .010 both and has .040 pistons with valve reliefs. No lip on the cylinders but two cylinders were washed I was told. They were pretty shinny compared to the rest. Guess I'm going to finish tearing it down and clean it up an reassemble. Once I figure the compression I will choose a cam. It had a crane hmv272 cam.

 

Is that the way that should be installed?

 

Wrong way for an FE. It should look like it's backwards compared to the other core plugs. And, it's a special one with a different sealing edge on it. Not just a plug put in differently.

 

Thanks for the heads up. Can I get just that one special one or do I need to buy the whole set to get it?