hard starting when warm

what causes a hard starting situation? i have a 62 impalal w/ 327. i have installed a 600 cfm edelbrock and set the timing to 10 btdc as the manual says. When the car is cold it will fire up quickly but if i stop for gas or run in a store it is very hard to restart. it just cranks over and over. it dosent matter if i give the car gas or not. i dont think it is vapor lock because i am only leaving the car for a min. or two max. and it is not running overly hot. Once it fires it runs great. Any tips?

Second question my 53 plymouth will fire within a sec or two of turning the key every time. What causes some cars to crank longer than others?

 

Hot starter is it not?

 

those edelbrock carbs are prone to heat soak when the motor is warm. Use a phenolic spacer between the manifold and the carb and it will cure your problem. I had the same thing happening with my car when I put my edlebrock carb on with no spacer.

 

the speed of the cranking dosent slow down so would it be the starter?

 

Is it getting full 12v to the coil when starting? Sometimes the "hot shot" wire doesn't make connection at the solenoid, or even inside the solenoid. That makes a lot of difference to how it starts hot. The starter uses a lot more of the battery's capacity when everything is hot, leaving less for the ignition. Put a voltmeter on the coil and hit the key, it should have full 12v.
You can do a "quick and dirty" check with a jumper wire. Just hot wire it and hit the starter, if it fires up quicker, there's your problem.

 

tonight i killed it coming in to my driveway by accidently leaving it in 3rd and trying to climb the hill. and could barely get it to start right after. Could heat soak cause that, that quickly?

 

yes it will act just like that. Mine did too. It will run fine when running but turn it off and try to start it again right after and it would crank for a little while then fire up. added a spacer and all is well.

 

Mine, too. Installing a phenolic spacer helped.

 

do you have headers?...if they are close to the starter they can heat up the starter to the point it'll drag over, a heat sheild or started wrap will help this...

 

coil heating up can also be a hot start issue, but it sounds like the carb spacer is more likely here with the running good after it starts...

 

yes,check this

 

I had coil do that also. I went to buy an engine and it would turn over but not catch. The old guy says wait a sec. He went into the garage, grabbed a CO2 fire extinguisher, placed his hat over the carb and built up a pile of snow on the coil from a long blast. He said hit it. I hit the key and it started right up.

Get a known good used coil and give it a try.

If it cranks and cranks you can rule out starter heat soak.

If you see wisps of vapor coming from the carb as soon as you shut it off, it probably is flooding. Floor it and hold it to the floor while you crank. If it starts then you know it is a fuel flooding problem.

A few simple tests can eliminate a lot of goose chasing.

I don't believe in throwing new parts at it hoping you find it.

 

Like (Tommy) said. Had a 50 Olds Acted like that. Was a bad coil. Good Luck !!

 

The heat problem with the carburator causes the fuel in the carburator to boil out and flood the motor when it is shut off, or at least that was the case for me. When you go to start it and the motor is flooded, put in a spacer. If not, try the coil.

I put in a spacer on a 383 Chrylser with edelbrock and it helped some but still does it. When warm, the motor will flood when shut off. If I turn it off and immediately start it back up, it will start. Needs a minute or two to flood.

I have a Holley on a 300 Ford and it does it also. I do not have a spacer on that one yet.

Neal

 

I was just trying to figure this out on my car. Shut the car off, and poke your head under the hood. You can hear the carb percolating within a few moments, and it will be cold to the touch.

I am shopping a spacer right now for mine

 

did you ever get the spacer on there? How did it work?

 

sometimes high resistance circuits do this also....so clean all the grounds and critical wiring connections

 

Traveling cross country with 3 others, guy with '40 sedan 350/350 at every gas stop, would not crank with hot motor after fueling.
We used a squirt bottle of water on starter motor, It cooled enough to crank each time this occured. He replaced starter with a "high tech" one after returning home & that ended the problem.-------Don

 

Im willing to bet his issue was cured by that carb spacer. I was just wondering. His symptoms he listed had nothing to do with the starter not spinning.

 

Carb heat soak is a problem as soon as airflow through it stops once the engine stops running. Chances are fuel is already percolating inside it even when the engine is running.
Insulating gaskets and spacers are a must, but think about getting some air circulation around the carb and intake, like raising the air cleaner higher which may be holding heat in around it. Hood scoops and outside fresh air openings don't hurt either if they are practical.
Tom S. in Tn.

 

Old ignition cicuit wiring. My 58 did this years ago when I first put it on the road. A lot of guys neglect wiring harnesses when restoring a car. Copper gets old an brittle. Add engine compartment heat and resistances change. I replaced the harness from the ignition switch to the starter and never looked back.

 

Today's formulated gas???? Try an octane adder....

 

The spacer cured my issue. I was running an open hood, so the "underhood temperatures" was not an issue. Put in the Edelbrock spacer that Edelbrock sells, and the perocation stopped on my car.

 

THANK YOU! I just ordered mine about 10 minutes ago. Part #8711. The one with the holes in it.

 

havnt got the spacer on there yet. Its on the to do list.

 

I used this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9266/ they do have one without the center divider. It depends on your manifold

 

Reading this thread, I had the same problem with hard starting after a cruise. I checked the stock fuel pump and it was pumping 7 lbs. I tried a new fuel pump (stock) and it was even higher, so I added a pressure regulator, set for 6 lbs. I then installed an isolation plate under the carb. I drove around for awhile, then let the car sit for 15 minutes or so and she started fine. I tried 30 minutes, she still started fine. Edelbrock said optimum fuel pressure was 6 lbs.

My mechanic says, the boiling point of fuel has been dropping recently and he sees more and more vapor lock.

 

Sticky choke maybe? I've had a choke linkage bind and had hot starting issues.

 

check your timming, too far advance makes hot start problems.

 

I trust the OP either figured it out by now or gave up. It can be a combination of things and timing can be a contributor. 10* may be a lot, think the spec on that 327 is 4*BTDC.

Bob