What do I do.. Bought a truck painted with rustoleum. Do I have to strip it all?

Just bought a 65 Chevy C10 for a daily driver. The entire truck has been sprayed flat black with rustoleum rattle can. I do not want the truck flat black, I want it flat white with a red metal flake roof etc.. I have alot of other coals in the fire and really didnt want it to turn into such a project. Is there anything I can do to accomplish this without striping the whole truck. My wife has a while into the roof with 80 grit on a DA and really didnt get very far.. Please help

 

Yep paint strip it .It will be easier to finish that way....

 

Yup. Rustoleum will have to come down to bare steel if you want the next coat to look good.

 

Yeah, Like they said. Time to hire a stripper!

 

Unless you paint the next coat in enamel as well.

 

Not what I am wanting to hear!!

 

use 80 grit on a single action sander with a soft pad backing, its the bees knees!

 

Yeah, a stripper and your wife....
See how that works out for ya

 

I don't know about flat black rustoleum but I've seen quite a few aerosol paints that get gummy as crap if you try to sand them. Good news is that a good chemical stripper should break it right down like nothing.

 

Rustoleum is a fish oil base. The solvents in typical automotive paint are much too aggressive for that substrate. The paint will peel the rustoleum right off like a chemical stripper. All the rustoleum needs to be taken off, the body down to bare steel, and start over. Sorry if that's not what you wanted to hear, but sometimes the truth hurts

 

If you can afford someone to soda blast it, that would do the trick!

 

Only their Rusty Metal Primer has fish oil in it. It works only on rusty metal; the fish oil soaks into the rust. It won't work on clean metal. The fish oil stays on the surface and wreaks havoc with any top coat.

 

If you go the chemical stripping route be aware that it will also eat away at any bondo under the surface.

 

So much for your traditional cheap paint jobs. What a fuck'n mess that'll be

 

80 grit? Hell. 36 -40 grit, just becarefull not to dig in to the metal. It's a pain in the ass job but should only take a weekend.
Do it right, do it once. Time well spent.

 

Back in the 60's I found that a layer of water based house paint over enamel stopped lacquer thinners from bubbling up the enamel paint so I could lacquer over enamel. From memory I let the water based stuff dry for a week before putting lacquer over the top.

Another isolating layer that I think should work is shellac, the alcohol that the shellac is dissolved in won't affect enamel but the shellac will prevent lacquer thinners getting into the enamel.

could be worth some experimenting

 

I wonder if it would be worth messing with something intended for graffitti removal to try to pull the spraycan stuff off, then clean it up and seal it and go with your new paint? I'm thinking that being spraybombed it won't have eaten into the stock paint much of any to need to go all the way through whatever factory paint is left. Assuming there's something left.

I mean you're going flat white on it, so if you do have to go back and redo a spot it won't be hard to blend in... just hold off on the flake job until you're sure you won't have any new problems.

 

this is what i was thinking also, or try lacquer thinner on a rag, it might just wipe off.

 

i agree!!!all you have to do is soak a rag in lacquer thinner and start wiping.to make it easier put some in a bucket so you can keep using it and ring the paint out of the rag.i have done this more than once and its pretty easy,and deff.better than using a stripper!!!!

 

There are also non shellac alcohol based primer sealers used for fire restoration that apparently work on metal, plaster, wood yadayada.

 

More info http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=574239

I'll let you know what I figure out

 

i use 60-80 grit on a 7 inch variable buffer, it will take it down to bare metal in no time. far faster than DA'ing it

 

This is a running and driving truck, just wanted to change it from flat black, soda blasting I think would be out of the question at this point. I thought about the chemical stripper but there is bondo in it and I didnt want it to eat away at that.. Cant believe Im considering this but what if I were to just strip the roof of the rustoleum paint, paint the metal flake on the roof, tape the roof of then spray with a gun some rustoleum flat white.. Any thoughts? Here is a crappy pic of the truck..

 

give it a try you have nothing to loose.

 

i know its an old thread, but how did you solve this?
I once used a can of black brush paint on the trunk and suspension components w/out knowin it was oil based.
The day i rebuilt the suspension and fixed the trunk i wa in for a surprise!
The 80 grit sandin disk would choke up in seconds, and the wire wheel kinda the same.
I had to grind it off w/ a grindin wheel, the smooth it w/ the sandin disk, and finally pass the wire wheel to make it nice and even.
Now i read the label carefully b4 buying or using ANY paint.

 

Id say just use rustoleum flat white on top of the black, cant hurt to try..