Ok guys, I have a question that is.....well.................... Kind of inane. I need to know the tubing diameter (On and average) used in chassis like the Dragmaster and other chassis of the era. I have been searching but although I can find more photos than I can poke a stick at the measurements seem to be elusive. I don't need exact accuracy as this is so I can build some brass model chassis and near enough is good enough as once its scaled down to the likes of 1/8, 1/16 and 1/25 I will only be able to get 'near enough' on the tubing size. Sorry for asking this sort of thing here but I'm running out of options, either that or the intelligence to find it myself. Thanks, Doc.
Roll the head a couple degrees, you should get 16:1 easy; cam can go to .720 depending on what rod and cam centerline. Intake valve is a tad big and can shroud the chamber, i tried the 2.06, then 2.08 and 2.100 - the 2.100 didn't make more HP. Need tit. with the 2.100 because of the weight, likely need jesel as well with that big cam. For valve clearance you have to mockup and see, do not rely on any advice. It isn't that the person is trying to mislead you, there are so many combinations from piston pin height to lobe centers to how the cam is degreed on the crank and all of that is critical to valve-piston clearances.
kool, thanks! i figured we would have to get her assembled and gently spin by hand a few times and check it two or three times, once we get it right, should be ok...
Doc, contact the "KING" of Modeling IMHO (Does brass) Riceman here on the board. Here's a link I found and have saved for reference http://www.straightlinemodeler.org/rice.html Have Fun, Rocky
Just curious, how much dump are people running? I realize this depends on HP, wheelbase etc. but I'm just trying to get an idea of where to start. Is there any loose rule of thumb??
Can anyone tell me about the P+S company? Are any of their products (specifically steering related) based in anyway on ford parts? As much detail as possible would be greatly appreciated. No such thing as too much info here.
Actually why don't we just discuss steering systems in front engined dragsters and altered/funnys in great detail.
Here's several pictures of a Logghe chassis dragster body built by my buddy Al Bergler. One picture was taken today as they rolled it outside to move several cars around inside the shop.... Al is still going strong at 73! The guy in the photos is not Al. He's our friend,Jake. They will start it next week on gasoline just to make certain it will fire up and after the snow melts it will get it's first taste of nitro. That's Al's Motown Shaker funny car in the background. It's the original car that Al bought back and restored several years ago..... Mike
What i meant was how to set up, brands, how they work among other things. Detail man, i need detail. P.S. i'm having difficulty finding company links----SPE, P+S etc.
And the most important question all all-----Are these types of steering boxes and components in any way shape or form based on ford designs? i know the spindles are, but they wont be on my car.
What are you looking to do? It might be easier to get opinions if we had a good place to start. I used a SPE on mine - for the links I didn't like the idea of steel rubbing so I machined teflon bushings that fit inside the tube supports (they cannot fall out BTW). Admittedly it's overkill as most don't bother - but you build these things how YOU want 'cause it's your butt that sits on the pumpkin!!!
I was always told that the early P&S box was the first aftermarket steering box made for drag racing and patterned after the Ross steering box that was widely used in early dragsters & altereds. the ross box's were taken from crosleys the most but are the same as box's used in some early tractors & fork lifts. they were made of cast steel & later aluminum but they are weak box's that were originally just for light cars (ie-they work well for dragsters etc). Paul
The SPE box has been hard to get since Ken Cox passed away and the P & S is a swap meet item but both Strange Engineering and Flaming River have a clone and S & W race cars stock Gary Woods' Stiletto box. Use the pittman arm that comes with the box and the steering arms that come with the spindles (should be 5" king pin to holes for linkage). It you have less than 30 degrees caster (and you should) you can hook the drag link directly to the arm on the spindle, otherwise you will probably need a bellcrank set up. Roo
Everyone thanks for responding; This is what i'm talking about---detail. i'll be sitting slightly ahead of the pumpkin. This will probably give you a hint of what i'm trying to do 2) So, these boxes are basically based on forklift steering box designs? Because Ross took it from Crosley's design which, in turn, was taken or copied from forklift/tractors?
I have 2 crosley steering box's both are from '49-'52 and are made by and stamped "Ross", crosley just used Ross's they didn't manufacture them. Paul
Continued, PT.3: 1) If the chassis is going to be chromoly, would it be ok to tack everything together using mig and have someone else, namely a pro, finish up with TIG? Or does it have to be tacked using tig as well? As you can see, i don't know jack about welding even though i'm presently attending welding school. 2) Could we revisit the whole welding mild steel to chromoly in more detail? Does tig definitely have to be used if the area being welded is in front of the engine? 3) Finally if tig welding does the frame need to be "stress relived?"
(1) If you do tack it with a MIG the tacks need to be small and tidy and whoever TIG's it needs to TIG tack it at another point of the junction and then grind the MIG tack away (carefully) (2) Mild can successfully be welded to 4130 but any welding on 4130 needs to be TIG no matter where it is on the chassis. (3) No Roo
Hi all, I saw this Kellison body on ebay, thought someone might be interested... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kell...e_Car_Parts&hash=item4aa90f9c26#ht_632wt_1088
Those cycle wheels on the front, are only used to move the car around the pits, and facilitate getting it to the starting line. Tom S. in Tn.
After seeing what some people are currently doing in the name of nostalgia, vintage, etc; I thought about building a car out of muffler tubing with a plastic mock-up motor. At least I couldn't hurt anyone. Tom S.
What does the inside of a Ross box look like, are they a worm gear with a pin like the SPE box, or something with less friction like a worm and roller? The SPE is dammed hard to turn if there's any weight on the front wheels and I'm thinking of building something better but still small and race car sized.
PT.4 Use of saddle joints: What are your thoughts concering the use of saddle joints and aircraft clamps ONLY for the positions of the front motor plate and midplate(if i decide to even use one) instead of welded in tabs. 1) Basically, i want to experiment with engine placement; i want to get the engine as far back as possible because i'm planning on using aluminum heads. Then, and only then, after optimal engine placement is determined then weld in some tabs. Is this idea kosher in general? 2) Is this kosher per nhra/ihra rules? i couldn't find anything in the rulebook that said you couldn't do this.
Don't have a rule book handy, but if I remember right the motor plate has to be bolted. I was leary of the saddle and hose clamp deal but now have them on my blown motor. As far as using the saddles to be able to play with different motor positions, unless your top rail is perfectly parallel <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> to the pinion angle you will not be able to move the motor and still be in line.
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