So, ive been asked BY several people about what part numbers are needed to install self adjusting brakes onto a 1928-48 ford front and rear axle. since i sold all my parts and started investing in a different project i dont have any recent pictures other then some old parts that i already sold. so here it goes. Alot of people want to convert there mechanical brakes to hydraulic...most people go with the more common 1939-1948 ford car and truck backing plates. WHAT most people dont know, is that starting in 1948 with the f1 pick up truck...Henry Ford began self energizing brakes. The good thing about f1 brakes is that MOST of the later parts interchange with later years....allowing you to install more modern brakes (SELF ADJUSTING!!!! no one wants to pull their wheels and drums off to adjust their own brakes, im i right???) Now, for the the front brakes you need 1948-1956 f1 backing plates (there the same style brakes (BUT THE HUBS AND DRUMS CANNOT INTERCHANGE between the f1 and f100) (parts and part #'s are all found at your LOCAL "AUTO ZONE") Brake shoes - 228 Wheel Cylinders - 33462 and 33461 All in one Return Springs and Hold Down clips kit - H7225 Self adjusting kit - H2540 and H2541 Now, these part numbers range from 1948-1970 they all retained the 11 x 2 in brake shoes, so your can make all the parts work. Also, some people prefer using the f2 1948-56 backing plates on the front....but i find those QUIT PRICEY!!! when i first started looking for a complete pair people were asking about $200 for just a complete pitted up core PLUS SOME! trust me, the f1/f100 brakes will work fine for the front...and its cheaper and easier to come by (well for now) Now, for the rear brakes...are a lil more trickery. The f1/f100 and f2 pick ups all had there e-brake on the DRIVE SHAFT! Now before i sold my project, i originally had f2 backing plates for the rear end set up (mounting holes and flange all fit perfectly and it cleared the spring perch) So first off you need f2 backing plates 1948-56 (some only had a single wheel cylinder piston, but you can also drill out the extra hole for the dual piston!) second, you need to go to a junk yard or a u-pull it yard. Find an old 70's or 60's ford f250 and pull off the brake equalizer bar and parking brake level Now, most of the f250's from the 70's had 12 x 2.5 inch brake shoes. Since the shoes remained the same in height (12inch ) your able to use the e-brake hardware on your 12 X 2 inch shoes Now for the part #'s you can also run all these part #"s at your local Auto Zone. Brake shoes - 33 Wheel Cylinders - 33077 and 33078 All in one Return Springs and Hold Down clips kit - H7139 Self adjusting kit - H2547 and H2546 Also, since these did not have an e-brake hole, you can either cut one out of an backing plate and weld it into your f2 backing plate...or you can buy a bolt/spot weld e-brake cable the part number to the e-brake cable is BENDIX #C1093...which im not sure if you can buy at auto zone...better luck at napa. Okay, now since im done giving out all my hard work to find how to make 1948-56 f1/f100/f2 backing plates self adjusting on your hot rod. please remember some modification might be required to making everything fit right. example, if installing f2 backing plates on a stock Model A rear end, you will need a wheel centric spacer to proper fit the drum. And, i am sure theirs a million other ways to put self adjusting brakes onto your hot rod, but this is the route i went....everything bolted up good.. And im not responsible if any of you screw up your own project! The only pictures i saved was my f2 backing plate that im shipping out tomorrow...parts on it were just for mock up....i never fully mounted it. its installed w/ 12 x 2 inch brake shoes w/ a self adjusting kit.
hopefully some of the old farts on here that arnt to familiar with using a computer would find these part numbers useful.
Also, for the fronts (since i only talked about the brakes and not the spindles to make it work) only the f1(1948-52) and earlier(1940-48) spindles will work an a 1928-48 axle. the f100 (1953-56) went to a larger kingpin diameter. If using 1940-48 spindles i would prefer square backs and you have to swap the the hub bearings to make the f1/f100 hubs fit them.
BTTT. Thanks for the info helped me alot. I am rebuilding my F1 brakes now and took them apart to paint without taking pictures ,I know, so I saved the pics. thanks for posting.
Does anyone have the numbers for the wheel cylinder plungers? Probably to fit the F-100, since the F-200 only had one and it might be different. I look online and can't find them. And it's better to walk into the store with part numbers nowadays.
i am missing some , so i spent a lot of time looking for them both online and at parts stores.... Mac's has them online , part # B7A-2042-A...i have not ordered them yet so i don't know if they really have them in stock. i believe that is a ford part number. crossing that at work i came up with special order only from Wagner. Napa had nothing let me know if you find anything
The shoe link that you need is Wagner nbr. F35524, Lee, Gibson nbr. H1414, also fits Lincoln Brakes. HemiDeuce.
OK, now for a really tough one: what's the PN for the top anchor bolt? It's also not listed on any online store catalogs I've seen.
tough, your best luck is just to go to the junk yard and look for old fords and mercurys...probably 70's and earlier.
what kind of bolts do i need to mount the cylinders to the backing plates,7/16" x 1 1/8" UNF or anything special?
From my notes: on '53-'56 F100 to Early Ford FRONT spindles. Round ones - I once did a '37 and know for sure they need some grinding on top of upper flange to clear. SWAP inner bearing to Timken, Bower, or Koyo #14116. And, seal to National #450461, or Chicago Rawhide #35461.
I have the complete front and rear drums off of my 1960 F100. Can the 1957 and up F100 parts be used for this conversion? I hear the bearing sizes are different but I didn't know if someone figured this out or not.
While '60 drums themselves along with the brake hardware is the same as pre-'57 stuff; the backing plate bolt pattern, offset, hub bearing diameter, and spacing is totally different and incompatible with early spindles
That is good information on the later model stuff. I'm surprised someone hasn't come up with a kit to adapter the later stuff since its probably easier to find.