Spring has sprung, lets get out and drive them. Here is the banger link list . For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info: Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498 Banger basics. another info link list: http://www.fordgarage.com/ http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480 Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=6 Elrod's stuck head tech: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487 Model A generator to alternator conversion: http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator: http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173 Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine" http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05 Chevy Banger Stuff http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465 http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/The-High-Speed-Internal-Combustion-Engine-Ricardo-1931 Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10 Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting. If anyone knows of more, please post them.
I you would like to see what the pieces look like go here!http://community.webshots.com/user/bosbill100
What are your guys' thoughts on the dual updraft manifold and 2 tillotson carbs? (Like the one MAC's sells) Is this as good performance wise as a downdraft set up? Thanks
Hey trestles126, is what your saying is that you greased the rear bearing in your new leakless water pump and now it leaks? I haven't greased a leakless pump so I couldn't tell you if it has a lock ring or something like that. Old hot rodder saying" If it don't go, get a bigger hammer" Usually, instead of lock rings or other devices mechanics just slide a bushing or collar over the shaft to hold location of the fan if the boss inside of the head is worn and the shaft drifts too much.
Hi guys! Noob FNG Rich here. Been having fun working on my 29 banger project bought from Hamb guy Joee. I am just jumping in here with a question. Hope that's OK I am buying a Lion head from another Hamb guy off the classifieds. He says I should use a B Model head gasket. Is this for piston clearance? I was just reading that care has to be taken with higher compression heads because of the pistons rising into them. It's only 6.25 to 1 so it's not a super squeezer. Thanks.
Thanks bill, i did get a bigger hammer but it'd starting to cave in the top of the shaft where the hole is drilled for the cotter key on the nut. Gonna try a press next it's probably like a ball joint just needs that perfect tap
Rich, The B gasket is to fit the combustion chamber shape. The shape is like a heart on a B. Yes you also have to look out for pistions that rise above the block deck height, it is very common .
Thank you. To check for piston problems is it as simple as turning the engine over and looking with the head off? If the pistons do rise above the block, does that make high compression heads unworkable or is there a fix?
rmak brjnelson is correct it is also because there is more meat between the cylinders with a b gasketa weak point with the a gasket if no clearance you can use a thicker gasket but this starts to defeat the reason to fit a higher compression head ie less squish area high lift pistons also raise the compression ratio however many high compression heads give a better flow design
March already and I had nothing to say last month either... Dropped a B cam off for grinding to go in my next engine for the full fendered T tourer I'm planning. Picked up a counterbalanced crank for my spare diamond B block too.
Hey, that is supposed to be a joke about the hammers! I always put a piece of softer material between the hammer and the end. Put the nut back on to support the threads until you break it loose. I once worked for a guy in a machine shop and he told me that it scared the s--t out of him when I walked by with a hammer in my hand.
You turn the engine over and measure the amount the pistons stick up over the deck or top of the engine block. J&E Pistons recommend .040 between piston and head but that is CYA and with most "A" you can get by with .030 to .035. I have run with .025. Here is the deal, A SBC piston can grow .035 when stressed , high RPM's and heat both contribute to that condition but I sincerely doubt you will get to that. A model"A" engine could have had .032+ popup new from the plant if all of the tolerances were taken to max so you will find some in any block then you throw in a decking or two and you have more popup. I installed a set of J&E pistons in my Winfield flathead and with a Best gasket that compresses to .060 I had .032 clearance and as this engine does get a little stressed I pulled the pistons and faced .012 off of each giving me the desired .040. I wrapped the rings with duct tape and held them in the three jaw chuck. I don't know anything about a Lion head other than they make a lot of power on paper.
Checking in fellas, sorry been off the grid for the last month moving. Still in Bako. Will be representing the Banger crowd at March Meets in a couple weeks. If any of you make it come say hello to me and my golf cart aka my coupe.-Weeks
It was the head gasket. The web between #1 & #2 was blown out. It's been fixed and is running again. .
Wow those combustion chambers are really clean. Forgive me Dan but is this the same B Diamond you have been running for the last few years? And how long has it been since you last had it apart before the failure?-Weeks
The roadster I just bought has a Westcott body with a 32 style dash. (I know..it's not real, but it's what I can afford right now). Since I'm building it in the old hot rod style, does anyone have any suggestions for gages and dash panel that might look good and not to modern? Thanks.
Yes, this is the engine that I've been running for the last few years. It has been together for about two years now. The head had some carbon build up, but I was also surprised at how "clean" it was considering how much blow by it has. It confirms my thought that it is running lean on the top end. It doesn't look like there has been any detonation though. .
Guys if you had water in the combustion chamber, even a little resulting steam will blow the carbon off pretty quick Sorry Dan but you may have only patched the problem for now Give me a call
Because the gasket failed between the two cylinders, no water went through the chambers. I agree I haven't fixed the problem. But, I like to experiment and because I don't have a bunch of money in this engine, I feel it is a good test bed. .
Hey guys, if this is not an appropriate question for the banger thread, and better asked among the general population, someone please let me know. I'm new and just feeling my way around this site. I got a lot to learn so I'll be asking a lot of questions. I just want to get it right. Thanks.
ok have a water pump question for you guys for 120 bucks im just gonna order a new one from snyders the end of the shaft is messed up and the nut banged up good. which one do you guys recommend? theres 2 on there the greaseless rear seal with no packing or the ball bearing updated front bearing with the greased packing plus additional teflon seal for backup? also i have a walker radiators stock replacement radiator, while reading the installation tips on snyders i saw they recommend grinding down the impeller 1/3? any thoughts
rmak, Not that your question isn't appropriate here, We mainly talk about the mechanical aspect of our cars. Not everyone on the Banger thread are into the "Style and Design" stuff that you will find on the main board. Maybe if you asked JP Bill, Bluto or some of the guys that have been building and driving hot rods for as many years as they have, " What gauges were in hot rods of the period you were looking to recreate?" You might get some answers. Asking what gauges would look good in your car is too personal of a question for me to answer. Some guys like the curved glass SW gauges. I think the stock '32 gauges would look good too. It all depends on what "period" you are looking for. .
Not sure which brands Snyder's sells, but steer clear of the Omega Leak-less water pump. I bought one when I rebuilt my engine a few years ago. It had around 2,500 mi on it when it developed a fair amount of end-play (1/4"+!!!) so I called the fella that makes them to ask about his "lifetime guarantee" he said to call back when the pump actually failed. I inquired if he was going to warranty my radiator as well and he responded no, just the pump. Lets see should I let my $120 (junk) water pump eat a radiator that will cost me $600 to replace just to get a new (junk) water pump? Don't think so. Luke
Crazzzzz Water can enter the engine in many ways. Blowing a gasket at the narrowest(weakest) place is not normally without some real cause. I think it's a good idea to find out why. Do you have a crack in the intake port? Did someone wash the car and get water down the carb? Drive in the rain? It's funny how driving on a foggy night can make the motor sound different at idle. You may have a leak that only opens when the motor is warm Is the block sleeved?
Sorry, but I can't help you with the purchase of a new pump as I would personally rebuild my old unit. Water pump castings are cheap. In my opinion you are better off rebuilding your own then you know what components are in it and can understand what works and why.
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