Does it matter which T5 I buy for an early(1956) SBC? I would just like it to bolt right up with out an adapter. Thank you.
All small and big block Chevy's use the same bellhousing bolt pattern. It is shared with the following: GM Vortec 4300 90° V6 GM Iron Duke RWD inline 4 (Early RWD Variants, later versions may use a FWD pattern, and have two possible starter locations) Jeep with GM Iron Duke inline 4 2.5L/151 in³ (1980-1983). These use a Chrysler custom Torqueflite 904 automatic transmission with an integral Chevrolet bellhousing. Do not confuse with later AMC 2.5 L engine that uses GM small corporate pattern. Chevrolet Inline 6 (1963 on) Chevrolet 153 Inline 4 (Chevy II, pre-Iron-Duke) The Camaro's had a weird bellhousing and tail shaft that kicked the tranny over at an angle, but they did use the World Class (Stronger ) T5 in them after 1988. The best and strongest set up then is a 88 or newer T5 from a Camaro with a 4.3 liter bellhousing and an S-10 tailshaft.
I have a 1959 283 that I'm putting a T5 behind. I picked up a pre 1962 cast iron bellhousing that does not have mounts on the side, so I can use the '59 starter that bolts to the bell and not the block. I also have a flywheel and pressure plate for a 10" clutch. I can post pics if you need them. Everything is sitting on the garage floor waiting assembly. The question I have is, what do I (we) order for a clutch disk? 14 spline I believe, 10" dia.
If you want it to just bolt up, with no modifications, use a 3rd generation GM F body V8 T5. Well, almost bolts on -- you will have to drill out the mounting holes to 1/2" Bob
Thank you. It sounds like just getting a late model T5 and drilling out the mounting holes to 1/2" will be the way to go.
Speedway Motors has them. 10" , 1"-14 spline. Part number 910-15641. There's other sources. I Just happen to have their catalog on my desk. Bob
That's good to see speedway carring that. It saves trying to deal with locals who want to know the VIN. You need to peruse some of the other T-5 threads and get the rest of the story on simple mods to the trans to fit in any Chevy. Drill out mounting flange bolt holes to 1/2 inch. Maybe taling 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the pilot nose. Maybe shorten the bearing retainer where the throwout bearing rides. You need to test fit each step of the install to ensure everything fitting right without interfearance. Frank
I must warn you that while I used no adapter , some other modifications had to be made. Shorten the pilot shaft, shorten the bearing collar, and on mine I had to extend the splines on the input shaft. This comes up about once a week and there are several threads on the subject. Search for posts by member Snarl as a start. *edit* looks as if we were typing at the same time gaspumper!
I am using a Camaro/Firebird T5 (non world class) from an '84 V8 donor car. I installed a same year tailshaft from a 4 cyl S10 (also non world class, which moved the shifter forward on the trans, positioning it better in relation to my bench seat). I then used the clutch, flywheel, and bellhousing from a 1980 Z28, which gave me an 11" clutch. This was all installed behind an '84 SBC which has the older style 2 piece rear seal. If an earlier poster is correct, then this entire system should be a bolt-in for the early block (although I believe that some of the '50's cars used engine/trans mounts that were located on the bellhousing itself ... changing to a later bellhousing like my '80 Z28 would eliminate the ability to mount the engine as it was originally). As mentioned ... I also had to drill out the four trans case-bellhousing bolts to 1/2" and use cap screws for the top two holes because of trans case rib interference. Also, this was a true bolt on deal for me ... because I used a trans from a V8 car I did not have to shorten the input shaft or anything else. I love it ... I get overdrive but do not have to deal with torque convertor lockup issues, throttle valve cable adjustments, tranny cooler lines etc. Don't forget to install a pilot bushing (a fresh one might be a good idea if your car is equipped with one now). Search T5 here on the Hamb, there is a fantastic post with every little thing you need to know.
I too used a NWC from a 80's Camaro and an S10 tailshaft with cable driven speedo in my 55 with a 79 350 and an original side mount bell, (no cap screws used)..................bolted right up, no issues.....no need for a trans mount with this set up either, I went from a Saginaw 3 spd. just had to shorten drive shaft about 3" and she's was good to go, even used the same yoke ................ Best mod to date
Thanks! I didn't have another tranny like a 4 speed to measure off of and it seemed like 3/4" was thrown around on some other thread but that sounded like a lot if the input shafts are only 1/4" difference in over all length. I also haven't purchased a flywheel and clutch yet either which I'll do before hacking mine up.
"Why cut it at all"? .... My thoughts exactly ... from your original post it appears as though you have not bought a trans yet ... if you buy one from that originally came from behind a Chev V8, you don't/shouldn't/won't need to cut anything at all ... open up the 4 holes to 1/2" and bolt her up (although you will need to change the two top bolts to "cap screws" because a regular bolt will interfere with the body of the trans). Don't cut anything unless you have to.
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