Wow! Just a KILLER build! Those Classic Instruments does killer work too! Did they kill you on the price for the custom gauges? Are those curved glass, also?
Talk with John McLeod at Classic Instruments. He helped me with the gauges from bezel, lens and background choices. He was extremely easy to deal with, and the product is great. Those are curved glass. I think Classic Instruments is one of the only (maybe only?) companies that manufactures their gauges in the US.
I've been working on fitting the hood the past couple of days. Just curious - what are some typical gap measurements? I'd like to keep it tight, but I don't want to drive any paint issues later. Once I have the front sheetmetal where I want it, I'll mount the radiator in its final spot.
On all the cars we build we strive for a paint stick width gap in bare metal before paint. Seems to be about right after the paint buildup. I try and keep this consistent thru the hood, doors, and deck lid if possible.
Well I took Gary's advice and set the gaps at the width of a paint stick. Once everything was gapped and lined up, I crawled underneath and tacked the radiator mounts in place. Since I'm running a flat crossmember, I have a slightly shorter radiator. I made some "pedestals" from 1 1/2" round stock - those being the pieces I tacked in place. I drilled and tapped them 3/8-16, and ran a stud down in place. Next on the list are shock mounts and then onto the floor....
they are a bit close, but I need to swap in some other axles with the correct offset for my lincoln brakes. They'll move outboard about 7/8"
I got a chance to roll the car outside today - it definitely was nice to stand more that 10 feet away from it. Here's a few photos:
Cory, that thing is looking killer man! I love what you did with the trans and ladder bar mounts. Stance is dead on perfect! Matt
Anyone finding fault with this one ought to have his eyes examined. Definitely a killer build. Keep it coming. Frank
Very nice. I like your front shocks with the rounded top and flared skirt. Could you give a source for them?
great looking build..that "fit up" stage is a long and interesting part of building a car..I enjoyed it a lot. Looks like you are too! Quick note on the steering..My 32 Roadster has a 39 steering box, and the draglink is parallel to the tierod in all planes..so it is do-able. I cannot fit aftermarket cylinder heads due to the proximity of the steering shaft past the head, and the Box is inset into the rail about an inch, its all compromises..you are right about that. I dont know if your setup induces bump steer..but it does increase the effective steering ratio somewhat, expect to be wheel twirling a fair bit when parking!
I got the front shock mounts all squared away today. I'm running some of the shorty F1 mounts, and as mentioned before, So-Cal's shocks. I just need to get the rear mounts fabbed and that'll complete the chassis.
I just found and read this thread.....Cory I met you a few years ago at the KC world of wheels....Your roadster is sweet, For those who have concerns about his steering setup...He is fully aware of what it will drive like as here are a couple of pics of his 34 pickup I took at the show with the same steering setup......Also I wanted to point out As I am sure alot of readers are unaware......Cory is a young guy, And very talanted..(and I'm talking like student Young...LOL)..I couldn't believe it when I was checking out his truck at the show and he walks up to it and gets inside.....At first I thought this truck must belong to his dad or something, But after talking to him about it for awhile I realized he built it....And is just a very talanted youg man....I can't wait to see what the roadster will look like finished...
That thing is killer! The stance is dead on. Fine craftsmanship. I dig the engine mounts and the Navaro speed equipment rocks!
I've been working on the hood latches and headlights the past few days. The latches are original '32s. The fronts are in their normal spot, but for the back I modified the wire and mounted the pad to the side of the frame rail rather than doing a 90 degree bracket. For the headlights, I wanted to keep the stock spacing but not have a bar across. I started with a repop'd bar and cut the ends off just past the cups. I mounted those to the rail, and bent the arms where I needed them. After that, I tacked the center bar back in place, final welded the cups, and cut the bar out. I still have a little more welding left on the mounts, and a lot of grinding.
Cory, you wanted the stock measurements from firewall to radiator shell for a good non-paint chipping clearance---Here's mine---Works good. At top 32.5 inches, at side moulding 33.5 inches. Looking forward to seeing your finished project!---Meanwhile, enjoying the great craftmanship in your build. Keep up the good work----Don
Thank you for this! While I do not have something this old, I have been a fan for many years and always wondered WHY do they always put the little flat plate out for the rear hood latch on fenderless cars ?!?!? This IMHO, looks FAR better!! One big "atta boy" from me! Keep up the great work!!
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