Well... put a new valve cover on my car and changed the oil after sitting unstarted since December. After a few minutes of running it started knocking. Not like a brick in a dryer, but more like a rod knocking. It's a Ford 170, worth fixing? Excuse to go over to a 289 or 302? Just spent whatever money I had on metal and that valve cover. Now what? I could sell some stuff and get a cheap motor. What would that entail as right now that 170 is mated to a crappy Ford-O-Matic. and I don't see too many motors mating to such a weak transmission. Like I said -----> LOW LOW FUNDS. Advice is needed here. What would you do if you could scrape up $600? Rebuild kit? Cheap motor? Cheap motor and trans? I really like my 62 Fairlane. I know you guys wont steer me wrong.
Are you sure its a rod knock? start the motor and pull one spark plug wire at a time. If the noise goes away when you pull a curtain wire, the rod bearing may be bad on that cylinder. What does the oil pressure read?
I don't have an oil pressure guage. And I hate to say this, but I'm not talented enough to diagnose the problem. I went with what the others standing there when it happened said.
First of all, check to make sure the rockers arent hitting the new valve cover inside. Next, take a long screwdriver or piece of wood and poke around the block while its running, holding one end to your ear, you can isolate the sound that way.
Don't make Henry Ford roll over in his grave. Keep your Ford all Ford... I agree that too to check clearense between rockers to valve cover.
Jeezus, get off it- frikken ridiculous comment by a member of "The Great Brainwashed"- and attempting to pass the brainwashing downhill, like a legacy. Let the poor kid learn some basics instead of filling him full of rah-rah Chebbie BS If you have a noise that just started, and you made two changes just before that, pretty likely you'll find the problem if you backtrack. So, you'd check under the valve cover, and get someone to help you rig up an oil pressure guage and check the oil system- same as you'd do if the engine was blue, orange, black, or pink with purple polka dots- basics are basics
take the oil filter off and cut it open,pull out the paper and inspect between the folds for metal. If no metal is in the filter its something on top of a piston maybe. I had a screw fall out of a carb on a 170 once and got stuck in the piston,knocked like crazy,the head comes off of a 170 in an hour..
A loose chunk of carbon could do this (it happened to me). If puttin' a SBC in it would make Henry roll over, he aint had much rest!
Just changed the valve cover over to the original and it still doing it. Uggghhhh! This old time Hot rodder (in his 70's), by my house said he's gonna come over tomorrow and take a peep. So, what if he says its bad... 302? 289? Rebuild kit? 70's Ford truck for donor?
Take it to a qualified mechanic one that you know and rust and find out what is wrong with it. Then I suppose if you are not qualified enough to figure out what is wrong with it you should probably tell him to fix it. Your other choice is to listen to the advice given here and try to learn how to do it yourself. Your question is like saying Gee my ashtray is full should I trade the car off. I mean hell if you want a V-8 you don't need an excuse just get one and go with it.
I don't know about Chicago, but around here we regularly see old (80s-90s) running and driving crown vics, gand marqies, town cars with 302s and AODs for anywhere between 500-1000 bucks. You could swap that drivetrain in, part the rest out, and get most of your money back.
yep, cars like yours came with 221 V-8 stock, which is the same basic block as a 260, 289, 302, so they will all bolt it. Hooking up an more modern trans is a little more work, but not that bad, and stuff is available to help. Still might be something simple, see what happens with your friend's help
Ahhh ..... don't take this the wrong way but ..... did you add the new oil after draining the old? Or did you add the new but forget to put the drain plug back in? (you wouldn't see the mess if your driveway is gravel and it also wouldn't show on your guage if you don't have one). Hasn't happened to me but it COULD happen and would certainly cause the sounds you are hearing. As far as changing over to an 8 cyl. You would be miles ahead if you bought a complete car, gives you engine/trans/larger rad/driveshaft/etc etc etc.
Saw a guy one time that was changing the oil on his GMC semi tractor with an 8V71 Screamer, when I walked in he was on top pouring it in, and the oil was out past both front tires- about 25 qts on the floor. Happens to the best
fuel pumps can rattle too. Go to harbor freight and spend less than 5 bucks for a mechanics stethescope and have alisten around the engine. Good Luck, Mike.
opportunity, is what's knocking! get some tools and rip that thing apart. if nothing else you will learn something.
I have been doing everything to this car by myself. For 2 years. Just me and shop manuals. It was a simple question. How else does one learn if not by asking when one can't find the answer through experience. Listen to the advice I did,I tried everything that was suggested here, but I had to ask in order to get the advice from more experienced people. I'm a barber. Do you cut hair? I bet you don't know the first thing about cutting hair or shaving. So I wouldn't get all bent out of shape if you asked. That's what this is all about. Asking and sharing. Take a pill and relax. I wasn't trying to offend anyone by asking for advice. Sheesh!
If it needs a motor and want to keep a six try to find a 200 and C-4 to drop in it,should be able to find one of those cheap and should bolt right in.
Hey Blades. these ford 6s have a habit of sticking lifters if the motor hasn't been run for a while. will sound like lower bearing is hammering. sold a 170 mustang than ran great when parked and hammer like a john deere when started for sale, a thin oil and slow warm up cleared lifter and ended problem....
Any old piece of hose held up to your ear, and the area you listening for the noise i.e. valve cover or oil pan works too. It may not be as well refined, but will definantly get you in the ball park.
You might want to look into whether a 250 will fit or not. I think I read somewhere that the 250 is too tall and will cause hood clearance issues with those early cars. I am not sure about this, but it is something you might want to look into before spending the coin on a 250.
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